B7100 Dipstick

Lil Foot

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Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
May 19, 2011
7,287
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Peoria, AZ
I was checking the engine oil in my B7100 when the previous owner stopped by to chew the fat. He saw the dipstick and said it should be straight, with no bends in it. I told him he must be mistaken, the stick had two bends in it since he sold it to me, 7-8 years ago. He insisted, so I did a search, and found he was mistaken. All images I found look like mine. So I'm posting in case anyone else has the same question. 1st pic is mine, part # 1537136411, other pics are off the net.
IMG_0063.JPG s-l1600.jpg tp10039_01.jpg dip#.jpg
 
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85Hokie

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Jul 13, 2013
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AS you can imagine the bent part will go down and be somewhat vertical to bottom of the pan.
The loop typically points away from the block thus making the bent part tuck back away from any moving parts.

That little rubber stopper will move on you ...... I have one that someHOW the PO broke the bottom of the dipstick OFF right at the fill mark.

I took it out and hammered the hell out of the end making the metal a little thinner but longer, got it to grow a bit then moved the stopper up a bit, epoxied that and took a hack saw and scored a new notch in the stick at the correct level based on another exact stick.

Now you are making me go home and "look" at my stick(s) .........
 

Lil Foot

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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
May 19, 2011
7,287
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Peoria, AZ
I had heard that about the rubber part moving, but so far mine is solid.
 

Lil Foot

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1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
May 19, 2011
7,287
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Peoria, AZ
I suppose the smart thing to do would be to measure the rubber stopper location now, so that if it does move, I'll know where it is supposed to be.
 

dworthington

New member

Equipment
B7100
May 15, 2023
4
0
1
Battle Ground, WA
I was checking the engine oil in my B7100 when the previous owner stopped by to chew the fat. He saw the dipstick and said it should be straight, with no bends in it. I told him he must be mistaken, the stick had two bends in it since he sold it to me, 7-8 years ago. He insisted, so I did a search, and found he was mistaken. All images I found look like mine. So I'm posting in case anyone else has the same question. 1st pic is mine, part # 1537136411, other pics are off the net.
View attachment 49598 View attachment 49599 View attachment 49600 View attachment 49601
Well - it just happened to me. First oil change on my new (old) ca 198X B7100. PIA btw - not at all as easy as it looks on YouTube. Frame/loader is different, engine enclosure had to be removed to access the oil filter - obviously a loooong time since its last removal - gotta figure out how to mod the enclosure for easier access...

Anway, finally got it drained and a new filter in place. Put in the first quart of new oil. Pulled the dipstick to check the new oil level. Wouldn't come out until i REALLY tugged on it, THEN it came out - but the rubber stopper stayed with the engine block. I was able to force it back over the flat part, but now it's loose on the round part. I would say my dipstick is deformed as well - yes it's got a bend - more than one in fact, lol. But the point is - I don't know where I could/should epoxy it in place. I suppose I could assume that the 3.5 (3.5+ maybe 3.6) US quarts is the correct level - but does anyone have like a precise measurement I could get for correctly positioning on the dipstick? Or I guess I could just buy a new one for $30 on ebay - but this old thing needs just about one of everything - including many nuts bolts and fasteners - I'd just as soon fix/repair eveything I can....

Speaking of which: In removing the engine enclosure, I had to remove the hood(?). When I did that, I had my first access to the radiator. Figured I'd check the coolant. It looked pretty good, actually. But when I tried to re-install the cap, it wouldn't seat. Inspecting it, I noticed the collar was broken - nothing for the cap to seat against in a critical spot. Obviously somebody had broken it at some point in the past (and this from a supposedly "one owner" tractor that had been "babied" - yeah, right). My question: usually with cars, radiator damage like this is just not normally repairable. But is that true for these old Kubota's as well? I see "new" ones listed for sale from $165 to over $500. Comments? Suggestions?
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Jun 9, 2013
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Sandpoint, ID
Well - it just happened to me. First oil change on my new (old) ca 198X B7100. PIA btw - not at all as easy as it looks on YouTube. Frame/loader is different, engine enclosure had to be removed to access the oil filter - obviously a loooong time since its last removal - gotta figure out how to mod the enclosure for easier access...

Anway, finally got it drained and a new filter in place. Put in the first quart of new oil. Pulled the dipstick to check the new oil level. Wouldn't come out until i REALLY tugged on it, THEN it came out - but the rubber stopper stayed with the engine block. I was able to force it back over the flat part, but now it's loose on the round part. I would say my dipstick is deformed as well - yes it's got a bend - more than one in fact, lol. But the point is - I don't know where I could/should epoxy it in place. I suppose I could assume that the 3.5 (3.5+ maybe 3.6) US quarts is the correct level - but does anyone have like a precise measurement I could get for correctly positioning on the dipstick? Or I guess I could just buy a new one for $30 on ebay - but this old thing needs just about one of everything - including many nuts bolts and fasteners - I'd just as soon fix/repair eveything I can....

Speaking of which: In removing the engine enclosure, I had to remove the hood(?). When I did that, I had my first access to the radiator. Figured I'd check the coolant. It looked pretty good, actually. But when I tried to re-install the cap, it wouldn't seat. Inspecting it, I noticed the collar was broken - nothing for the cap to seat against in a critical spot. Obviously somebody had broken it at some point in the past (and this from a supposedly "one owner" tractor that had been "babied" - yeah, right). My question: usually with cars, radiator damage like this is just not normally repairable. But is that true for these old Kubota's as well? I see "new" ones listed for sale from $165 to over $500. Comments? Suggestions?
The radiator might be repairable, the issue come to finding someone that will do it, most radiator shops have closed up.
So your best bet is to buy a new radiator.
And yes a new dip stick too.
Careful as you can buy some parts cheaper from places like Coleman Equipment or a local Kubota dealer for cheaper than eBay or amazon seller have them for.
 

dworthington

New member

Equipment
B7100
May 15, 2023
4
0
1
Battle Ground, WA
The radiator might be repairable, the issue come to finding someone that will do it, most radiator shops have closed up.
So your best bet is to buy a new radiator.
And yes a new dip stick too.
Careful as you can buy some parts cheaper from places like Coleman Equipment or a local Kubota dealer for cheaper than eBay or amazon seller have them for.
Thanks. New ones on the way... and so the parts buying spree begins, lol.