Glow plug issue

[Kingstrucking]

I have a L35. When I turn the key to start the glow plug light does NOT light up. If I turn the key and leave it on for say 10-30 seconds it still takes forever to start. With this being said is it my glow plug controller or glow plug relay? I've read if you change one it's best to change them both? Any suggestions?

 

[85Hokie]

first ........ test THEM !

Take the top lead off - use an OHM meter, top of plug with one lead to good ground the other - good reading about 1 ohm ........ IF no reading that one is bad!

report back

 

[Kingstrucking]

first ........ test THEM !

Take the top lead off - use an OHM meter, top of plug with one lead to good ground the other - good reading about 1 ohm ........ IF no reading that one is bad!

report back

I do have a cheap OHM meter but I'm not sure where to set it at? Never really used one only a couple times. If one is bad would that keep my light from coming on when I turn the key?

 

[Dave_eng]

I do not have a WSM for a L35.

What I see is that a L3300 uses the similar D1703 engine and is close in years of production.

The L35 and L3300 both use the same Glow Controller part # 16+415-65660 worth $108

The WSM for the L3300 which I do have shows a check out procedure for the Glow Controller.

I will extract the two pages and attach them to this post.

It is also important to realize the glow controller is dependent upon receiving an accurate engine temp signal from a sensor located near the thermostat. A erroneous or no temp signal will leave the controller not working.

As a starting point identify the GP controller temp sensor and make certain its wire has not been pulled off.

The WSM shows the GP resistance as 0.5 ohms not the typical 0.9 ohms. I do not know why.

All GP's should have very similar ohm readings.

If you are not familiar with using a multi meter doing electrical trouble shooting will be tough.

Post a photo of the face of your multi meter and we can try and get you started on the right path.

Dave

 

[Pau7220]

It would be wise to check for voltage at the GP before disconnecting wiring and checking resistance. If there's no power there, new GPs with proper resistance still wouldn't work.

 

[Kingstrucking]

I do not have a WSM for a L35.

What I see is that a L3300 uses the similar D1703 engine and is close in years of production.

The L35 and L3300 both use the same Glow Controller part # 16+415-65660 worth $108

The WSM for the L3300 which I do have shows a check out procedure for the Glow Controller.

I will extract the two pages and attach them to this post.

It is also important to realize the glow controller is dependent upon receiving an accurate engine temp signal from a sensor located near the thermostat. A erroneous or no temp signal will leave the controller not working.

As a starting point identify the GP controller temp sensor and make certain its wire has not been pulled off.

The WSM shows the GP resistance as 0.5 ohms not the typical 0.9 ohms. I do not know why.

All GP's should have very similar ohm readings.

If you are not familiar with using a multi meter doing electrical trouble shooting will be tough.

Post a photo of the face of your multi meter and we can try and get you started on the right path.

Dave

Here's what I've come up with so far by testing things with my light tester. I have 11.6-12volts with the key in the on position going to the glow plug relay. When I test the glow plug controller I have 11.6-12 volts of power to #3 main switch AC and #5 glow relay. I've included a screenshot of that diagram. I'm also including a picture of a relay or controller (not sure what it is) that comes through the same wiring harness as the controller and relay. No idea what it is. Also from what I'm reading there is a slow burn fuse? Where would that be located? Thanks Nick

 

[Kingstrucking]

Here's what I've come up with so far by testing things with my light tester. I have 11.6-12volts with the key in the on position going to the glow plug relay. When I test the glow plug controller I have 11.6-12 volts of power to #3 main switch AC and #5 glow relay. I've included a screenshot of that diagram. I'm also including a picture of a relay or controller (not sure what it is) that comes through the same wiring harness as the controller and relay. No idea what it is. Also from what I'm reading there is a slow burn fuse? Where would that be located? Thanks Nick

I figured out that relay is for the starter. Does anyone have a better picture of where the water temperature sensor is located? I found what I believe it is but I'm not sure

 

[Kingstrucking]

