B6000 fuel leak

[cappys tractor]

Good day:
B6000. Ran it out of fuel. In process of bleeding it, I loosened the injector lines. It seemed that the forward injector would never spit any fuel. So I completely removed it. Blew it out with compressed air. Reinstalled it.

Now comes the question/problem. Started it up. Now it runs poorly, with quite a lot of fuel leakage from that injector line. NOT where I disconnected it, but the fitting directly below.


The thin yellow line. Is this fitting supposed to come loose? Is there a gasket or brass oring under it? Anyone have an idea what lurks beneath?

I tried removing the injector line and re tightening the fitting. No improvement. The fuel leakage is NOT coming from injector line nut. It is coming from this fitting where it screws into fuel pump.

 

[D2Cat]

Here's a thread that explains your problem. To find more info you might try a search of something like "fuel leaking at injection pump".

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29454&highlight=fuel+leak+injector+pump

 

[cappys tractor]

Here's a thread that explains your problem. To find more info you might try a search of something like "fuel leaking at injection pump".

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29454&highlight=fuel+leak+injector+pump

That's the cats meow. Thanks

After looking at parts, it seems no parts are specified for a B6000. But B7100 and 6100 show them. Are the parts (O Ring and Gasket) interchangeable between the B6000 and B6100?
John

 

[D2Cat]

John, when you take it apart be careful with the parts. They are small and won't fall out, but if they do you need glasses to find them!! Have your tractor in a clean work area. While your there with the tools, you just as well do both valves. The 0-rings should be easy to find, metric suitable for diesel.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's the cats meow. Thanks

After looking at parts, it seems no parts are specified for a B6000. But B7100 and 6100 show them. Are the parts (O Ring and Gasket) interchangeable between the B6000 and B6100?
John

Parts for the B6100, B7100, or any other models for that matter are not the same as the b6000.
The B6000 has a unique pump as far as I know.

Here is b7100 seals, they consist of a copper washer and O-ring:

The seals for the delivery valves and pumps on a B6000 are a composite of brass and rubber and they are obsolete, I use a Nitrile O-ring and a copper seal to fix them.
You will note: There is no O-ring at the top of the Delivery valve holder on the B6000.
If you do not have to, do not attempt to remove the seals as doing so will destroy them.

Here is the seals from a b6000 pump, yes it's destroyed.

Old seals:

The pump layout:

My new home made seal:

 

[cappys tractor]

John, when you take it apart be careful with the parts. They are small and won't fall out, but if they do you need glasses to find them!! Have your tractor in a clean work area. While your there with the tools, you just as well do both valves. The 0-rings should be easy to find, metric suitable for diesel.

Sounds like a good reason to get the pressure washer out and clean the old girl off.

In addition to the orings, is the thickness of the copper gasket critical? How is the timing of the injection pump adjusted? Are there other shims that are not part of this dis, and re assembly? Is this gasket and oring part of the injection pump calibration? Reluctant to take apart more than I need, and certainly don't want to mess up the injection timing.


Thanks, John

 

[cappys tractor]

@ North Idaho Wolfman

Thanks for the detailed pics. Now for some clarification.
The first pic, Is this all that will come out when I unscrew the part? I wasn't planning on taking the entire injection pump out.

The second pic, the leak is coming from the shoulder at yellow arrow. Is there no gasket or oring here?

Wondering why the leak comes up threads, when the machine finish isn't sealing?

Now that you show me this. there was a small chunk in the orifice when I took off the injection line. Probably part of the failing oring/gasket inside.

Thanks for the pics and details.
And especially thanks for taking the time during working on these to document it with Pics! So helpful and professional.

 

[D2Cat]

Timing is only changed when the shim under the IP flange is changed. You don't need to remove the pump. You're working on the delivery valves on the top.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

@ North Idaho Wolfman

Thanks for the detailed pics. Now for some clarification.
The first pic, Is this all that will come out when I unscrew the part? I wasn't planning on taking the entire injection pump out.
View attachment 36364
The second pic, the leak is coming from the shoulder at yellow arrow. Is there no gasket or oring here?
View attachment 36365
Wondering why the leak comes up threads, when the machine finish isn't sealing?

Now that you show me this. there was a small chunk in the orifice when I took off the injection line. Probably part of the failing oring/gasket inside.

Thanks for the pics and details.
And especially thanks for taking the time during working on these to document it with Pics! So helpful and professional.

When you unscrew the delivery valve holder (part that the injection line screws to), only the spring and delivery valve will come out.

First thing to do is when you loosen the fuel injector lines check to make sure that the delivery valve holder is tight to the injection pump, if it was loose, tighten it up and reattach the fuel injection lines and recheck for a leak.

If it was tight and leaking, then remove the delivery valve holder, remove the spring and the delivery valve.
Inspect the seal under it, it should be a nice and shiny brass seal if it's damaged it's going to need to be rebuilt, (not super easy on that model and not easy to explain as there are several adjustment made to the pump to make it work right.
Send me a PM and I can help with the rebuild.

If the seal is not damaged then you can add a .01 thick copper washer to it it get the delivery holder to seal.

Timing of these pumps is done internally and via shims under the pump.

There is no gasket or seal at the top shoulder of the deliver valve holder of this pump, it all seals at the bottom seal, and no you can not just add an O-ring to get it to seal.

 

[RBratton304]

Hi guys I am having the same issue with my B6000 pump however I need help on how to dismantle it. The original composite seals are in bits and need to be removed. I have PM’d wolfman for some help I hope he doesn’t mind! I will also need help to re align everything.