Fire Extinguisher !!!

[Magicman]

Can I get an amen that this fire extinguisher looks OK ??

And I would agree until you look into the nozzle!! Yikes!!! A dirt dauber had decided to make this it's nursery. I cleared the nest out including the inner seal.

And then taped the end such as I do on the muzzle of my rifle.

I folded the tape end back onto itself to provide a pull tab to quickly remove the tape.

 

[JRS]

The devil is in the details! Good catch.

 

[fried1765]

View attachment 70444
Can I get an amen that this fire extinguisher looks OK ??
View attachment 70445
And I would agree until you look into the nozzle!! Yikes!!! A dirt dauber had decided to make this it's nursery. I cleared the nest out including the inner seal.
View attachment 70446
And then taped the end such as I do on the muzzle of my rifle.
View attachment 70448
I folded the tape end back onto itself to provide a pull tab to quickly remove the tape.

Those plastic valve big box store extinguishers are garbage!
The plastic is prone to failure, but only when you pull the trigger....when you REALLY NEED it to work!
Metal valve extinguishers ....ONLY,... if you want an extinguisher that will be reliable!

 

[Toyboy]

No matter what type of powder extinguisher you have the powder will need "fluffing" a couple time a year, it does settle.
Turn it upside down and tap the bottom with a rubber mallet. You'll hear the change in sound as the powder breaks free.
Then shake it back & forth about 7 times and your done.
I like to do all of mine at time chage to DST and back.

 

[fried1765]

No matter what type of powder extinguisher you have the powder will need "fluffing" a couple time a year, it does settle.
Turn it upside down and tap the bottom with a rubber mallet. You'll hear the change in sound as the powder breaks free.
Then shake it back & forth about 7 times and your done.
I like to do all of mine at time chage to DST and back.

Excellent advice!
Unfortunately.....almost nobody does it!

 

[Nicfin36]

Ah, yes, the good ol' dirt daubers. One of my favorite things to deal with.

I put a bit of plastic grocery bag loosely inserted into the nozzle. Enough of a deterrent to prevent a dirt dauber from building inside the nozzle, but loose enough to blow out if I ever have to use the fire extinguisher.

 

[Magicman]

That is an excellent idea.

 

[GeoHorn]

That looks to be the exact same model of “Kidde” fire extinguisher which the company “recalled” last year and replaced with all-metal extinguishers free-of-charge.

The comment about turning them upside down and smacking them with a rubber or wooden mallet is also good (to break up the powdered-extinguishant that cakes up inside them.)

Lastly…. those powdered extinguishants work by melting and smothering the flames. Cleaning up that mess is choresome… to the point that it will ruin electrical wiring, upholstery, mechanisms, etc…. A Carbon-Dioxide…or BEST OF ALL…. a halogen type (Halon) is the best fire extinguishers to use on equipment you intend to return to service. (expecially on electronics like modern tractor circuit-boards/instrument clusters and fuel. (Halon works by tie-ing up oxygen molecules…so if you use it in a closed room or space as soon as possible get outside where you can breathe…. (In airplanes we use it but provide passenger oxygen masks.)

There are Type ”A”, Type ”B” and Type “C” fires and the extinguishers are rated for the type fire…such as a 10A:5BC extinguisher will be appropriate for fuel and electrical fires…(rated similar to 10 gals of water on wood/paper and applicable to 5 sq ft of fuel fires)….but not rated on electrical even when listed)
Note that an extinguisher that is rated only “B/C” is not effective on paper/wood/cloth/etc.

The way I was taught to remember it:

Type A is for anything that will make/leave any ASH…like paper, cloth, wood,….

Type B is for anything that will BOIL like liquids…. oil, gasoline, kerosene….

Type C is for anything that carries CURRENT…. like electrical wiring, circuit-boards, computers, ….

Hope this helps.

 

[random]

Good summary there Geo!

I had to replace 4 extinguishers in that recall - but I only remember one in 2017. You can check if yours is on the list at https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/support/product-alerts/recall-kidde-fire-extinguisher/

 

[GeoHorn]

Good summary there Geo!

