Fixing hole in side of block

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,228
1,321
113
Austin, Texas
@joesmith123
in the video when it first started (in your post #603) I noticed that the whole fuel limit assembly was unscrewing when it ran. So I assume that it is really loose and needs to be properly adjusted and then tightened up. How is that done? I have no idea!
 
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joesmith123

Active member

Equipment
L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
498
110
43
earth
Got rest of parts close to clean and then paint

20240924_094614.jpg


Got 2 pallets close to tractor, brought all parts that need blue including front axle using 3 point lift on bx1500

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@Russell King

in this image, I try to show yall how that adjustment works; that nut adjust the point that stop the fork from going too far forward

I think I pulled it out too far, and it allowed the fork to go too far forward, and let the pin on the injection pump come OUT of its slot

What happens if I try to run it with this port open, and the other port that shows the injection pump latch? That way, I can monitor what happens and we can get to solving this area

My suspicion: if idling and not too high rpm, it shouldn't be pushing out too much oil out of these ports and it should be possible to make the idle adjustment with these ports open

I know we saw oil come out of them during the runaway but maybe thats because the rpm was high and oil pressure very high

20240924_113948.jpg


Move parts to pallet in shade, first cleaning: brush them with diesel brush, get the big stuff with files, hit with compressed air

20240924_114004.jpg


Files and brush in bucket of diesel

20240924_114032.jpg


Upgrade to the solvent puddle: if left open, it evaporate and is lost

I put in jar that closes, now it last longer and keep close when you need clean hand

20240924_230340.jpg


Hit parts to paint with: compressed air with file, then soaked in diesel with big paint brush, then wire wheels

20240924_230401.jpg


Lift axle with bx1500, do that cleaning I narrated

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Hit front axle with everything

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All parts ready to be painted blue

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Paint gun: 32 ounce canister

Next: hit everything with compressed air, part cleaner, poke hole in enamel blue gallon, pour into paint canister, water it down with paint thinner, go through and hit all parts from all angle, small mist no runs

I haven't looked at paint, hopefully it match
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
498
110
43
earth
Spread all parts on pallets, hit with cleaner then paint

20240925_151147.jpg


Spread all parts on 3 pallets close to tractor

20240925_151209.jpg


Took off more from engine, hit it one more time with 6 inch soft wire wheel, 1000 rpm

20240925_151335.jpg


Back of tractor before cleaning and paint



Up close video of everything after 1 hit of part cleaner

20240925_173352.jpg


Put tape over area you don't want paint

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Enamel, paint thinner, drill holes in paint can, mix into canister

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20240925_191838.jpg



First coat

@Ktrim

Paint gallon is shown in picture next to paint thinner, match perfect

Put 2nd coat on everything, going through with headlight aiming paint gun up underneath machine, watch your fingers

Don't use all the paint, tomorrow flip all the parts etc and get the other side


20240925_213721.jpg


Put 2nd coat on everything, still half gallon left of paint, put coat of black paint on air housing


20240925_214318.jpg


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Now that paint detour done, now I need put energy into planning forward:

hone in on the governor/injection pump latch/fork situation/front adjustment

I'm thinking: take out governor spring to remove the cover, try to pry up forks so it hold the latch better, if you cannot pry up fork, take out injection pump to get better leverage on the fork

Front adjustment bolt: I remember taking it out completely, I did alter the adjustment, I would need to either look at WSM and tinker with it until it is figured out

There is another adjustment, on the other side, that also has spring on it, that one was not touched

They even put plastic cover over them to keep them in place

Plan: get it to where the latch stay inside the fork, tinker with the front adjustment until you get it somewhat in its place, put intake manifold on for the choke plan like yall advise, try to get her started again with those ports open to keep eye on the latch of the injection pump, making sure it stay in the fork and not go right/full throttle, then

if successfully started and not running away, then make adjustment on the front pin that stop the fork front going too far forward, get it to idle at the desired rate

Huge task yall can advise on, I have been thinking about this for awhile, but recently have needed it.

