Gents....give me some guidance/opinions/experience here please.

Flintknapper

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D2Cat Wrote:

'Cut a coupe of grooves in the bars of the rears and call it good. Cut them 1/4" wide and 3/8" or so deep. You have nothing to loose.'

Naw, not going to try to modify/improve what I have on there now, they are just too far gone for my purposes. Its time for new tires. Not really wanting to walk a mile back to the house in 105°F heat like last summer (95% humidity). Not that I couldn't use the exercise, just don't need the inconvenience.

Of course...I am fully aware you can stick a tractor with ANY tire....but I wouldn't have been buried to the frame in this case....had I gone ahead and replaced the rear tires last summer.


Stuck02.jpg


'Those deep lug tires were designed for rice paddies. You run them on anything but mud they'll bounce your gizzard out.'

Not sure I still have a 'gizzard' anyway.....but 'bounce' owing to wide tread lug distance is a consideration. The rudimentary seat on my tractor pretty much insures I feel every bump, hole or rough spot I go over as it is.
 

GeoHorn

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My impression is the Turkey tread appears to put more rubber on the ground with tighter lugs which should run smoother on hard ground or pavement and less damage on turf. Clay/Mud may be more likely to stick to it if that’s what you mean, but I’d guess that less time would be spent in that than elsewhere.
 

D2Cat

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D2Cat Wrote:

'Cut a coupe of grooves in the bars of the rears and call it good. Cut them 1/4" wide and 3/8" or so deep. You have nothing to loose.'

Naw, not going to try to modify/improve what I have on there now, they are just too far gone for my purposes. Its time for new tires. Not really wanting to walk a mile back to the house in 105°F heat like last summer (95% humidity). Not that I couldn't use the exercise, just don't need the inconvenience.

Of course...I am fully aware you can stick a tractor with ANY tire....but I wouldn't have been buried to the frame in this case....had I gone ahead and replaced the rear tires last summer.


View attachment 97518

'Those deep lug tires were designed for rice paddies. You run them on anything but mud they'll bounce your gizzard out.'

Not sure I still have a 'gizzard' anyway.....but 'bounce' owing to wide tread lug distance is a consideration. The rudimentary seat on my tractor pretty much insures I feel every bump, hole or rough spot I go over as it is.
You buy new tires and you'll have more confidence in you getting out of situations, but you drive in that kind of material and you will be REALLY stuck because the new bars will cut a trench and set you in good!!!
 

Flintknapper

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You buy new tires and you'll have more confidence in you getting out of situations, but you drive in that kind of material and you will be REALLY stuck because the new bars will cut a trench and set you in good!!!
No Sir.

I have a bit over 50 years of driving experience off-road in 4x4 vehicles and tractors. I can assure you 'over confidence' will not be the cause of my getting stuck. Misjudgment/Misreading conditions, yeah....I've done that.

But I reject the logic that having better tires will result in me getting stuck even worse. Some pimple faced kid, sure. But I've been around the block a few times before.
 
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woodman55

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I like the second ones. Taller treads would be like having built in chains.
 

Flintknapper

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My impression is the Turkey tread appears to put more rubber on the ground with tighter lugs which should run smoother on hard ground or pavement and less damage on turf. Clay/Mud may be more likely to stick to it if that’s what you mean, but I’d guess that less time would be spent in that than elsewhere.
Yeah, I have to agree with that assessment. I think that for the majority of what I do the 'Turkey' tread makes more sense. The soil here varies. I have both Sandy Loam and Iron Ore/Red Clay soils. The S/L really presents no problem most of the time (as long as there is a bottom in it).

The clay on the other hand depends on consistency. When really wet it is slick but clears the tire treads fairly well. When it starts to dry out....it gets 'sticky' and will 'ball up' on the tires (quickly filling close treads).

Here is an example after having driven only 75 feet on one of the old logging roads (in an old Bronco) I just turned around knowing full well it would only get worse.

Mud.jpg


Naturally, there are times when its just best to let things dry out, but sometimes I have places to go on the property that are wet and something to do that can't wait. So the conundrum is how to balance my needs. There is no perfect tire for all the conditions I will experience.

I know how normal R1 type tires perform (or not) just have never had or used any really deep tread tires and I'm starting to think they may not be that much better than what I've always run in the past (outside of swampy conditions).
 

