If the cenerline is close to true vertically horrizontal slotted mounting holes in the base and shims should suffice.
Dan
B7200 hydraulic steering
- Thread starter Paul Allwood
- Start date
Dan
Paul Allwood
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, homemade FEL, front flail mower, forks & ballast box, tiller
I have some more questions....
Is it better to tap into the existing hydraulics to feed the new steering pump, or better to use a separate reservoir and filter ?
If I keep the systems separate, is a spin on style filter (see below) in the return line to the reservoir a good choice, or is there something better ?
If I buy or make a separate reservoir, is bigger better ? My thinking is that a greater volume of oil and larger reservoir surface area will help with cooling.
Many thanks.
Is it better to tap into the existing hydraulics to feed the new steering pump, or better to use a separate reservoir and filter ?
If I keep the systems separate, is a spin on style filter (see below) in the return line to the reservoir a good choice, or is there something better ?
If I buy or make a separate reservoir, is bigger better ? My thinking is that a greater volume of oil and larger reservoir surface area will help with cooling.
Many thanks.
You have 4 gallons in the sump and a 4 GPM pump on the tractor. Significant head room there. What size PS pump are you contemplating? i would think pretty smsll.
A suction side screen and return side filter would be optimal and an improvenent over OEM.
Paul Allwood
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, homemade FEL, front flail mower, forks & ballast box, tiller
Thanks Dan.
When I get to the shed today I'll see if I can work out where to tap in for supply and return lines.
The pump I've bought is 4.9 ml/rev. So 12.2 l/min, 3.2 GPM at 2500 rpm. That gives me 1.9 GPM at 1500 rpm - the tractor isn't much use below that.
Are you saying that the filter I've pictured above would be suitable for the return side ?
Suction side screen - is that something that would be fitted into the suction line to the new pump ?
When I get to the shed today I'll see if I can work out where to tap in for supply and return lines.
The pump I've bought is 4.9 ml/rev. So 12.2 l/min, 3.2 GPM at 2500 rpm. That gives me 1.9 GPM at 1500 rpm - the tractor isn't much use below that.
Are you saying that the filter I've pictured above would be suitable for the return side ?
Suction side screen - is that something that would be fitted into the suction line to the new pump ?
I have used these with great success.
Spin on filter head
surpluscenter.com
Suction side wire mesh strainer
surpluscenter.com
Return side paper filter
surpluscenter.com
Lotz of other posdibilties.
Dan
Spin on filter head
ZAF-07-25-O Zinga Filter Head
surpluscenter.com
Suction side wire mesh strainer
AE-100 Replacement Filter Element 141 Micron Zinga
surpluscenter.com
Return side paper filter
Replacement Filter Element 10 Micron Zinga AE10
surpluscenter.com
Lotz of other posdibilties.
Dan
Paul Allwood
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, homemade FEL, front flail mower, forks & ballast box, tiller
Paul Allwood
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, homemade FEL, front flail mower, forks & ballast box, tiller
Today I made the bits to mount the double-ended steering cylinder.
Retracted
Extended
Due to the larger diameter front tyres I fitted a while ago, space is pretty tight. The current long drag link only just fits....
....so fitting the steering cylinder, whether it's the one I'm using or if I was using the more standard type, will take some care.
Here's the new assembly somewhere near where it will end up.
Retracted
Extended
Due to the larger diameter front tyres I fitted a while ago, space is pretty tight. The current long drag link only just fits....
....so fitting the steering cylinder, whether it's the one I'm using or if I was using the more standard type, will take some care.
Here's the new assembly somewhere near where it will end up.
Paul Allwood
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, homemade FEL, front flail mower, forks & ballast box, tiller
It seems like such a normal thing that the first version of anything I make doesn't work. I don't know why I bother with it - may as make the version 1 bits, put them straight back in the scrap rack, and get started on version 2 (or 3, or 4....).
The original plan of mounting the double ended cylinder using a ball joint at the end of the tube I added was so close but I couldn't quite get it to fit. I'm aiming to have the pivot in line with the centreline of the cylinder to minimise any sideways force. With the side to side movement of the axle and the lock to lock movement of the front wheels something always seemed to hit. If I moved the pivot point to fix one problem I found another.
So version 2 it is. I mocked up some bits to try another idea, still aiming to pivot along the cylinder centerline. I had to make bits solid enough to try the idea and position it properly as there still isn't lots of spare room and it's next to impossible to just hold things in place well enough without good support.
This pivot allows left and right, and up and down movement with the force along the cylinder centerline.
Straight ahead
Full lock right
Full lock left
In each of these positions, and with the front axle tilted fully left and fully right, nothing hits. The closest is about 1/2" between the tyre tread and the cylinder rod - this is the same as with the existing standard long drag link fitted.
Next I'll make a proper version of this pivot.
The original plan of mounting the double ended cylinder using a ball joint at the end of the tube I added was so close but I couldn't quite get it to fit. I'm aiming to have the pivot in line with the centreline of the cylinder to minimise any sideways force. With the side to side movement of the axle and the lock to lock movement of the front wheels something always seemed to hit. If I moved the pivot point to fix one problem I found another.
So version 2 it is. I mocked up some bits to try another idea, still aiming to pivot along the cylinder centerline. I had to make bits solid enough to try the idea and position it properly as there still isn't lots of spare room and it's next to impossible to just hold things in place well enough without good support.
This pivot allows left and right, and up and down movement with the force along the cylinder centerline.
Straight ahead
Full lock right
Full lock left
In each of these positions, and with the front axle tilted fully left and fully right, nothing hits. The closest is about 1/2" between the tyre tread and the cylinder rod - this is the same as with the existing standard long drag link fitted.
Next I'll make a proper version of this pivot.
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