B7100 timing set/check?

[Kenonf]

HI,
Timing is off I believe on my B7100 HST. I know that the shim stack I started with should not change when replacing a pump, however it has I believe.

Between a cracked head and a bent governor fork during an ill fated pump install and Bunion surgery, the repairs moved twice in the shop over the 6 months I was busy on other things. I have 1 parts motor(bad crank) and 1 hopefully good motor with another bad head. so replacing the governor fork is not a problem.
The bent fork did not let the motor move the throttle so the motor would bog down and quit, figured that out. Timing just does not seem right.

I have tried and tried to figure out timing via the flywheel, trying to see the fuel bump and anticipate it is a bit difficult to say the least.
How do you do it in the real world? A pressure gauge? Hang an injector and watch for a squirt?
Depth gauge on another d750?

Thank you
Ken

 

[85Hokie]

Ken,

I wish I could help - however, there are at least 3 people that I know here that will ask more questions and have great answers. Just give it some time and those will answer.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Timing will never change via the shims.
Not even if you were to change pumps.
The shims are matched to the block not the pump.
It will however change if you added gasket sealer to the shims.
Or if you removed the fuel cam and didn't set the timing on the gears correctly.

Most commonly when people think the timing is off, it's actually a bad injector popping too quickly.

You can do a spill test, it's in the manual how to do it.
It doesn't require anything more than a way to turn the engine and an eye on the pump output.

 

[Sdatrucking]

HI,
Timing is off I believe on my B7100 HST. I know that the shim stack I started with should not change when replacing a pump, however it has I believe.

Between a cracked head and a bent governor fork during an ill fated pump install and Bunion surgery, the repairs moved twice in the shop over the 6 months I was busy on other things. I have 1 parts motor(bad crank) and 1 hopefully good motor with another bad head. so replacing the governor fork is not a problem.
The bent fork did not let the motor move the throttle so the motor would bog down and quit, figured that out. Timing just does not seem right.

I have tried and tried to figure out timing via the flywheel, trying to see the fuel bump and anticipate it is a bit difficult to say the least.
How do you do it in the real world? A pressure gauge? Hang an injector and watch for a squirt?
Depth gauge on another d750?

Thank you
Ken

Have a similar problem bought a 7100 that pump was missing no shims so no idea of number on it previously started with 5 really loud clatter at idle sounds like timing clears when revvved so guess it’s back to drawing board tear it apart and remove a couple of em trial and error till it sounds right

 

[Kenonf]

Hi,
Swapped bent governor fork, front main oil seal was leaking anyway...
put it back together and we are off and running.

I previously installed a temp sensor in the top radiator hose and topping out at 205 degrees while bushhogging at full throttle. It was in the low 50' here while my son was mowing.
I did the overflow tank upgrade, and am running 75% distilled water and 25% antifreeze.
I don't remember the top to bottom temperature difference when we were chasing the overheat issue (cracked head) before, but it was a good 20-30 degrees if I remember right.
It was not continuing to get hotter, and boil over like it was, so I think we are good to go.

Ken

 

[85Hokie]

Hi,
Swapped bent governor fork, front main oil seal was leaking anyway...
put it back together and we are off and running.

I previously installed a temp sensor in the top radiator hose and topping out at 205 degrees while bushhogging at full throttle. It was in the low 50' here while my son was mowing.
I did the overflow tank upgrade, and am running 75% distilled water and 25% antifreeze.
I don't remember the top to bottom temperature difference when we were chasing the overheat issue (cracked head) before, but it was a good 20-30 degrees if I remember right.
It was not continuing to get hotter, and boil over like it was, so I think we are good to go.

Ken

Cutting back on the antifreeze will help a bit - and 205 is money!!! Sounds perfect so far.

Do not be surprised if the water level is about an 1" below the next of the radiator - this is normal.

The difference between top and bottom radiator temps should be closer to 100 F