Here's what I've come up with so far by testing things with my light tester. I have 11.6-12volts with the key in the on position going to the glow plug relay. When I test the glow plug controller I have 11.6-12 volts of power to #3 main switch AC and #5 glow relay. I've included a screenshot of that diagram. I'm also including a picture of a relay or controller (not sure what it is) that comes through the same wiring harness as the controller and relay. No idea what it is. Also from what I'm reading there is a slow burn fuse? Where would that be located? Thanks Nick

Disregard I did found the water temperature sensor. It's there but no wiring going to it. It looks pretty rough so I can replace it but I'm not even sure where to begin to wire it in at? The plug end is even miss if there was any wiring. Definitely need some help with this one

 

[Dave_eng]

The slow blow fuse must be OK or you would not see power anywhere past the battery.

Most temp sensors are located just below the thermostat.

Dave

 

[Kingstrucking]

The slow blow fuse must be OK or you would not see power anywhere past the battery.

Most temp sensors are located just below the thermostat.

Dave

I found it. Picture attached. The only wires I have (pic attached) as you see are 2 wires that run along the same bunch of wires for the head light. These 2 wires don't even reach the water temp sensor

 

[Dave_eng]

My WSM as previously mentioned is not for a L35. Further it seems to be missing the electrical wiring diagram.

Perhaps it is time for you to buy a proper WSM.

I found this schematic for the controller showing where the temp sensor connects.

Dave

 

[Kingstrucking]

My WSM as previously mentioned is not for a L35. Further it seems to be missing the electrical wiring diagram.

Perhaps it is time for you to buy a proper WSM.

I found this schematic for the controller showing where the temp sensor connects.

View attachment 69878

Dave

Thanks

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I have a L35. When I turn the key to start the glow plug light does NOT light up. If I turn the key and leave it on for say 10-30 seconds it still takes forever to start. With this being said is it my glow plug controller or glow plug relay? I've read if you change one it's best to change them both? Any suggestions?

1. Unless the indicator light is burnt out, the problem is before the relay as the timer/controller controls the light.
2. I thought an open temperature sensor would just cause the controller to stay on a long time, but according to the troubleshooting chart it can cause the light (and controller?) to not turn on.
3. There is a temperature sensor for the glow plug controller separate from the sensor for the temperature gauge. The one you're interested in is near the air filter. See the service page attached.

I've attached some pages from the WSM which should help you. You can test the light by pulling the connector off the controller and grounding the WB wire with the key on. It should light.
I'd check the temperature sensor at the connector. That way you're checking for continuity as well as sensor resistance.

Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes.

 

[Kingstrucking]

Thanks I'll look at it again this week sometime.

1. Unless the indicator light is burnt out, the problem is before the relay as the timer/controller controls the light.
2. I thought an open temperature sensor would just cause the controller to stay on a long time, but according to the troubleshooting chart it can cause the light (and controller?) to not turn on.
3. There is a temperature sensor for the glow plug controller separate from the sensor for the temperature gauge. The one you're interested in is near the air filter. See the service page attached.

I've attached some pages from the WSM which should help you. You can test the light by pulling the connector off the controller and grounding the WB wire with the key on. It should light.
I'd check the temperature sensor at the connector. That way you're checking for continuity as well as sensor resistance.

Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes.

View attachment 69886 View attachment 69887 View attachment 69888 View attachment 69889 View attachment 69890

 

[Kingstrucking]

Thanks I'll look at it again this week sometime.

To avoid trying to trace wires and frustration would it be easier to put in a block heater? If I do where do I install in at on my L35?