I have 55 gallon barrels, they have thread on them, one big and one small to let air out. I want to use them as holders of different solvent, and would have a sealed line coming out of them and it would go to a lightweight small hose gun that I use to do whatever.

The hose would retract from high area so it stays off the ground, it would be small and lightweight, it would go far distance. Does not have to be high pressure. I can use small pump.

They would be holding solvent, plumbing coming out of them, going to a central pump, with switches depending on which tank I want to pull from. Also to fill them up, I take pickup truck and get get the solvent, and I want a way to pump out of them and into the barrel I want without too much effort/mess.
Tons of time/energy is wasted so far on this project these past few months in the handling of the solvent, tipping over barrels, carrying 5 gallon cans, etc. It is inefficient and it would help move the show forward.

Talk to me generally about this setup. Going into the barrels, it would need a siphon that pulls from bottom of barrel. How would setup the shaft that is tight to the line, and also screws onto the top of the barrel? I soon draw diagram outlining the whole thing.

Also, it is important for it to be easy to fill them back up without taking out all the plumbing
 
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Ktrim

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B2400, lA352 loader,3pth quick hitch/z122r zero turn/restored 52 farmall super a
Dec 23, 2020
414
320
63
Nazareth Pa
What kind of paint?
I use off the shelf kubota paint 4:1 with xylene. Sprays nice
 
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Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
Jul 29, 2023
488
401
63
N.Y,
With all that sand I can't believe it came out so nice. You live in a desert area?
 
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joesmith123

Active member

Equipment
L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
498
110
43
earth
Flip parts paint other side

20240926_105335.jpg
20240926_105354.jpg
20240926_105404.jpg
20240926_105412.jpg
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Hit everything with compressed air

Flipped over everything

Go mix paint and apply

20240926_114152.jpg


Moving metal to expose parts that need paint

20240926_120714.jpg


20240926_120749.jpg


20240926_120809.jpg


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2nd coat on everything, moved levers around getting small missed areas
 
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dragfan66

Member

Equipment
B7500 Z231KW G1800 L3350DT
Apr 12, 2020
53
54
18
Alabama
Looking good.
The exhaust pipe/muffler is going to burn it's paint off pretty quick when you get it running.
 
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GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
11,169
4,778
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
I'm pretty sure that if YOU send Joe a pails of 'kolour korrect' paint, he'll repaint each and every piece, probably 5 or 6 posts from now !!!!:)
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
7,812
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Eastham, Ma
I'm pretty sure that if YOU send Joe a pails of 'kolour korrect' paint, he'll repaint each and every piece, probably 5 or 6 posts from now !!!!:)
I am much more interested in the function and longevity of Joe's engine, than the cosmetics of the engine!
 
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joesmith123

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L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
498
110
43
earth
Isn't that the wrong color for this vintage Kubota?
Lot's of hard work for sure!
Screenshot_20240927_084612_Chrome.jpg


I zoom in on the fuel tank before painting, it was 100% factory

20240927_090037.jpg


Painted fuel tank

20240927_090230.jpg


Other tractor not painted yet

When paint applied onto it, it did not change color, only made it look new

I am pretty sure it is 100% the correct match paint

Hard work: not really, I can't think of anything that was hard to do yet on this project

The hardest thing so far was putting engine back on tractor

Today: move away painted parts that don't yet need installation, mess with the governor/latch

Also, install intake manifold so I can choke it if it runaway

Goal today: get it started and idle without runaway

20240927_093504.jpg


Move axle without scratching paint

20240927_095057.jpg


Moved all parts away, let them cure in sun on pallets

20240927_100634.jpg


Chinese gasket on intake manifold


20240927_104925.jpg


Idea: I get gearcase from other engine and emulate the thread count of that adjustment on the current engine

Main point I try to show you in video:

If latch goes too far left (lower throttle) is the problem that causes latch to climb over the fork

Noticed the nuts on front of that adjustment also came off, cannot use it for guidance


Video of where i got it now, notice the carbon buildup on latch, I want to set it to where carbon is visible, emulating it's factory state

