B6100 The Saga Continues.

[FishLife]

I wanted a small tractor to move some trailers around in my driveway that is to tight to maneuver with my truck. I was really excited to find this tractor. I felt like I was getting a deal for what I paid. Well it seems the seller is the one who was getting the better deal. I don't feel like I was mislead in any way. The engine is the main concern at this point from a monetary standpoint. I'm trying to decide at what point to just call it a loss and chalk it up to a learning experience. From what I saw before buying the tractor was it really only needed a minor amount of parts replaced or fixed. It needs some new seals, tie rod ends, bushings for the pin that holds the front axel on to the frame, little rewiring, and few other things. If you take the engine out of the mix the tractor is in pretty good condition. All the sheet metal is good and straight with just minor surface rust here and there a few minor dings. Paint is faded but thats not a big deal. No rusting through or mangled sheet metal. The only part that needed fix due to rust was where the battery sits. I was going to make make a new battery tray but I found that whole piece on eBay so I just got it to keep everything original. After addressing the issues mentioned above, I believe this tractor will last the rest of my lifetime with how it care for my stuff.

So back to the engine. I posted some of this this in other threads but I will just do a quick rundown. When I ran the tractor before purchase everything ran fine. no smoke, strange sounds, no hesitation starting. Motor seemed good. After I bought it I started tinkering I opened a can of worms. I noticed the after playing around for a while the hour meter was reading the same as when I bought it. As I was taking the gauge out I noticed the low oil light bulb was missing and from the looks of the socket had been for sometime. I got a new bulb and it comes on while the engine in running. Other OTT members have helped diagnose the low oil problem and I have proceeded with the repair. I Then noticed a broken head bolt, rear main seal leak. To fix the rear main I would have to split the tractor and to fix the low oil pressure problem I have to remove the front end. I got the engine pulled today and was going to just put a new head bolt but now have noticed the engine looks like it has over heated. The paint on the head behind the fuel take is cooked. also some of the small expansion plugs in the block are leaking oil.

The tractor runs and does what I want for now. Im trying to decide now just how far to go into the motor inspecting or just repair what I have found so far, button it up and call it a day. I guess I could maybe at least pull the head and look but may not like what I see. I don't know.


I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so I'm told. I have built and fabricated a lot of stuff but never have I done any serious engine repair.

Thats it.

 

[torch]

From your other thread, you have good compression. You say in this thread that the engine runs smooth. I assume that if there were any unpleasant knocks or other noises, you would have mentioned it.

Based on that, I personally would not bother with major engine repairs. Just fix the oil leaks & camshaft plug for now. Since you have it apart now, and since the friction plate is oil contaminated, go ahead and replace the clutch consumables.

Perhaps some day the engine will need further attention because of accelerated wear due to low oil pressure, but these are tough little machines. I'd enjoy it until then an if that day ever comes, consider upgrading to a D750/850/950 then.

Just my 2¢.

 

[Fastdonzi]

Probably too late now, But Checking with a Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge would Confirm whether your oil pressure was good or not. I don't know if there's a way to spin your oil pump in the state you motor is in now ( Like Priming the Oil Pump in a Gasoline engine with a drill) depending on what you have to take apart to replace the seals and such it may be a good time to go in and have a look. I personally like the satisfaction of taking one apart and putting it back together just knowing that i've pretty much seen everything in there, then if a problem arises i have a better understanding of what/where etc.... Good Luck

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Probably too late now, But Checking with a Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge would Confirm whether your oil pressure was good or not. I don't know if there's a way to spin your oil pump in the state you motor is in now ( Like Priming the Oil Pump in a Gasoline engine with a drill) depending on what you have to take apart to replace the seals and such it may be a good time to go in and have a look. I personally like the satisfaction of taking one apart and putting it back together just knowing that i've pretty much seen everything in there, then if a problem arises i have a better understanding of what/where etc.... Good Luck

He did gauge it before teardown (multiple threads on this, yes getting a little confusing).

You can't spin the pump up because the front gear case cover (which is removed) has the filter, pressure relief valve, and oil pathways built into it.