Cylinder Head decompression Lever

[Green Planet]

I changed my fuel filter and think I may have got some air in the fuel lines and I need to bleed the system. I have an L3400 3cyl, I was watching the tutorial on how to bleed the system, the tutorial is from orangetractortalks, it was done very well. My question is this....

Does anyone know if I have a cylinder decompression lever on this model ?????

I don't have one on the dash, but I don't know if it is located somewhere else under the hood. I don't want to spend time looking for a lever I don't have.

Thanks in advance for your time and help

 

[Sammy3700]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

I may be wrong but I do not think you have one.

 

[85Hokie]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

I changed my fuel filter and think I may have got some air in the fuel lines and I need to bleed the system. I have an L3400 3cyl, I was watching the tutorial on how to bleed the system, the tutorial is from orangetractortalks, it was done very well. My question is this....

Does anyone know if I have a cylinder decompression lever on this model ?????

I don't have one on the dash, but I don't know if it is located somewhere else under the hood. I don't want to spend time looking for a lever I don't have.

Thanks in advance for your time and help

The level would be on the dash (push - pull )- or if not you can see a rod coming out of the valve cover......

here is a linkage for one ....

 

[Daren Todd]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

They did away with the decompression lever in the early 80's. Yours doesn't have one

just bleed the air out of injection pump. Then try to start. If it doesnt start, then loosen the injection lines at the fuel injectors. Crank motor over in 15 second intervals till fuel spurts out of each injector. Tighten injection lines and start the tractor

 

[D2Cat]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

I would disregard all the previous answers and start looking! It will help you become more familiar with your tractor. The more you understand it first hand the easier it is to solve problems, or prevent them.

 

[85Hokie]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

Daren, my new to me 1990 B7100 model has one!

I aint smart enough to use it .....then again it aint running right now either! Gonna be soon!

But I too bet he aint got one!

 

[Daren Todd]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

Daren, my new to me 1990 B7100 model has one!

I aint smart enough to use it .....then again it aint running right now either! Gonna be soon!

But I too bet he aint got one!

Ok, i stand corrected To use the decompression lever is easy. Pull it out

Crank engine over with it pulled out. Once engine spools up to cranking speed, push lever back in to engage compression while still cranking engine

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

Daren, my new to me 1990 B7100 model has one!

I aint smart enough to use it .....then again it aint running right now either! Gonna be soon!

But I too bet he aint got one!

Your "new" B7100 is geared right?
If it is, it's not a 1990 they quit making those in 1985.
Your "Old" B7100 is a hyrostat and it doesn't have a decompression lever.

 

[Green Planet]

Its OFFICIAL, I do not have a cylinder decompression lever.

 

[85Hokie]

Re: Cylinder Head decompression Lerer

Your "new" B7100 is geared right?
If it is, it's not a 1990 they quit making those in 1985.
Your "Old" B7100 is a hyrostat and it doesn't have a decompression lever.

Well,

unless someone placed an OLDER engine in my 1990 HST ......

it has the lever - and yes I know how to use it (just aint use to it - due to my `92 model)

I have the 1992 model - and nope it aint got the lever.

SO how do I know it is a 1990? Well - the serial number on the frame says it is, and the stamp on the rear wheels says when they were made - both are 1990......

now - the hour meter is shot, so - could there have been an engine swap - possible, the engine is the correct engine, then again - I'll go and find the stamping on it.

NIW - what should the stamp numbers be on the D750?

[/IMG]

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks for showing the plate, I do believe that would be a grey market b7100HSTD, french version I think.
It's very rare to find one in the USA, probably was owned by someone in France or french Canada.

It follows the rule of the older HST's and yes that odd bugger has a Decompression lever, and I bet a completely different front axle than you other one, They are 2 different versions of the same tractor.

 

[85Hokie]

Thanks for showing the plate, I do believe that would be a grey market b7100HSTD, french version I think.
It's very rare to find one in the USA, probably was owned by someone in France or french Canada.

It follows the rule of the older HST's and yes that odd bugger has a Decompression lever, and I bet a completely different front axle than you other one, They are 2 different versions of the same tractor.