 

[tanuki]

I know some will be offended by this solution, but it's simple and cheap. Go to the auto parts store and get a high amperage toggle switch ($5). Mount it somewhere handy by the dash. Run the hot wire from relay/controller to one side and the other to the glow plugs. Yes it's no longer automatic but it's bulletproof.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

yeesh, someone decided to make 'heating up gloplugs' real complicated.....
makes me appreicate the BX23S system I have. Turn key to 'gloplug', count 3 steamboats, start engine. Works every time, all year round.
basic math says a 0.5r gloplug will draw 24 amps at 12 volts, 3 will draw 72 amps. Like Tan, I'd bypass the 'mess'... get a good push button to power a 100A contactor/relay to supply battery power to the gloplugs. If you need to USE this tractor, it's the cheapest solution to get her running. If you have deep pockets, take to dealer and be sitting down when you get the bill. I suspect they'd replace EVERYTHING ...controller, ign switch, sensors, gloplugs maybe even a wiring harness or two. That could cost 2-3,000 $$ ?? unlike the $50 .

Had a better look at the scematic, lower right 'glow relay',looks EASY to bodge !. If you remove the connector going to the 'glow controller', you can ground the wire going to pin #4 of the glow relay. That should put power to the glowplugs. If that works,(put voltmeter on glowplug..should get 12V with relay on..) wire a $2 pushbuton between #4 and ground. Be nice to use 'spade lug' connectors instead of cutting the #4 wire, in case you decide to troubleshoot this properly ...all winter long.....

 

[Kingstrucking]

yeesh, someone decided to make 'heating up gloplugs' real complicated.....
makes me appreicate the BX23S system I have. Turn key to 'gloplug', count 3 steamboats, start engine. Works every time, all year round.
basic math says a 0.5r gloplug will draw 24 amps at 12 volts, 3 will draw 72 amps. Like Tan, I'd bypass the 'mess'... get a good push button to power a 100A contactor/relay to supply battery power to the gloplugs. If you need to USE this tractor, it's the cheapest solution to get her running. If you have deep pockets, take to dealer and be sitting down when you get the bill. I suspect they'd replace EVERYTHING ...controller, ign switch, sensors, gloplugs maybe even a wiring harness or two. That could cost 2-3,000 $$ ?? unlike the $50 .

Had a better look at the scematic, lower right 'glow relay',looks EASY to bodge !. If you remove the connector going to the 'glow controller', you can ground the wire going to pin #4 of the glow relay. That should put power to the glowplugs. If that works,(put voltmeter on glowplug..should get 12V with relay on..) wire a $2 pushbuton between #4 and ground. Be nice to use 'spade lug' connectors instead of cutting the #4 wire, in case you decide to troubleshoot this properly ...all winter long.....

Definitely all about cheap. I talked to a friend last night about the toggle switch idea but wasn't sure how to wire it but after reading this I do! Can I use a basic 12v tester to test the wire going to the glow plugs? I'm assuming it won't damage anything if I do? If I have power then my glows plugs are getting juice just need to figure out if the plugs themselves are working if I really want to put more time in it. If I do get a block heater where is the beat place to put it at and what size do I need? I also found a water heater online last night but says I need a water pump bypass which I dont think I have on my L35?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Easy to test glowplugs...
1. take pictures first...so you KNOW where the wires go later....
2, remove wires between the 3 plugs.
3, use ohmeter.
3a, first connect ohmeter leads together and remember the number ( say it's 0.4 ohm),
from one plug 'wire connection' to ground.
3b, connect ohmeter to power stud(connection) and ground of a plug, say the meter read 1.1 ohms

subtract that number from the first one ( 1.1-.4) which is .7 ohms and kind close to the 0.5 in the spec.
THAT plug is GOOD. If you get a reading the same as the 'shorted probes' reading (0.4 in this case) then the plug is BAD. The reading has to be 0.5 higher than the storted probes value.

If you put a voltmeter on the plug wire it should read 10-12 volts if power is getting there. Even a simple 'test light probe' will work(it'll light up(.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I would use a block heater to supplement the glow plugs, not replace them. The pushbutton to ground the relay coil seems like the least disruptive quick fix. I'd use a momentary switch to make sure I didn't inadvertently leave them on.
I bought a controller on eBay for much less $$ ($39) than Kubota, in case you decide to go that way.