I had to replace 4 extinguishers in that recall - but I only remember one in 2017. You can check if yours is on the list at https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/support/product-alerts/recall-kidde-fire-extinguisher/

Yes…. I abbreviated…it was a couple years ago, not “last” year. I replaced 4 also (had bought a 4-pak from HomeDepot)…. and Kidde sent me the recall-notice and I signed it… then after a couple weeks I called the 800-number and they apologized…. Next week 4 replacements arrived…then the week after 4 more arrived…. So I called teh 800 number again to ask what I should do about the extra 4…and they said they’d get back to me….. I’m still patiently waiting… meanwhile I’ve installed them all over the place…2017..?? really..?? Time flies..….

 

[Tarmy]

I hope you remember that tape in time of emergency…and that it hasn’t got stuck and stringy when you need a clear nozzle. Hell, a cork would be better as it would get blown out upon use…

And, as mentioned, get a good extinguisher, when you need one it may make a difference. In my vehicles and boats I use the type that will be used for grease/electrical fires. They make them with material that won’t render the engine/electronics ruined by using an extinguisher that has typical household extinguisher material that is put on a fire. Those extinguishers have a different color label and cost a bit more.

 

[fried1765]

That looks to be the exact same model of “Kidde” fire extinguisher which the company “recalled” last year and replaced with all-metal extinguishers free-of-charge.

The comment about turning them upside down and smacking them with a rubber or wooden mallet is also good (to break up the powdered-extinguishant that cakes up inside them.)

Lastly…. those powdered extinguishants work by melting and smothering the flames. Cleaning up that mess is choresome… to the point that it will ruin electrical wiring, upholstery, mechanisms, etc…. A Carbon-Dioxide…or BEST OF ALL…. a halogen type (Halon) is the best fire extinguishers to use on equipment you intend to return to service. (expecially on electronics like modern tractor circuit-boards/instrument clusters and fuel. (Halon works by tie-ing up oxygen molecules…so if you use it in a closed room or space as soon as possible get outside where you can breathe…. (In airplanes we use it but provide passenger oxygen masks.)

There are Type ”A”, Type ”B” and Type “C” fires and the extinguishers are rated for the type fire…such as a 10A:5BC extinguisher will be appropriate for fuel and electrical fires…(rated similar to 10 gals of water on wood/paper and applicable to 5 sq ft of fuel fires)….but not rated on electrical even when listed)
Note that an extinguisher that is rated only “B/C” is not effective on paper/wood/cloth/etc.

The way I was taught to remember it:

Type A is for anything that will make/leave any ASH…like paper, cloth, wood,….

Type B is for anything that will BOIL like liquids…. oil, gasoline, kerosene….

Type C is for anything that carries CURRENT…. like electrical wiring, circuit-boards, computers, ….

Hope this helps.

The Carbon Dioxide and Halon extinguishers are EXPENSIVE!
For affordable extinguisher protection, dry chemical extinguishers (with metal valve) are the way to go.
Clean up is ugly, but the item in question is saved from destruction by fire.

 

[GeoHorn]

The Carbon Dioxide and Halon extinguishers are EXPENSIVE!
For affordable extinguisher protection, dry chemical extinguishers (with metal valve) are the way to go.
Clean up is ugly, but the item in question is saved from destruction by fire.

You are quite correct, fried…it’s difficult to foresee all possibilities…..and they are not cheap…. BUT…they are a LOT cheaper than an instrument cluster that may have been repairable if it weren’t sprayed-down with a dry-chemical extinguisher.

I‘m thinking of my older brother who bought a dry chemical ext. for his car. One day he was driving along and saw “smoke” coming out from the AC vents in his dash and pulled out that extinguisher and discharged it into every vent in the car.

The dealership charged him $2200 in labor to disassemble his entire interior and panel and heater/AC coils and clean them out and put it all back together. Diagnosis: No evidence of a fire.

I asked my bro‘ if the “smoke” had any SMELL to it…. He said “No.”
I said, “I hate to tell you this…but in a vehicle fire the smoke will have a nasty SMELL…. but condensation “fog” from an air conditioner is only moisture and will not.”
(When my sister and I talk about our older brother we sometimes think Daddy may have pulled-out early.).

