B7200 crankshaft oil leak

torch

Well-known member

Equipment
B7100HSD, B2789, B2550, B4672, 48" cultivator, homemade FEL and Cab
Jun 10, 2016
2,596
841
113
Muskoka, Ont.
Well I tackled this job today. On the B7100 it's pretty much mandatory to remove the hood, radiator and fan shroud. And of course, the belt. Things went pretty much as expected up to and including removing the balancer, although I did have to switch from a 3 arm puller to a 2 arm puller due to clearance issues when it was 1/2 way off.

It wasn't until I attempted to remove the shaft key that things went pear shaped. I had a bear of a time getting that thing out -- it was a press fit. I tried grabbing it with pliers - they slipped. Then vice grips -- they slipped. Then diagonal side cutters -- they bit in but didn't budge it. Finally I used an inductive heater to heat the shaft, the side cutters to grip the key and a pry bar between the side cutters and shaft to wiggle the key out.

Then I tried to get the collar off.

It pulled back until it reached the key slot. I don't know if the edge of the key slot was raised at the factory when they pressed that damn thing in or by me trying to get the key out, but I spent the next 30 minutes gently working the edge with a jeweler's file to make it round again so I could slide the collar off.

More time was spent making a new key. 3/16" key stock is a touch too small, this one is 5mm with rounded ends. I milled l down a piece of 1/4" key stock to fit. If I knew then what I know now, I would have ordered a new key at the same time as the other parts.

The old seal popped out easily, as did the o-ring. Speaking of which: I ordered one and got a bag of 5. Oh well, they were cheap enough. A standard seal driver won't work for installation due to the crankshaft sticking out, and a deep socket wasn't long enough. Fortunately I have a few custom drivers I made for installing motorcycle fork seals and one of those was close enough. The collar did indeed have a groove worn into it by the seal, so it was a good thing I had ordered one of those.

The rest of the reassembly went smooth enough. I couldn't find a torque spec for the crankshaft balancer nut in the FSM, but did find the spec online (116 ft-lbs). No more leaks, so it was worth it in the end. And it was just about due for an oil and A/F change so I killed three birds with one stone. Four actually -- I changed the fan belt while it was off too.

But I wish I had ordered that key with the other parts.

Just to add insult to injury, I was going to upload pics of the process but when I transferred them to the computer just now, I discovered I must have touched the lens with an oily glove. Arrrggghhh.
 

johndeerebones

Member

Equipment
B7200 HST-D RC-60-72, L4200 GST MFWD with FEL
Aug 17, 2020
105
14
18
USA
To the op. Doubt hyd oil is into crankcase. A good oil level is no indicator. Even small leaks make a big mess. Drain and refill the engine oil. Mark dipstick wih a Sharpie. Refill trans/hyd oil (pay attention to loader, 3pt, etc. IE should be in lowest position) and Sharpie it. Monitor both, all questions answered...
 
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