dismantling backhoe cylinders

[aribert]

I am assuming that the endcaps on these cylinders are threaded on



Is this correct? If so, how much effort will be required to break the endcap free (guestimate please: 100 ft-lbs, 150 ft-lbs, 200 ft-lbs? or much different? Open to any suggestions and advise on how to dismantle the cylinders. Other than when being used, the backhoe spent its life indoors for the past 35+ years so (visible) rust at the endcap/cylinder joint appears to be minimal.

If not threaded on, how are they removed? I may have gotten the cart before the horse - I posted a question asking for someone to measure the end cap dia on an L650 (http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39931) so that I could fab the required spanner(s), then I searched for any info on effort in removing the endcaps and found this thread: http://www.orangetractortalks.com/f...7176&highlight=effort+unscrew+cylinder&page=2 and in this backhoe the endcap retention is via a formed "key".

I'll be visiting my mother in Texas (where the tractor is) for a few days in mid March and I figured I would rebuild a few of the cylinders while I am there. That means that any special tools need to be sent there in advance.

 

[Lil Foot]

From your pics it looks like these end caps are threaded; all the threaded end caps I have done were considerably less than 100 ft lbs, more like 20 ft lbs.
I have a set of pin spanners like this one, (bought at garage sale for $10) with hooks, pins, and arms in various sizes. Pretty handy for such things.
https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Adjustable-Hook-Wrench-Spanner/dp/B01AW44BVM

 

[aribert]

Thank you for the reply.

I was expecting the end caps to be really tight. If not so tight, I am wondering if I could stick a couple of short bolts into the pin holes and grab the heads of the bolts with a large pipe wrench - I already have access to a 24 inch pipe wrench on site. I don't want to grab the end cap directly with the pipe wrench.

 

[rentthis]

Thank you for the reply.

I was expecting the end caps to be really tight. If not so tight, I am wondering if I could stick a couple of short bolts into the pin holes and grab the heads of the bolts with a large pipe wrench - I already have access to a 24 inch pipe wrench on site. I don't want to grab the end cap directly with the pipe wrench.

I use a pipe wrench. It does mar the cylinder but not so much that I can't live with it.

 

[lugbolt]

Theres a little trick to getting them loose. The "cap" (actually called a head gland, or just gland) threads in about 2" roughly into the barrel. Sometimes they get rusted and if they do, there's generally no saving it. Before you try to hit it with the pin spanner or the monkey wrench, grab a brass or copper hammer, pop it a few times around where the threads will be inside the barrel. Not hard, just a few light taps. They usually come right out...if not it's likely rusted and at that point, most of them require total replacement. I've had one out of a few hundred that I could salvage and that one was really questionable.

 

[aribert]

rentthis:
I am trying to avoid marring the cylinders as I am getting the tractor ready for sale. Worst case I know that I have pipe wrenches available if needed.

lugbolt:
Thank you for the detailed info! Its these little tricks that can save significant time (and parts).