BX25 Work Lights

[NewfyDad]

I finally have a new BX25 after years and years of driving an old Yanmar 240. In anticipation of plowing snow this coming winter I want to install forward-facing and rear-facing work lights on the ROPS above my head. The easiest mounting method would entail drilling four 5/16" holes through the top of the ROPS.

In other threads I sense a lot of controversy about drilling any holes through the ROPS, but really, is there any evidence to suggest a few small holes would compromise its integrity and ability to withstand a rollover or is the sentiment simply based on "I wouldn't want to take the chance"?
Heck, even HAVING a ROPS is a big step up for me after almost 20 years with that ROPS-less Yanmar.

I'm on the fence and undecided whether to drill or not to drill. Would appreciate some opinions (and evidence?). Thanks.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I'd say stay away from drilling. If the BX25 is brand new and under warrenty, drilling holes will void the warrenty. And to me there's just to much of a "grey" area risk involved in the even you do happen to turn the tractor over. I know the past 20 years you have kept it rubber side down but ya just never know in life.

 

[wills670]

This is what I did with my b2620 they are grote led light and pull 1.3 amps each.

 

[skeets]

This is just MHO ofcourse, if gawd forbid, you should roll the beast and the ROPS fails, even though the holes you drilled had nothing to do with the failure, the Company would fight you/your family over paying anything out for damages or for the demise of you or some one else using the tractor.
Do as you will but I have seen things like this happen before. like I said just MHO. Willis has a good set up, I bolt and unbolt my lights to the top of the ROPS using clamps and bolts and take them off in the summer cause tree limbs will clean them bad girls right off,,, Dont ask

 

[Wildfire]

I'd say stay away from drilling. If the BX25 is brand new and under warrenty, drilling holes will void the warrenty. And to me there's just to much of a "grey" area risk involved in the even you do happen to turn the tractor over. I know the past 20 years you have kept it rubber side down but ya just never know in life.

This is just MHO ofcourse, if gawd forbid, you should roll the beast and the ROPS fails, even though the holes you drilled had nothing to do with the failure, the Company would fight you/your family over paying anything out for damages or for the demise of you or some one else using the tractor.
Do as you will but I have seen things like this happen before. like I said just MHO. Willis has a good set up, I bolt and unbolt my lights to the top of the ROPS using clamps and bolts and take them off in the summer cause tree limbs will clean them bad girls right off,,, Dont ask

Some of the best advise I've seen on this site. Good going guys. NewfyDad listen to these guys.

 

[Kytim]

My opinion, for what ts worth, YES lights, NO drilling. Its really not hard to make a usable bracket to mount them.

 

[NewfyDad]

Thanks for your thoughts and opinions. I'll do it without drilling.

So I went to Lordco today (we dont have Autozone or any of those other great stores) prepared to buy four LED work lights. All they had on the shelf was Grote LEDs at $195 EACH.

After I regained consciousness and quit choking I went to the sales desk and explained what I was doing and asked if there was anything suitable at a lower price. He messed with his computer for a while and told me "No, they're all around that price range."

I guess I'll be shopping online......

 

[Kytim]

Take a look at Pauls lighting thread here. there is a link where he bought them inside the thread. It might meet your needs.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Another great option for lights too is AW Direct, they have a wide varity of lights plus wiring and switches if you need them.

http://www.awdirect.com/truck-lighting/

 

[wills670]

Thanks for your thoughts and opinions. I'll do it without drilling.

So I went to Lordco today (we dont have Autozone or any of those other great stores) prepared to buy four LED work lights. All they had on the shelf was Grote LEDs at $195 EACH.

After I regained consciousness and quit choking I went to the sales desk and explained what I was doing and asked if there was anything suitable at a lower price. He messed with his computer for a while and told me "No, they're all around that price range."

I guess I'll be shopping online......

I see you are a little North of me and that might explain the price. I ended up giving a little over 100.00 each for mine, at the time after thinking about the possibility of upgrading the charging system to handle regular light verus led lights I went with the led lights. The way I mounted the lights they turn so I was able to get away with two lights so it made it a little better for me to justify the expense of the led lights. Here are a couple of pictures of the way I ran the wires thru the base. I ended up drilling a 1/2 bolt cutting a little off of the head and welded a all metal locking nut on the inside of the bracket so I could adjust the tension. Good luck.....

 

[4rider]

wills670 nice led work lights set up. I wish I have folding ROPS on my Kubota B7100 so I can make similar to yours mounting brackets. I do consider adding work lights to my tractor.
How did you connect your LEDs? Did they required you to add resistors to lower the voltage? Or they have build in resistors and regulators?
Anything specific to the way you wired in your LEDs?
Thanks,

 

[wills670]

wills670 nice led work lights set up. I wish I have folding ROPS on my Kubota B7100 so I can make similar to yours mounting brackets. I do consider adding work lights to my tractor.
How did you connect your LEDs? Did they required you to add resistors to lower the voltage? Or they have build in resistors and regulators?
Anything specific to the way you wired in your LEDs?
Thanks,

No they only require 12 volts and I picked up the factory wires under the rear fender. The wireing is pretty straight forward just ran and hot and ground to each light I did open up the harness and ran the wire to the other side inside the existing loom and then buttoned the loom back up. By only pulling 1.3 amps each I was able to get away with some light wire and then ran them thru the bent brake line. On the brake line I did braze the clamps in place and then attached them by the studs. The mounting was with 1/2 bolts I drilled and then welded an all metal lock nut so I could run the wires thru and pivot the lights in any direction.

The lights are expensive I will not deny that but the low current draw offset the price for me and also they are made in the USA so that was a plus also. Hopefully they will give me many years of sevice without any trouble.