Fusable link connector hot; no start

[dlundblad]

With what’s going on, I’ve decided to tear into my G6200 and now it won’t crank. At first I assumed it was a safety switch issue, but I could smell something hot. Come to find out, it’s the fusable link at the starter. I didn’t notice this before, but the connector looks to have gotten hot many times before. (I bought it cheap; I’m not the original owner) If the link is broken, the no crank makes sense.. But why is it getting hot?

There’s a Japanese motorcycle company that sells all the connectors of this vintage that Id need. I do have a spare harness, but I prefer not to sacrifice it at this time if there is a greater issue.

 

[chim]

Heat is created when current flows through resistance. A poor connection provides resistance. It doesn't take much current to create the heat. If it were mine, I'd temporarily put 30A inline fuse in place of the link and check the current draw with an ammeter while trying the starter to see if it's drawing too much. The 30A will pop before you burn up the harness if something is really wrong. Could be the result of a bad connection and nothing really serious.

My Ford 1210 had intermittent starting problems and I traced it to a break in a wire inside the insulation.

 

[Roadworthy]

I think Chim hit the nail on the head. Those connectors can get loose over time and not make good contact. The plastic connector may still latch together fine but the connections inside get weak, then they get hot, then they take any spring out of the metal. New connectors won't necessarily be of any better quality just hopefully have seen less use. Check the connections inside the connector.

 

[GeoHorn]

What ga wire serves that starter? If it’s larger than 8 ga... a 30 A fuse is too small and will likely blow also. An internal short of the starter will also blow a fusible link...as it is supposed to.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The fusible link feeds power to the unit, it goes to the switch and if equipped to the fuse box for un switched items.

When hitting the start circuit there are fuses to protect all the individual wires and components with the exception on one circuit, the glow plug circuit.

Most of the time a shorted glow plug will cause all sorts of issues.

As for the start circuit it's just a series circuit that runs from the main switch to the safety switches and to the starter, so current flow mean either a wire is damaged or a safety switch is engaged or damaged.

 

[GeoHorn]

The fusible link feeds power to the unit, it goes to the switch and if equipped to the fuse box for un switched items.

When hitting the start circuit there are fuses to protect all the individual wires and components with the exception on one circuit, the glow plug circuit.

Most of the time a shorted glow plug will cause all sorts of issues.

As for the start circuit it's just a series circuit that runs from the main switch to the safety switches and to the starter, so current flow mean either a wire is damaged or a safety switch is engaged or damaged.

Boy, I’m going out on a limb here... but I disagree for what must be a suicidal move, NIW. LOL

(Without having the schematic for that particular lawntractor) the fusible link is likely BETWEEN a relay which switches power from the battery to the starter motor. If correct, This means that the short must be downstream from the fusible link... IE, inside the starter motor or at that connection to the motor.

(Standing by with Nomex-suit on.).

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Boy, I’m going out on a limb here... but I disagree for what must be a suicidal move, NIW. LOL

(Without having the schematic for that particular lawntractor) the fusible link is likely BETWEEN a relay which switches power from the battery to the starter motor. If correct, This means that the short must be downstream from the fusible link... IE, inside the starter motor or at that connection to the motor.

(Standing by with Nomex-suit on.).

Sorry yep going to torch you!

Every single kubota tractor, mower and other equipment the main fuse link is between the battery Positive to the switch and unswitched side of the fuse panel if equipped.

It's job is to detect and save the main wiring.

Don't get confused that the Fuse link or the fuse is connected to the starter, that is just a convenient point at which to tap into the positive feed from the battery.

The starter solenoid wire from either the switch or in newer equipment (not this one) the relay is protected via a different fuse and not the main fuse.

 

[GeoHorn]

Sorry yep going to torch you!

Every single kubota tractor, mower and other equipment the main fuse link is between the battery Positive to the switch and unswitched side of the fuse panel if equipped.

It's job is to detect and save the main wiring.

Don't get confused that the Fuse link or the fuse is connected to the starter, that is just a convenient point at which to tap into the positive feed from the battery.

The starter solenoid wire from either the switch or in newer equipment (not this one) the relay is protected via a different fuse and not the main fuse.

The damndest thing about Kubota schematics is the failure to portray the battery in the main schematic. Grrrr...

No where in my schematic is the that battery shown... instead, in another location in the WSM the battery is shown in lesser detail.

As is usually the case, NIW,... you are CORRECT! That starter terminal IS where the battery is first let-onto the system and I totally missed that in viewing the main schematic.... very disappointing, on my part.

THANK YOU for that correction. (But it was very sneaky of you to “quote” my earlier post,...as that prevents my deleting my earlier post and deleting my stoopidity from public view!). LOLOL.

YOU da’ MAN!