D2Cat

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No Sir.

I have a bit over 50 years of driving experience off-road in 4x4 vehicles and tractors. I can assure you 'over confidence' will not be the cause of my getting stuck. Misjudgment/Misreading conditions, yeah....I've done that.

But I reject the logic that having better tires will result in me getting stuck even worse. Some pimple faced kid, sure. But I've been around the block a few times before.
You asked for guidance/opinions/experience, but I guess you really didn't want that one. And all my pimples have dried up! No offense meant!
 

NCL4701

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Yeah, I have to agree with that assessment. I think that for the majority of what I do the 'Turkey' tread makes more sense. The soil here varies. I have both Sandy Loam and Iron Ore/Red Clay soils. The S/L really presents no problem most of the time (as long as there is a bottom in it).

The clay on the other hand depends on consistency. When really wet it is slick but clears the tire treads fairly well. When it starts to dry out....it gets 'sticky' and will 'ball up' on the tires (quickly filling close treads).

Here is an example after having driven only 75 feet on one of the old logging roads (in an old Bronco) I just turned around knowing full well it would only get worse.

View attachment 97528

Naturally, there are times when its just best to let things dry out, but sometimes I have places to go on the property that are wet and something to do that can't wait. So the conundrum is how to balance my needs. There is no perfect tire for all the conditions I will experience.

I know how normal R1 type tires perform (or not) just have never had or used any really deep tread tires and I'm starting to think they may not be that much better than what I've always run in the past (outside of swampy conditions).
I’d say your correct about tread depth not being a significant advantage unless you’re in very swampy conditions. For example the two tires pictured below were on the 9N we recently gave away to a good home as we had no need for it. The one on the right side is much newer and has much more tread remaining than the left side tire but never noticed any difference in traction unless it was in milkshake consistency clay. Even in loose dirt such as a freshly disced field the left pulled just fine even though the lugs are much more worn.
FC983813-B6C1-4030-AD91-A651C758B92F.jpeg
A184BFAF-DF74-46D2-8B1E-B08C9CB39D0D.jpeg
 

cthomas

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Sometimes all Four Wheel Drive is good for is making the walk back farther.:ROFLMAO::cool::sneaky:
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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A Carlisle Farm Specialist R1 rear tire (8 ply) is a good match for the OEM diameter and rolling circumference....but doesn't have the tread depth (1.25") I think I would prefer. IDK. :(
That would be a much better tire than the two you listed.
One thing that get's spun around a lot is tractor and tread design.
My tires have a real low tread height but have excellent traction, and clean out.
I've had mine L3450 in 4 feet of mud and it walked right out of it.
 
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Flintknapper

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You asked for guidance/opinions/experience, but I guess you really didn't want that one. And all my pimples have dried up! No offense meant!
Okie Dokie, well thank you for whichever of those three you contributed. All thoughts are welcome.
 

Russell King

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Titan tires are made in the United States

They also own and make Goodyear ag tires

I don’t know what tires you should get but I would get regular R1 or R14 tires if it was me. But I don’t drive my tractor when it is muddy just to not compress the soil and I only have 5 acres so I can just walk everywhere
 

Flintknapper

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OK guys, last minute opinions on a couple of tires.

I've pretty much settled on one or the other of the following:


Tire Road Crew 02.jpg


_______________________________________________________________________________________

Tire Galaxy Earth-Pro R-1.jpg



Some clear differences are the tread angles (45° and 23°).

Another distinction is the Tube Type Tire vs. Tubeless. My preference is Tubeless for tire repair, but a Tube Type would allow me to run a lower tire pressure with less chance of breaking the bead on the rim. Lower tire pressure can be helpful in some situations. Thoughts?

The spacing of the treads on each tire is markedly different as well. The 'Turkey Tread' provides much more rubber for the same amount of contact patch. Better for dry conditions....but maybe not as good in mud.

Then we have tread depth. The 'Turkey Tread' is deeper than the Earth-Pro and this might help prevent thorns or other sharp objects from reaching the 'casing' as easily. I also feel a deeper tread can be an advantage in mud, but tread pattern and ability to 'clean' is important too and the Earth-Pro looks better there.

What do you think guys?" Its time to purchase 'something' and move along.

Thanks again.