Sean,

I'll check the front axle.....

but look at these numbers on the injector pump and head - and tell me if they tell any story:

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

 

[D2Cat]

85Hokie, I think there should be an additional letter and digits before the number 738753 under the fuel line nut. Something like D750-A 738753. The D750 identifies that specific engine.

 

[85Hokie]

85Hokie, I think there should be an additional letter and digits before the number 738753 under the fuel line nut. Something like D750-A 738753. The D750 identifies that specific engine.

I'll dig more ----

but I went back out and looked over all the parts......as NIW suggested, everything is the exact same as the 92 model....howEVER....

there is one sticker on the dash - THAT IS NOT on the 92 model, of course it is under the Decomp knob

[/IMG]

there are several places on the 92 and 90 model that are both in english and french too. I looked at the front axle - could not see anything different.

I also find it strange that the serial number is earlier than what is posted on tractordata.com......

the first ones to come back to the US were : 1991: 63826

and yet this guy is a few ahead @ 61299...... maybe this guy did fly south a couple years back!

 

[D2Cat]

85Hokie, I think there should be an additional letter and digits before the number 738753 under the fuel line nut. Something like D750-A 738753. The D750 identifies that specific engine.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Welcome to the fun of owning a B7100!
You never know what you get!

There is quite a few quirks to them and not everything is 100% cast in stone!
Just when one thinks he knows all there is to know another quirk happens along.

 

[zdanman]

This is how you do it....

If the air vent valve doesnt work (which is located on the return fuel line from the injectors) then do this....

What you will need:

17mm box wrench
Charge/Jumper box that plugs into a wall
Eye Protection
FULL fuel tank

1. With the tractor off, fuel tank full, loosen the rear injector nut (17mm, injector closest to gas tank) until you are able to shake the injector line a little ensuring it is loose and will leak fuel out (which is the intent). No need to loosen all the way, just a bit until you can wiggle the injector line.

2. Hook up a charge box to the battery - set it to Jump (either 40A or 200A).

3. Crank the tractor while watching the rear injector... keep cranking with 15 second intervals until you see fuel SHOOT out of the top of the rear injector nut (not "seep out" but "SHOOT/squirt" out) with a good amount of pressure. If the tractor begins to run, just shut it off... and keep cranking. If you still see air bubbles coming out with fuel, then keep going. Give starter a break after 15 second intervals.

4. Tighten rear injector nut.

5. Do the same for the middle injector... only this time... if it starts to run... let it run at idle RPM. The middle cylinder will be missing but that is ok at idle RPM.

6. After fuel is squirting out the middle injector with a good amount of pressure, turn OFF tractor and tighten middle injector nut.

7. Go ahead and loosen front injector nut until you can shake fuel line loose. Start tractor. Let run at idle RPM until you see the fuel shooting out from front injector. All air bubbles should be gone by now. A kubota mechanic told me to tighten the front injector back up with the engine running, but I would recommend on here that you shut the tractor off... and then tighten the front injector back up.

8. After the front injector is tightened back up, you should be able to start the tractor and it should run idle smoothly and no fuel should be leaking anywhere of course. Let it run ONLY IDLE for a while. And you can open the air vent valve to let any remaining air escape the lines. Let it run like this at idle for 10 minutes.

9. CLOSE the air vent valve. Then rev the RPMs up to the 540 mark (2200 rpm or so) and run there for 2 minutes. If there is any air in the lines left, the tractor will begin to stall at high RPMs like this... just let the RPMs drop back to idle and run with the air vent valve open for several more minutes.

10. After this is done, CLOSE the air vent valve back up. All done.

 

[D2Cat]

zdanman, how does your post relate to a decompression lever? Sounds like your giving instructions for bleeding air from the fuel system?

 

[tomashaig]

zdanman, how does your post relate to a decompression lever? Sounds like your giving instructions for bleeding air from the fuel system?

Quite agree, it has nothing to do with decompression levers, but on the other hand, it is bleeding useful ! ( Sorry).