L3240. Changed fuel filter and emptied fuel tank in case of excess trash. Filled tank, went through all the steps of the bleed procedure with the fuel bleed valve. It will turn over about 10 times, fire and not start. Any ideas before I get a mobile mechanic?
Fuel issue L3240
- Thread starter Jabbo
- Start date
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
I've had them do that before. What "I" did was loosen the fuel line between the filter and lift pump, let fuel flow through it. Then tighten the clamps back up. Now, loosen (or remove) the fuel line at the injection pump and have someone crank the engine over. Once you get fuel out reinstall the line quickly and tighten the clamp. Now leave the bleeder screw open and crank til it starts.
couple things I do, worth mentioning
when run out of fuel or if changing the fuel filter, I turn off the valve, then change the filter. When putting the ring nut back on, I don't install it all the way-I'll leave it somewhat loose. Now turn the valve on and let fuel flow back into the bowl until it comes out (ring nut loose....), and while it's flowing out, tighten the nut. Doing that you probably won't have to even loosen the bleeder screw, or I never really have. Fires right up and runs fine.
One other thing. If you try to bleed the injector lines and loosen them at the pump end, sometimes the delivery valve will turn inside the pump housing unless you HOLD it from turning (which is hard to do). If it turns, you have two options. One, turn it back or two take the pump out and have a shop rebuild it. Sometimes if it's turned hard enough it'll damage it and then your only option is replacement. I've sent them out before to be rebuilt and they were too far gone--because the owner turned the delivery valve while "bleeding" the lines.
couple things I do, worth mentioning
when run out of fuel or if changing the fuel filter, I turn off the valve, then change the filter. When putting the ring nut back on, I don't install it all the way-I'll leave it somewhat loose. Now turn the valve on and let fuel flow back into the bowl until it comes out (ring nut loose....), and while it's flowing out, tighten the nut. Doing that you probably won't have to even loosen the bleeder screw, or I never really have. Fires right up and runs fine.
One other thing. If you try to bleed the injector lines and loosen them at the pump end, sometimes the delivery valve will turn inside the pump housing unless you HOLD it from turning (which is hard to do). If it turns, you have two options. One, turn it back or two take the pump out and have a shop rebuild it. Sometimes if it's turned hard enough it'll damage it and then your only option is replacement. I've sent them out before to be rebuilt and they were too far gone--because the owner turned the delivery valve while "bleeding" the lines.
I ran my L3240 out of diesel [its easy to do if you have the engine revved way up to run a PTO wood chipper and you are not in the seat looking at the gauges]. Put in 10 gallons, opened the bleed valve. It would cough a few times and then just turn over as if it had no fuel. I knew better but had not changed the fuel filter in 600 hours of run time. Because I was in a hurry, I paid for the complete fuel filter package: filter, bowl and filter base with ports and valve. Thinking all I needed was the clean bowl and filter, I did not clamp the fuel supply and change out the old base. Two days of recharging the battery and repeatedly cranking it over never got more than a sputter. Intimidated by that spaghetti bowl of tubing on top of the injector pump, I gave in and called for field service. The fellow came out and actually had the same bad luck I was having but when I told him I had a new filter base and valve to plug in, he new how to do that without making a big mess. There must have been some solid gunk lodged in the old filter base because with the new valve and base installed it ran like new.
The lesson may be that running the tractor out of fuel drags the dregs of the tank into the system and the gunk stops at the filter OR SOMEWHERE UP STREAM.
Slight improvement on your suggestion, learned from an expensive visit from the service department of my local Kubota dealer: Go ahead and tighten the ring nut but pop the tubing off the air return port [that brass nipple at the top of the filter housing] and wait until no bubbles come out...THEN put the tube back on. This eliminates almost all the air from the fuel supply.
that works but there's an easy way to prevent air lock when changing fuel filter
when you put the ring back on, don't tighten it. Turn the fuel valve on, let the filter bowl fill up. Let it continue to "fill", with the ring loose. Fuel will leak out around the ring. As it's leakin out you'll see bubbles in the fuel. When it quits bubbling, tighten up the ring. Don't have to bleed the system if you do that (usually).