Glow plug wires

[F2036]

I'm replacing the glow plugs in my B7100, the old wire between the glow plugs is aluminum and about 10 ga. and in sad shape. The old wires were mashed flat and wrapped around the glow plug terminal.
If I made new ones out of copper what guage wire should I use ?
Should I put terminals on the end of wires?

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jim

 

[85Hokie]

I'm replacing the glow plugs in my B7100, the old wire between the glow plugs is aluminum and about 10 ga. and in sad shape. The old wires were mashed flat and wrapped around the glow plug terminal.
If I made new ones out of copper what guage wire should I use ?
Should I put terminals on the end of wires?

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jim

IF IT was 10 ga alum - A piece of 12ga copper will suffice, then again - if you can get a piece of 10 ga copper that would work better! Here is an closeup picture, no terminals, just nicely bent loops.

 

[100 td]

The link between the terminals can be solid copper or aluminum, if using stranded copper, best to put crimp terminals on them. If original was 10G alum, 12 copper would do, but bigger is better so I would stick with 10 if you have it.
EDIT: And 85Hokie beats me to it!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Look at 85Hokie's picture, if it looks like that, that is factory.
It's just a solid aluminum wire with the flats on the ends.
If you do copper, no crimps just flatten the ends, do all of them and then after install spray with some paint to keep them from corroding and oxidizing.

 

[85Hokie]

I'm replacing the glow plugs in my B7100, the old wire between the glow plugs is aluminum and about 10 ga. and in sad shape. The old wires were mashed flat and wrapped around the glow plug terminal.
If I made new ones out of copper what guage wire should I use ?
Should I put terminals on the end of wires?

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jim

The flatness at the ends is very important, having a circular diameter contacting at two tangent points is bad, "think your hand on top of a basketball contacting the floor - not a lot of contact on either" the flatter the wire is, the MORE contact the wire will have with the glow plug, more contact = more current flow

 

[Dave_eng]

I'm replacing the glow plugs in my B7100, the old wire between the glow plugs is aluminum and about 10 ga. and in sad shape. The old wires were mashed flat and wrapped around the glow plug terminal.
If I made new ones out of copper what guage wire should I use ?
Should I put terminals on the end of wires?

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Jim

Can you plse advise why you are replacing the GP's?

If you are having starting problems, it unlikely the glow plugs themselves from what I see in your photo.

Your GP's are wired in parallel. This means each GP relies on metal to metal contact to the engine block to allow the proper amount of current to flow through each GP. Your GP's and engine block look quite rusty and a good cleaning of the contact surfaces might be a big help.

Do you have a multimeter? You can get one for less than $10. With it you measure the resistance of each GP which is the determining factor in their condition.

How long does it take the GP indicator to light up. If one or more GP's are not flowing the proper amount of current the indicator will be slow to glow.

The proper resistance value of a Glow Plug is between 1.35 and 1.65 ohms.
This test needs to be done with the interconnecting wire between the GP's removed. Better yet with the GP removed from the engine.

If yours are within the resistance range there is no point in replacing them.

Dave

 

[F2036]

Dave eng, I'm just going through trying to get the tractor in better condition. The wiring was a real mess and I'm trying to make it better. New glow plug indicator, new key switch, so why not glow plugs also? They weren't that expensive.

I am wondering how tight the glow plugs are supposed to be in the head, they were barely more than finger tight. Also they were a real bear to get a hold of with a wrench, not enough room for much of any thing.
What do any of you guys use to get the glow plugs tightened up or loosened?

 

[D2Cat]

Seems to me on the B7100 I removed the intake manifold to get a clear shot at them. Use, I think a 10mm deep socket. Torque is probably around 10 ft #, but my method is to screw them in until they seat, and then twist my wrist (using a 3/8 " ratchet) 14 deg clockwise!

I also put a dash of anti-seize on the threads, just for the next time.

 

[Dave_eng]

Download this NGK cataloue and go to the Glow plug section on page 107.

It shows torque values for GP's based upon thread size.

https://www.ngkntk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/NGK_Hort_Cat_2016.pdf

You will see:
8 mm Thread Torque 8 to 15 Nm
9 mm 7.65 to 9.35 Nm
10 mm 15to 20 Nm
12 mm 20 to 25 NM
14 mm 20 to 25 Nm
18 mm 20 to 30 Nm

To convert to more NA style torque values go to Kyles Converter.

http://www.kylesconverter.com/torque/newton-meters-to-inch--pounds-force

I think the B7100 uses GP's with a 10mmx1.25 thread

The conversion works out to 88 to 122 in-lb or 11 to 14.75 lb-ft.

For these lower toque values using an inch pound wrench will be less likely to over torque.

I agree with the use of anti seize. When doing so I would use the lower torque number because of the lubrication effect of the anti-seize.

Torque values are based upon dry threads.

The B7100 WSM on Kubotabooks.com has an excellent colored wiring explanation of the GP system including the key switch.

Amazon.com sells kits with the special sockets for glow plugs. The socket is thinner wall.

https://www.amazon.com/SG-Autosport...d=1513743247&sr=1-1&keywords=glow+plug+socket

$30 for kit with several sizes. Less for one size.

Dave

 

[In Utopia]

Seems to me on the B7100 I removed the intake manifold to get a clear shot at them. Use, I think a 10mm deep socket. Torque is probably around 10 ft #, but my method is to screw them in until they seat, and then twist my wrist (using a 3/8 " ratchet) 14 deg clockwise!

I also put a dash of anti-seize on the threads, just for the next time.

When I was checking the plugs on my L175 I had to remove the intake, thought it would be a hassle, but it wasn't.
What made the big difference in the way my plugs were heating was the aluminum wire. As stated, it must be flat, but just as important, the ends must be bright clean. A couple of seconds on a wire wheel made all the difference in the world.