The drive chain on my BX5450 Snow Blower broke. I've bought theOEM repair part, but it seems to be one sprocket gap too short. I've counted links and it appears to be the right size, and the same as the one that broke. Not sure how to close the gap. Suggestions? Thanks!
BX5450 Snow Blower Drive Chain Problem
- Thread starter mdougher74
- Start date
At the bottom of the snowblower, on the rear, you will find 2 bolts and nuts that raise and lower the drive gear. Loosen those nuts a little, and put the gear and housing upward. Then run the chain around the bottom of the gear and back up onto the smaller gear. Do this on both sides and the chain will meet in the middle, and you will be able to insert the master link. Once the master link is inserted, then push the lower gear downward till the chain is where you want it. It shouldn't be under tension, but it shouldn't be too loose either. Tighten the two bolts and you are almost done. Don't forget to lubricate the chain with your preferred oil or chain lubricant. Lube the chain about every 8 - 10 hours of use. Also check all nuts, bolts, and Allen screws to make sure that everything is tight. Snowblowers do a great job but need constant vigil to make sure that they are in tip-top condition.
Thank you! I figured out how to raise and lower the lower sprocket... But the sprockets areway out of alignment. Probably why the chain broke. I believe that I've adjusted the top sprocket to its max (towards the tractor), but I need to move the lower sprocket in (towards the snowblower) about 1/4". Ideas?
There is a set screw that holds the sprocket from walking in or out. I peened a spot on the shaft, then with the sprocket slid down the shaft, drilled into the shaft lightly, so the set screw goes into that spot, just where it needs to be. Problem solved! I still need a new chain every couple years. I purchased a 10’ box of chain and 5 links, for about the same price of getting one chain ready made. If you can use a grinder with a cut off wheel, you can make your own chains for much less.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
comment:
ALL chains tend to stretch a wee bit from use, so it is important to check tension and tighten 'as required'.
same applies to Vee belts.....
ALL chains tend to stretch a wee bit from use, so it is important to check tension and tighten 'as required'.
same applies to Vee belts.....
BAP
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Tip on roller chain, spend the money to buy whatever size roller chain you need, wether it be #40, #50, #60 and so in a H version. That means you would instead be buying #40H, #50H, #60H and so. They are the same size chain fitting the same size sprockets, but built much heavier. Also, they last longer.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There are also tools to pull the chain tighter together to get the master link in without fighting too much. You may not have any room or need for one but the tool makes it easier in general.
I also try to replace the master link when replacing the chain. Eventually the sprockets will be worn and need replacing also.
I also try to replace the master link when replacing the chain. Eventually the sprockets will be worn and need replacing also.
Be sure if they were running out of line for any period of time that your sprockets are not heavily worn. This one came off a used BX5450 that I bought. I ended up replacing both sprockets and the chain as a precaution and due to the horrible grinding sounds it made even once aligned properly.
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Thanks everyone. YNot, thanks for the photo of your sprocket. Judging from the looks of mine, its probably in need of replacement. What do you think? The bottom sprocket looks brand new.
How do I get this big sprocket off?
I've removed the two set screws, but it seems like the axle is flared at the end, and while i can get some movement, it stops dead when the sprocket is flush with the end of the axle.
It seems like any adjustment in the alignment of the sprockets is intended to come from moving the top sprocket. I appear to be about 1/4" short of what I need. Is my only option to move the lower sprocket, or is there some way I might be able to adjust the top axle out to get the additional reach that I need? Any advice?
Grateful for you all.
How do I get this big sprocket off?
I've removed the two set screws, but it seems like the axle is flared at the end, and while i can get some movement, it stops dead when the sprocket is flush with the end of the axle.
It seems like any adjustment in the alignment of the sprockets is intended to come from moving the top sprocket. I appear to be about 1/4" short of what I need. Is my only option to move the lower sprocket, or is there some way I might be able to adjust the top axle out to get the additional reach that I need? Any advice?
Grateful for you all.
My upper sprocket was also tight. Once I made up my mind to replace it, I used a two jaw puller to pull it off the shaft. Once removed, I used some fine sand paper to clean up the shaft at the edge until the new one went on with only minor resistance.
If your lower gear is like mine, it is welded onto the small shaft. You have to adjust its placement by loosening up the set screws or collars on the two bearings it runs through. Once they are both loose that shaft should be able to be pushed into those bearings more. Past moving that shaft, there is no way to move the sprocket on the short shaft itself.
If your lower gear is like mine, it is welded onto the small shaft. You have to adjust its placement by loosening up the set screws or collars on the two bearings it runs through. Once they are both loose that shaft should be able to be pushed into those bearings more. Past moving that shaft, there is no way to move the sprocket on the short shaft itself.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I suggest moving sprocket as far away from end of shaft.... grab key real good with vicegrips, whack vicegrips to pull key out of sprocket and shaft, take file and lightly smooth the end of shaft.
sprocket will come off.
yes, you may need a new key, though chances are you can just fille off any burrs the VG jaws made....
sprocket will come off.
yes, you may need a new key, though chances are you can just fille off any burrs the VG jaws made....
If yours is very tight, this is probably a much safer approach than mine. Fortunately, mine just needed a small pull, didnt have to really crank on the puller.
Lots of good advice above. I can say from past experience that the snowblower mounts loosen as well as the set screws. I suggest using a mild Loctite product to secure the parts after you clean them. I have started using Nylock nuts along with lock washers because of the vibrations that loosen the bolts on the snowblowers.
If you take the damaged sprocket to a local bearing store, there is a good chance that they will have what you need in stock, assuming that you live in or near a larger metropolitan area. I purchased a 10' spool of chain from Tractor Supply, cut it into the correct size, and probably got about 8 chains out of the spool.
If you take the damaged sprocket to a local bearing store, there is a good chance that they will have what you need in stock, assuming that you live in or near a larger metropolitan area. I purchased a 10' spool of chain from Tractor Supply, cut it into the correct size, and probably got about 8 chains out of the spool.
Looking at the end of the shaft looks like it's been hammered on and mushroomed the end of the shaft. From what I can see your going to first have to get rid of that burred end. If you can just leave the sprocket on this way you won't be grinding the shaft where its not needed to be. Either using a small die grinder or a file. You could use a angle grinder as well if you have the room. Take off only as much material as yo need to at the end of the shaft. . BTW if you go a little to deep don't sweat it as the sprocket sits further on the shaft then the end.