Flint.
 

jyoutz

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Tubeless Titan or Carlisle brand R1 or R14 (whatever fits your wheels).
 

fried1765

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OK guys, last minute opinions on a couple of tires.

I've pretty much settled on one or the other of the following:


View attachment 97862

_______________________________________________________________________________________

View attachment 97863


Some clear differences are the tread angles (45° and 23°).

Another distinction is the Tube Type Tire vs. Tubeless. My preference is Tubeless for tire repair, but a Tube Type would allow me to run a lower tire pressure with less chance of breaking the bead on the rim. Lower tire pressure can be helpful in some situations. Thoughts?

The spacing of the treads on each tire is markedly different as well. The 'Turkey Tread' provides much more rubber for the same amount of contact patch. Better for dry conditions....but maybe not as good in mud.

Then we have tread depth. The 'Turkey Tread' is deeper than the Earth-Pro and this might help prevent thorns or other sharp objects from reaching the 'casing' as easily. I also feel a deeper tread can be an advantage in mud, but tread pattern and ability to 'clean' is important too and the Earth-Pro looks better there.

What do you think guys?" Its time to purchase 'something' and move along.

Thanks again.

Flint.
To difficult for me to make that determination!
BTW, Just because it SAYS tubless, does not mean that you cannot put a tube in it.
 

Flintknapper

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To difficult for me to make that determination!
BTW, Just because it SAYS tubeless, does not mean that you cannot put a tube in it.
Yes, in fact sometimes a tubeless tire won't seal well enough against the tire rim.....that it actually requires a tube anyway.

Generally, that is a result of a bent rim lip or a poorly manufactured tire.

Tubes are good for 'loaded' tires to add traction and ballast. Tubes can save a tubeless tire that has suffered a large puncture or small tear. Tubes can help allow for lower tire pressure, creating a larger contact patch. There are pros and cons to tubes.

I'd prefer not have a tube tire....only because repairing a flat is more involved and generally the tire goes flat immediately when a tube is punctured.

I can plug a tubeless tire (in most cases) myself and reinflate.

That said.....I've really only had a few incidents over the years where I had a flat on my tube type tires.

Punctures from nails mostly...but also had a deer antler go through a tire on my other tractor, that was weird.
 

fried1765

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Yes, in fact sometimes a tubeless tire won't seal well enough against the tire rim.....that it actually requires a tube anyway.

Generally, that is a result of a bent rim lip or a poorly manufactured tire.

Tubes are good for 'loaded' tires to add traction and ballast. Tubes can save a tubeless tire that has suffered a large puncture or small tear. Tubes can help allow for lower tire pressure, creating a larger contact patch. There are pros and cons to tubes.

I'd prefer not have a tube tire....only because repairing a flat is more involved and generally the tire goes flat immediately when a tube is punctured.

I can plug a tubeless tire (in most cases) myself and reinflate.

That said.....I've really only had a few incidents over the years where I had a flat on my tube type tires.

Punctures from nails mostly...but also had a deer antler go through a tire on my other tractor, that was weird.
I have a locust thorn puncture issue with my ZT tubeless front tires.
Much as I hate to use it, "Slime" does work, ....but oh what a mess, if later tire replacement/removal becomes necessary.
I probably should just have those two front tires foam filled.
 

Flintknapper

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I have a locust thorn puncture issue with my ZT tubeless front tires.
Much as I hate to use it, "Slime" does work, ....but oh what a mess, if later tire replacement/removal becomes necessary.
I probably should just have those two front tires foam filled.
I have solid front tires on mine for just that reason. We have a lot of Honey Locust here and while I don't normally mow with my ZT where those are....I do use my ZT to mow along some areas of fence line that have it. I know....I know, remove the Locust Trees. :rolleyes:

Chee09.jpg
 

fried1765

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I have solid front tires on mine for just that reason. We have a lot of Honey Locust here and while I don't normally mow with my ZT where those are....I do use my ZT to mow along some areas of fence line that have it. I know....I know, remove the Locust Trees. :rolleyes:

View attachment 97886
You have EXCELLENT taste in choosing ZT mowers!;)
I would have to remove acres of locust trees.
 
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woodman55

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I am going to lean towards the Galaxys, because I had a set of Galaxy radials, and they were well make tires.