aftermarket 3 point hitch set up issues with b7000

[semlin]

i am a newby having trouble with an aftermarket 3 point kit working with cat 1 implements on my jdm b7000. i am wondering if i have set this up wrong or the hitch kit is the wrong size? i have compared the 3 point mount point to a friend's b7100 and they seem to be identical width so i think the issue is either my setup or the kit.

the problem is it is very hard to spread the arms to fit the implements and when you finally do and then bring it in the outboard check chains interfere with the tires on uneven ground or corners. this is on 26" wide (inside) cat 1 implements and the problem is the same on three different implements.

i have tried various levelling arm settings and i find i can't adjust the check chains more than a partial turn beyond minimum length. it seems like the lift arms are too short to achieve the correct spread without tire interference but this 3 point kit is specifically sold for the small b series tractors and i believe i am correctly installing the check-chains according to the instructions.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

There are multiple different ways you can do it.
You need to move the check chains to the inside of the arms.

Try moving them here:

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

arms reversed / wrong side??

 

[hodge]

That's a generic hitch set, so it isn't a perfect fit for your tractor.
As Wolfman suggested, move the stabilizers inside the lift arms. You may need to tweak things a little, but that should allow the stabilizers to function better. As installed, they are too parallel to the lift arms to do the job, much less being unable to adjust.
From the looks in the photo, part of your issue is the implement- the frame looks too wide for the tractor. Turn the link pins to the inside, and see if that helps.

 

[Russell King]

From the looks in the photo, part of your issue is the implement- the frame looks too wide for the tractor. Turn the link pins to the inside, and see if that helps.

It looks like the implement is using a clevis style pin configuration.

Go get the pin size for your lift arms and install them instead of the pin configuration and face them pointing inside in the inner plate.

Pins like this

Category 1 Hitch Pins for Tractor 3 Point pin Draw Pin 3 Point Hitch Parts fo... | eBay

FEATURE: Our Hitch Pins for Tractors are Made from mild steel, this hitch pin has excellent durability, is finished in Yellow zinc-plated steel, and can resist rust and corrosion. Used to secure the shafts and axles of towing appliances.

www.ebay.com

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

One other observation if you drilled new holes (green line) much further down on these brackets and moved the joints closer to the arms it would work much better.

 

[semlin]

thanks guys. it is assembled based on the drawing it came with, but i will try reversing the check chains.

i am fairly sure the lift arms are the right way around. there is also a pair of spacer rings i will need to figure out.

 

[yyri]

I had same issue with my B6000, linkage arms would interfere with tyres.
Previous owner had moved the check chains inside the lower link arms but that wasn't enough. I narrowed my grade blade and 3pt trailer hitch-ball attachments (welded new brackets for grade blade and chopped+welded the 3pt trailer hitch) to be ~500mm wide instead of 660mm. After that no problems.

 

[hodge]

This angle, indicated in yellow, is all wrong. I do believe that you have assembled the 3 point as the designers intended, but for your model tractor, the configuration is not copacetic. The stabilizers need to not be parallel with the lift arms, and their mounting point must be further apart from the lift arm mount. Otherwise, they do can not control the movement of the arm- the leverage is too great on the stabilizers. Whether intended or not, moving them to the inside of the lift arms will allow them to function better.

You are working through making an extremely generic hitch set work on your specific tractor. It is what it is, and the suggestions you are getting will go a ways towards making life easier. In addition, you may benefit from wheel spacers, if you can't mitigate interference with the tires. However, switching the link pins will give you the clearance you need, on this particular implement.

 

[semlin]

I had same issue with my B6000, linkage arms would interfere with tyres.
Previous owner had moved the check chains inside the lower link arms but that wasn't enough. I narrowed my grade blade and 3pt trailer hitch-ball attachments (welded new brackets for grade blade and chopped+welded the 3pt trailer hitch) to be ~500mm wide instead of 660mm. After that no problems.

do you have the original kubota implement arms? they seem to be straighter and longer than what i have.

all my implements are roughly 660mm (26") point to point and that seems to be standard cat 1 spacing. i can't alter some of them.

