A DOH moment & a question...
- Thread starter Mike_B
- Start date
That makes sense, mine is made by Modern, not sure what model. I bought it new when I bought my last tractor the massey 430 (I think that was the model )
Do you know much about Modern Equipment? I have a dealer in my area and they sound like they make quality products but since you own one what do you think about them?
The one I bought was apparently a light model. The scarifiers (spelling) have the cut out on the wrong side (on the front) so the break fairly easy. If the cut out was on the back side it would be a lot stronger. I have also cracked it along the bottom side, and bent the pins and mount a few times. Overall I don't like it, but it may be just because it was a light duty model. I can't speak for there heavy duty models. Sorry I could not be of more help. For the record, if I buy another box blade I doubt it would be a modern.
That's good info to have. The guy close to me sells lots of their bushhogs but said he can get anything they produce. I have considered one of their batwings. Seem to be really heavy built and have lots of nice features for the money.
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I have a Modern Ag 4 foot shredder and am happy with it. It seems fairly well built.
I am disappointed in only two things:
1) like most equipment they don't crown the top so water will run off at all. In fact they make it so you really can't "park" it and tilt it in any manner to have all the water run off.
2) it is not galvanized like they state their larger products are. So of course, mine has already started rusting.
I am disappointed in only two things:
1) like most equipment they don't crown the top so water will run off at all. In fact they make it so you really can't "park" it and tilt it in any manner to have all the water run off.
2) it is not galvanized like they state their larger products are. So of course, mine has already started rusting.
You're not talking about 'earthmoving' if you just trying to smooth out small dips and humps.
I think you'd work yourself to death with a boxblade.
Did the same thing and with a little patience a good job results. Try a disk harrow and drive around discrete dips in circles gradually spiraling inward. If numerous dips then drive in strips one end of the place to the other.
Pay attention to lay of land, don't do it all at once, leave grassy areas to contain runoff and save your topsoil.
Depending on soil type after a heavy dew early in morning or after light rain drag the disc'ed area with a spike-tooth harrow (or drag old tires or railroad iron) to work out the lumps.
Get a little growth back where last disc'ed then move over and cut up a new area adjacent.
May take a few repeat passes but you'll gradually see the place level out.
Don't cut too fine so grasses come back fast and dust is reduced.
Consider dragging crossways to disc path and discing the next cut at right angles---you're trying to smooth, not till.
That said, you mention gardening: disc is handy to prep a garden area. Also great for cutting firebreak(s) around the place.
Spring-tooth harrow might work but better for pure garden cultivating than moving soil when compared to disc.
Implements? Brushhog (for rough cutting; finish mower if conditions allow), box blade, disc, gin pole, 6-way swivel-angle blade if cleaning or cutting ditches, bale spear (if needed), rear fork attachment.
I think you'd work yourself to death with a boxblade.
Did the same thing and with a little patience a good job results. Try a disk harrow and drive around discrete dips in circles gradually spiraling inward. If numerous dips then drive in strips one end of the place to the other.
Pay attention to lay of land, don't do it all at once, leave grassy areas to contain runoff and save your topsoil.
Depending on soil type after a heavy dew early in morning or after light rain drag the disc'ed area with a spike-tooth harrow (or drag old tires or railroad iron) to work out the lumps.
Get a little growth back where last disc'ed then move over and cut up a new area adjacent.
May take a few repeat passes but you'll gradually see the place level out.
Don't cut too fine so grasses come back fast and dust is reduced.
Consider dragging crossways to disc path and discing the next cut at right angles---you're trying to smooth, not till.
That said, you mention gardening: disc is handy to prep a garden area. Also great for cutting firebreak(s) around the place.
Spring-tooth harrow might work but better for pure garden cultivating than moving soil when compared to disc.
Implements? Brushhog (for rough cutting; finish mower if conditions allow), box blade, disc, gin pole, 6-way swivel-angle blade if cleaning or cutting ditches, bale spear (if needed), rear fork attachment.
I have used the rear blade a lot as well as the box scraper. I'd say the box with the digger teeth is great to get thing ready for final grading. Moving some dirt with the box also is great. However, for final finishing grading I prefer the front end loader and then backing up with the bucket angled down some, depending on how much earth to move. Adjusting that bucket angle as the work requires. Varying the down pressure also is required, but the ups and Downs of the tractor over the hills and valleys are much less of an influence on the job. As a guess as to the angle of the bucket bottom, I'd say around 10 degrees seems to work fine, pointed down..
You can do some final work going forward, but this time you angle the bucket edge up and you "smooth" the loose earth with the bottom of the bucket "mushing" it along. I'd think it takes a real expert to go forward with the cutting edge of the bucket doing the work. I have turned the bucket all the way around to "down" and used the scraping ability of the bucket, but again difficult to do nicely.
You can do some final work going forward, but this time you angle the bucket edge up and you "smooth" the loose earth with the bottom of the bucket "mushing" it along. I'd think it takes a real expert to go forward with the cutting edge of the bucket doing the work. I have turned the bucket all the way around to "down" and used the scraping ability of the bucket, but again difficult to do nicely.
Mike_B
New member
Equipment
B2320 w/MMM & FEL, & a bunch of Stihl power equipment. Lincoln SA250 for repairs
With 23 hp can I run a 5ft box blade or will I be limited to 4ft? I have little to no roots & mostly sand!
F Area
F Area
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I pull a 4ft box blade with my B6100 2wd with ease most of the time. And sometimes I feel like I can pull more. I say you should be fine with a 23hp tractor and a 5ft box.
I just did exactly as described in the first message. I've got a roughly 1/6 acre side yard where the dogs have free reign for the most part. Holes dug and filled in, septic cleanout over a year ago, some irrigation lines and such, some gopher holes dug out by the dogs, filled holes settling, all left it very lumpy and uneven. 30 minutes with the 4' box blade had it looking good.
Started with it in box grader mode to move the biggest piles and lumps into the vicinity of the lowest slumps (over the septic mainly, and where some big poles had been dug out). Just a little finesse on the 3 point to spread the resulting pile a bit. No need for the rippers. Flipped it to spread mode (blade convex to the front) and just mainly went back and forth. Looks like a dusty parking lot right now...
Started with it in box grader mode to move the biggest piles and lumps into the vicinity of the lowest slumps (over the septic mainly, and where some big poles had been dug out). Just a little finesse on the 3 point to spread the resulting pile a bit. No need for the rippers. Flipped it to spread mode (blade convex to the front) and just mainly went back and forth. Looks like a dusty parking lot right now...