Also notice the adjustment on left side, a spring and a similar style adjustment as front

Goal: tinker with both adjustments until latch is sitting the way it was factory

Can't get latch to sit factory

20240927_131649.jpg


Plumb diesel, install filters and intake manifold

Try to run it like this, if she run away choke it out instantly with rag ready in pocket

20240927_135059.jpg


Brought running pickup, connect all electrical including glow plug, let battery charge up

Soon: prime the diesel lines, give long power to glow plugs, setup camera for startup looking into injection pump latch

20240927_210847.jpg


Found perfect cap to choke manifold


Got it to almost start

Pay attention to this video: notice latch jump left soon as it sputters, then when I try to crank again, nothing

Latch has to be more right for starting


Running but I had to babysit the throttle
 
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Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,228
1,321
113
Austin, Texas
Don’t rely on a rag! It can easily get sucked in the intake.

a plastic cup (not a solo cup but a reusable plastic glass). may be better suited or a rubber ball that is larger than the intake opening. Cut the cup length down so it could be jammed onto the intake opening. Use a hard rubber ball like a racquetball or handball. I would not use a tennis ball.
 
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D2Cat

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Lifetime Member

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,690
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40 miles south of Kansas City
Don’t rely on a rag! It can easily get sucked in the intake.

a plastic cup (not a solo cup but a reusable plastic glass). may be better suited or a rubber ball that is larger than the intake opening. Cut the cup length down so it could be jammed onto the intake opening. Use a hard rubber ball like a racquetball or handball. I would not use a tennis ball.
Or a heavy winter coat.
 
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joesmith123

Active member

Equipment
L295DT, BX1500
Mar 18, 2023
498
110
43
earth


get the idle and the levers to control engine properly,

hone in on some leaks, I did see some near glow plugs and injectors,

Also do compression test on each cylinder, see if compression is higher when engine idling

factory spec: 450 psi


Turned on 2nd try with less than 1 minute of glowplug

This video: notice how it shut off when throttle is put into idle

it will run fine when throttle is about 20%

Also I showed you: temperature and oil pressure


Plan: keep adjusting front bolt until I can get it to idle properly, and shut off properly using that lever next to right knee

compression test while running: take off intake manifold, install the fittings into glow plug area, start it and record the psi

I also can paint: engine head where manifold go in, all the levers/steering wheel/gas cap black with spray can

Then if I get far enough, start to reassemble front end, radiator etc

20240928_153218.jpg


Tried to do compression test with it running: it got past 400 then stopped working

Maybe the combustion or heat clogged it's ability to sense

Also cannot get it to stop doing seesaw effect:

Turn throttle up, rpm go up, put more pressure on springs, latch moves left, lowers throttle, lessens tension on springs, raises rpm

It will do this seesaw no matter what I adjust

Get new springs

20240928_155147.jpg


Burned sensor cannot get compression reading when engine running

Can't do compression test with engine running

Start to reassemble front of tractor and all those painted parts, and do the final touch up of blue and black

20240928_205136.jpg


Brought bunch of parts that will go on bottom of tractor: structural pieces, brackets, exhaust, shafts, etc

Tightened all bolts on top of engine and gearcase, all injectors and glow plug

Basically, assemble everything that doesn't cover the governor, work on other parts of tractor while waiting for new springs

20240928_212037.jpg


Mistake: Forgot to put this water port, need to take head off again

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Did not have to take off head, took off stud with 2 nuts, torch, and dabs of diesel on a brush

20240928_215523.jpg


Went and fetched kubota gasket for flange

Mistake I didn't put flange on head before putting head on block

20240928_232038.jpg


Getting ready to install lower parts: shafts, front end, exhaust, brackets

Lift tractor front, move support to underneath oil pan, put on front axle, put on propeller shaft, then exhaust, then brackets

20240929_001129.jpg


Brought axle using 3 point lift

20240929_011905.jpg


Put lumber position axle, use a jack to lift into place, put bolts in

20240929_025148.jpg


Can't get axle in its position, might have to take off bracket, attach it to axle, then lift them together onto the tractor
 
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