 

[Vigo]

You may have to drill it out to a bigger size, but it looks like you could leave the existing 'yoke' mounts in place and simply replace the bolts here with Cat1 pins facing inward. Not everybody has a 7/8" drill bit but luckily 'stepper bits' that include 7/8" are pretty common and cheap.

It seems like your setup would be completely workable if you simply relocate the stabilizers to the inside. If you do so make sure to keep them tensioned enough to keep the end of those eyelet bolts from snagging on your tire lugs. I have learned first hand you can rip a tire lug partially or completely off a tire by snagging it on a sturdy enough bolt.

 

[semlin]

You may have to drill it out to a bigger size, but it looks like you could leave the existing 'yoke' mounts in place and simply replace the bolts here with Cat1 pins facing inward. Not everybody has a 7/8" drill bit but luckily 'stepper bits' that include 7/8" are pretty common and cheap.
View attachment 123221

It seems like your setup would be completely workable if you simply relocate the stabilizers to the inside. If you do so make sure to keep them tensioned enough to keep the end of those eyelet bolts from snagging on your tire lugs. I have learned first hand you can rip a tire lug partially or completely off a tire by snagging it on a sturdy enough bolt.

i can order pins but i have a tiller and bin forks with the same problem. i'd rather fix the 3 point to fit cat 1 implements than modify every implement just to fit this tractor. if rejigging this does not work i will purchase kubota lifting arms on the assumption those will work.

 

[semlin]

In addition, you may benefit from wheel spacers, if you can't mitigate interference with the tires.

is there a commercial set of wheel spacers for the older kubota models? i am adjusted to maximum right now but i was looking this morning at whether i could reverse the hubs on the rims so they bolt up from the inside which would give me more clearance. picture of my hubs and what looks like the same part online. if these can be reversed on the rim and mounted facing inside then i gain 4" of wheel space and the interference issue i have is significantly diminished.

 

[Vigo]

Yes you can absolutely do that. That's how mine are set up.

I think your 3pt arms are going to be 'usable' after flipping the stabilizers inward and moving your tires outboard a bit, and i dont think you'll need to buy OEM arms.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

This angle, indicated in yellow, is all wrong.

View attachment 123198

agree check chains not going to help any sway like that.


Plus lift arm balls out of alignment. Why I suggested trying to swap out arm L/R and R/L to correct the tweaked angles and test spacing.

 

[semlin]

ok, i now have a tentative set up that seems to work. does this levelling arm angle look ok? it is now connected to the lift arm closer to the tractor than before and also more flared.

to do this i reversed the axle hubs on the rims and this picked up 2" extra spacing per side (i can actually increase that one more step if need be).

then i relocated the check chains to the centre, and then to get them to attach to the lifting arms i had to reverse the lifting arms and reverse the two holes in the lifting arms.

the overall result is very flared but it seems to clear the tires and line up to the implement and beyond. i can reduce the flare a little using the locking adjustment bushings once it is all back together.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I would try flipping the arms so the long side is towards the tractor and the short side is towards the implement.

 

[semlin]

I would try flipping the arms so the long side is towards the tractor and the short side is towards the implement.

if you mean the lifting arms they are already flipped that way and it is the only way they fit. i would need to drill a new hole to install them in the manufacturer's alignment because the check chains won't reach.

if you mean the levelling arms i am not sure i follow.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

if you mean the lifting arms they are already flipped that way and it is the only way they fit. i would need to drill a new hole to install them in the manufacturer's alignment because the check chains won't reach.

if you mean the levelling arms i am not sure i follow.

So the lift link hole and the check chain hole are not the same size?

 

[semlin]

So the lift link hole and the check chain hole are not the same size?

the 2 holes in the lifting arm are the same size.

i will take some better photos tomorrow. i didn't get this finished today as i had to run into town for some parts.