B7100 - new guy here.

[mykidsdadd]

Hello everyone. Thanks for accepting me !

Need some help. I looked through as many post as I could and unless I am overlooking it don’t see the exact same issue, I may be dealing with multiple.

After many many years of dreaming of owning my own tractor I had one practically ( not literally) fall in my lap. I am admittedly on cloud nine with this deal. I purchased a B7100D with brush hog , tiller and front loader for 500.00 bucks. I am in heaven! Or will be as soon as i get it going. A little history. I witnessed the machine working less than 2 years ago so can’t imagine I bought anything too awful bad. First time diesel owner also so please bear with me as I learn. I am somewhat mechanical and grew up poor so can fix most things. The tractor has a new battery, new battery cables starter tested fine, tested volts to starter and all appears to be as should. It sounds like the starter is trying to turn it over but basically just get a short thud or ka-thunk. Fan blade moves a fraction of a fraction of an inch. I have put it in a high gear to see if I can roll it and get it to free but nada. I pulled top of injectors off and tried the same and nada. I can barely move fan by hand but only spins fan and not pulley. I am a little worried it may be locked up but really hoping it is maybe electrical? There is a blade connector on starter separate from the post for the battery cable. This was very corroded and I replaced connector. I do not get any voltage reading on that , should I ?

I think that covers my issue and I would greatly appreciate any feedback and glad to answer questions.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

You have a sized engine, most likely from water/ moisture getting into the engine and affecting the pistons, rings and cylinder walls.

First pull the injectors out completely, along with the sealing rings if they are not already stuck to the injectors, it does no go just pulling the tops of the injectors.

Then mix some 50/50 acetone and ATF pour a cup or so in each cylinder screw the injectors in a little bit and let it sit, a couple day's later do the same again and let it sit.
I would suggest pulling the seat metal and the radiator to make it much easier to get a pipe Wrench onto the end of the crank, remove the injectors again, and do not use excessive force, and try turning the crank both directions, if it moves turn it several revolutions to make sure it free moving then if that works then you can crank it with the starter.
if that worked drain the oil and replace oil and filter with new.
If it didn't work try it again for a couple more weeks, then repeat,
If it still doesn't work your infor a engine rebuild.

Also even if it does break loose you still could be in for an engine rebuild as there still might be damage.

 

[mykidsdadd]

Thanks Wolfman. Sort of what i feared. Next question, is this machine worth it to rebuild?

 

[D2Cat]

You may find it easier to remove the starter and turn the engine over with a large screwdriver/pry bar. Also, keep the engine covered while you have the injectors loose to prevent any further moisture entrance.

Welcome to the forum. We've had quite a few new folks from the state of Oklahoma lately, what going on down there?

Keep posting to let us know your progress/questions.

 

[mykidsdadd]

Thanks, I will try it. Going to pull injectors tonight and get something in there to start soaking. I may use the flywheel to turn it , easier than taking the loader and radiator and whatever else off it looked like. I am certain there is water in it. The exhaust was ran vertically with a 45 turn on the top and facing the west, it rained buckets upon buckets this year for a solid month. Not a stretch that water made its way into the engine.

Just hot and muggy here! Honestly been a mild summer here , saw some lows in the low 60’s and highs in low 80’s a couple weeks ago which was very nice for July. Big rain next few days so should be nice for tinkering in the barn with my new project.

I appreciate the feedback guys. Looking forward to this little project even if I end up doing a rebuild on it.

 

[mykidsdadd]

Can I simply partially reinstall injectors while it is soaking to keep more moisture out ?

 

[D2Cat]

Yes, just thread the in a few turns, but don't need to tighten them with a wrench.

And oh, cover that exhaust!!

 

[mykidsdadd]

Ha ! For sure , it’s in my barn now and that’s where she will stay when not in use. I sure don’t understand why she left the tractor outside like that. She had a lean to with nothing in it but I guess some people just don’t know.

 

[Bill Groom]

What a deal you found! I would give my eye teeth to stumble on that!! Even if you have to replace the engine (unlikely) you have a small workhorse now. Good luck resurrecting her, good times ahead.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[mykidsdadd]

Thanks Bill. I am very excited about it. I do small tree jobs and have turned gew few tracts of land because I couldn’t get my truck to the better timber, this should allow me to get some wood out and open up some work for me. Can’t wait to get her going !