Continental Airlines have twice made emergency-returns after. takeoff from Houston Intecontinental when the cabin alerted the crew to ”smoke” in the cabin…. which turned out to be condensation-fog from the overhead vents.

 

[torch]

Lastly…. those powdered extinguishants work by melting and smothering the flames. Cleaning up that mess is choresome… to the point that it will ruin electrical wiring, upholstery, mechanisms, etc…. A Carbon-Dioxide…or BEST OF ALL…. a halogen type (Halon) is the best fire extinguishers to use on equipment you intend to return to service.

All true, but if you are going to use a CO2 (or Halon) extinguisher, make sure you have a dry-chem standing by for backup. Unfortunately, gaseous extinguishing agents are a one-shot deal -- there is no lasting after-effect to prevent re-ignition. The same residue that makes dry-chem extinguishers somewhat problematic also makes them more effective at keeping the fire extinguished.

Look at it this way: if the CO2 puts out the fire, then perhaps something is salvageable. If it re-ignites, then you have nothing left to lose by switching to dry-chem.

The best all-round general purpose extinguisher is an ABC dry chem.

One last observation: if there is any possible obstruction to your escape path (eg: tractor is parked inside the barn) make sure the extinguisher is at least as big as the burning object. Otherwise you are best to make your escape and call for help (does not apply to aircraft in flight! <lol>). The average person has little practice using an extinguisher and the supply is limited. Trying to tackle a fire that is too large for the extinguisher just places you in danger.

If the tractor is outside in the field and you can hit the burning object from outside the cab, then you have no obstruction to your escape so have at it. Just remember to aim at the burning object at the base of the flames, not at the flames themselves.

 

[jimh406]

While we are on fire extinguishers. I’ve found this type of quick release mount to be pretty solid. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CMR5W3F/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_PS9MG2KZX3GA0KQMH553?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[SAR Tracker]

Excellent advice!
Unfortunately.....almost nobody does it!

Standard maintenance in military settings. Good advice!

 

[ACDII]

One word, Insurance.

As long as whatever you have is covered by insurance, does it really matter IF a dry chem is used? The important thing is getting the fire out so it doesn't spread and cause serious damage, let insurance take care of the rest. I carry them in both trucks, just in case. If a fire breaks out and can be extinguished before it takes over, great, if not, it at least helps with getting anything important out of the vehicle before it gets consumed.

 

[Magicman]

Here is a New Holland Skid Steer that I kept from burning to the ground back in June with two of those Kidde Replacements.

 

[fried1765]

View attachment 70587
Here is a New Holland Skid Steer that I kept from burning to the ground back in June with two of those Kidde Replacements.

I keep one 5 pounder aboard my Kubota TLB.
Your metal head 2-1/2 pounder is good.
The other....not so much!

 

[fried1765]

You are quite correct, fried…it’s difficult to foresee all possibilities…..and they are not cheap…. BUT…they are a LOT cheaper than an instrument cluster that may have been repairable if it weren’t sprayed-down with a dry-chemical extinguisher.

I‘m thinking of my older brother who bought a dry chemical ext. for his car. One day he was driving along and saw “smoke” coming out from the AC vents in his dash and pulled out that extinguisher and discharged it into every vent in the car.

The dealership charged him $2200 in labor to disassemble his entire interior and panel and heater/AC coils and clean them out and put it all back together. Diagnosis: No evidence of a fire.

I asked my bro‘ if the “smoke” had any SMELL to it…. He said “No.”
I said, “I hate to tell you this…but in a vehicle fire the smoke will have a nasty SMELL…. but condensation “fog” from an air conditioner is only moisture and will not.”
(When my sister and I talk about our older brother we sometimes think Daddy may have pulled-out early.).

Continental Airlines have twice made emergency-returns after. takeoff from Houston Intecontinental when the cabin alerted the crew to ”smoke” in the cabin…. which turned out to be condensation-fog from the overhead vents.

Former Continental pilot?