 

[D2Cat]

I'm pretty sure on the bottom of the exhaust manifold there was (at least originally) a hole at the lowest point. That was for just such cases of water entering the exhaust pipe. I think they get rusted up because they are about the diameter of a toothpick.

I had an L2050 that had the same problem. It had enough water enter the engine, get past the rings and set long enough through at least one winter to freeze and crack the oil pan. I mixed the ATF and Acetone 50/50 in a quart jar and poured in down the exhaust pipe (it was sticking straight up). That's the way the water got in there, so I figured my soaking fluid could do the same thing. Left if for a week or so. I soon had pink colored fluid seeping around the exhaust clamp and every where else. I eventually pulled the head, cleaned things up, got a new oil pan, replaced a couple of freeze plugs, and then found the clutch needed replaced. But it was a good working tractor.

You got a deal. That loader is a jewel that is very difficult to find, and it's already mounted to the tractor!

 

[mykidsdadd]

Ok I will look at that too. I don’t guess it will hurt to pour solution there and in injectors. Stands to reason if that’s where water got in then that’s a good starting place.

 

[D2Cat]

The SOONER the better!! (did you get that?)

You can buy qt. cans of acetone in Walmart paint section, or any hardware store.

 

[mykidsdadd]

I did get that ! And believe me I am counting down to the regular season !! I will pick up the acetone on my way home and get started tonight!

 

[D2Cat]

I use the least expensive ATF I find at the store. However, you can use any light weight oil with good results (if you have some in your inventory). The thinner the better.

 

[torch]

and try turning the crank both directions, if it moves turn it several revolutions to make sure it free moving then if that works then you can crank it with the starter.

I would expand on that by stressing that once you get some movement you should continue to rock it back and forth gently, allowing it to gradually loosen up and move further and further at its own pace. Avoid the temptation of prematurely reefing it all the way around. Once you can rotate it without excessive force you can carry on with moving it several revolutions, etc.

Also, make sure the transmission range lever is in the neutral position between high range and low range. No point in trying to spin the drivetrain.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Don't try and turn the motor at all with the injectors in it as you will hydrolock it and that's not good (you'll bend / break parts).

If you get enough fluid trapped in the exhaust you'll have to pull the exhaust off to clear it out before you can get it to run.

I have 2 B7100 HST's here right now, both have newer different engines than the stock D750, The older of the two is a D950 and the other a D850.

I bought the D950 running to replace a dead D750.

The D850 was in the other B7100 when I got it, but it too was seized up like yours, it didn't break loose and needed a full rebuild, now runs like motor runs like new!

Count on about $1000 in parts to rebuild it, and another $500 to $1000 if it needs machine work like sleeves installed and bored.

Is it worth it, I say yes, a B7100 with a loader is worth quite a bit.

 

[mykidsdadd]

Yeah even another 2k I think I am still ok on the deal. Thank you.

 

[mykidsdadd]

So a couple updates. Got the injectors out and solution in and it’s soaking. Covered with a rag to keep out any extra junk. The far right was full of oil and the other two dry. The middle one bubbled some and then had brownish looking bubbles rising to the top , I assume this is a good thing. Took the starter off to see if I am going to be able to use flywheel to try it and just isn’t the room with arm for loader. I am going to work tomorrow on getting to the front crank but looks like it may be a little tough also. I also am a complete moron. I failed to remove the valve cover and managed to break one of the little tits off the injectors, I guess I will just purchase new ones and start fresh. Also noticed the starter gasket was missing when I took it off so I will replace that as well.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

So a couple updates. Got the injectors out and solution in and it***8217;s soaking. Covered with a rag to keep out any extra junk. The far right was full of oil and the other two dry. The middle one bubbled some and then had brownish looking bubbles rising to the top , I assume this is a good thing. Took the starter off to see if I am going to be able to use flywheel to try it and just isn***8217;t the room with arm for loader. I am going to work tomorrow on getting to the front crank but looks like it may be a little tough also. I also am a complete moron. I failed to remove the valve cover and managed to break one of the little tits off the injectors, I guess I will just purchase new ones and start fresh. Also noticed the starter gasket was missing when I took it off so I will replace that as well.

Not really understanding why you need to remove the valve cover to remove the injectors, and how not having it off would affect the injector removal???

A cylinder full of oil is a bad thing, I'm betting it's filled with water and oil on top of that.

You might as well just start pulling the head, because if it's full of water it ain't going to break free.

Oregon fuel injectors for the injectors, any you find on line are going to be sub par!