3 point parts

[Stokes]

I just bought a b7800. The previous owner lost all the three point parts so I need to replace. Went to local dealer and they set me up with some take offs from a b3200 for pretty cheap. Just wondering if anyone knows that the parts will work on my b7800.
Parts list
Both lower links
And 2 solid lifting rods
If anyone has the part numbers so I can cross reference that would be great.
They look comparable in part diagrams
Any help thanks i n advance.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

You should be fine with any Catagory 1 three point hitch parts.

 

[Stubbyie]

Let me say first that I don't have a copy of your machine in custody.

But your question about using non-OEM 3-point parts has arisen here online previously. Add to that my own experience.

My belief is that the lower link arms are going to be the most difficult. Kubota has a bad habit of putting odd twists kinks and doglegs in a huge majority of their lower arms.

Other Kubota models MAY interchange but I sincerely doubt it. Other posters here have had problems interchanging.

You might find for instance that the frame- or housing-attachment pins are too short. If you lengthen them you risk applying unintended stress to things that might crack or break. The tractors can take a lot, but aren't failsafe. If you get to that point and after hooking everything up, do your first few non-loaded 3-point ups-and-downs VERY carefully, checking everything twice. Same with an implement. And since implement lift pin spacing varies slightly within Category you might find that with non-OEM you have unintended difficulities getting it all to work together correctly sometimes but not all times.

You may also find that if different links fit onto your lower pins they splay out too far apart or too close together or hit some part of your lower housing when lifted.

Alternative or aftermarket right and left lift [adjustment] links might work but you may need turnbuckles on both sides instead of the more usual right-side only.

I suspect you won't find alternative or aftermarket stabilizer bars that will work correctly as-is.

Your absolute best bet is to be patient and track down from some salvage yard a complete set that matches your machine. You'll be a lot happier for a lot longer and not have to futz things together that won't ever be 'right'. Depending on other factors you might wind up buying a salvage machine and having a standby set of some spare parts for the future---all to get the desired 3-point.

I went through this on a different model and had fits. Mental fits; never did get an alternative model or aftermarket parts fit. By luck I happened to drift back by the previous owner's place and he had lying out on his picnic table all the parts he had dragged from his barn during a major clean-out.

Kubota will sell you everything needed but expect to pay premium prices. The upside is you may get your money back if you resell someday. For mine the dealer price quote was $1,900 for both sides complete a couple years ago. You can pick and choose to save money: check chains and shackles for instance, perhaps washers and pins.

I hope you can find altenative parts that fit. Please post back loud and clear what does and doesn't work for the benefit of others listening in.

Good luck in your endeavors.

 

[hodge]

Let me say first that I don't have a copy of your machine in custody.

But your question about using non-OEM 3-point parts has arisen here online previously. Add to that my own experience.

My belief is that the lower link arms are going to be the most difficult. Kubota has a bad habit of putting odd twists kinks and doglegs in a huge majority of their lower arms.

Other Kubota models MAY interchange but I sincerely doubt it. Other posters here have had problems interchanging.

You might find for instance that the frame- or housing-attachment pins are too short. If you lengthen them you risk applying unintended stress to things that might crack or break. The tractors can take a lot, but aren't failsafe. If you get to that point and after hooking everything up, do your first few non-loaded 3-point ups-and-downs VERY carefully, checking everything twice. Same with an implement. And since implement lift pin spacing varies slightly within Category you might find that with non-OEM you have unintended difficulities getting it all to work together correctly sometimes but not all times.

You may also find that if different links fit onto your lower pins they splay out too far apart or too close together or hit some part of your lower housing when lifted.

Alternative or aftermarket right and left lift [adjustment] links might work but you may need turnbuckles on both sides instead of the more usual right-side only.

I suspect you won't find alternative or aftermarket stabilizer bars that will work correctly as-is.

Your absolute best bet is to be patient and track down from some salvage yard a complete set that matches your machine. You'll be a lot happier for a lot longer and not have to futz things together that won't ever be 'right'. Depending on other factors you might wind up buying a salvage machine and having a standby set of some spare parts for the future---all to get the desired 3-point.

I went through this on a different model and had fits. Mental fits; never did get an alternative model or aftermarket parts fit. By luck I happened to drift back by the previous owner's place and he had lying out on his picnic table all the parts he had dragged from his barn during a major clean-out.

Kubota will sell you everything needed but expect to pay premium prices. The upside is you may get your money back if you resell someday. For mine the dealer price quote was $1,900 for both sides complete a couple years ago. You can pick and choose to save money: check chains and shackles for instance, perhaps washers and pins.

I hope you can find altenative parts that fit. Please post back loud and clear what does and doesn't work for the benefit of others listening in.

Good luck in your endeavors.

X2. I make custom stabilizers, and utilize tractorhouse very often. You can look up B7800's, click on the tractor, and if there is a photo of the 3 point hitch, you can zoom in. I believe that the parts on a 3200 are similar, but they are larger. I do know that the stabilizers on a B7800 mount on the inside of the lift arms, but they are on the outside of a B3200. That in itself may not be an issue, since you didn't list stabilizers. Does your tractor still have the two plates in the center of the tractor, below the PTO, that the stabilizers mount to?

 

[Stokes]

X2. I make custom stabilizers, and utilize tractorhouse very often. You can look up B7800's, click on the tractor, and if there is a photo of the 3 point hitch, you can zoom in. I believe that the parts on a 3200 are similar, but they are larger. I do know that the stabilizers on a B7800 mount on the inside of the lift arms, but they are on the outside of a B3200. That in itself may not be an issue, since you didn't list stabilizers. Does your tractor still have the two plates in the center of the tractor, below the PTO, that the stabilizers mount to?

I spent over an hour close to two last night cross referencing part numbers on the b7800 and b3200 and all parts needed matched!!! Their are two different models of b3200's and the check chains on one were the same as the b7800.
The local dealer had a pile of takeoff three point parts from rental b3200's
when switched to hydraulic top and tilt.
Spent $125 and got 2 lower links 2 solid lift rods 1 adjustable lift rod 2check chains one top link extra bolts and pins. Now have extra check chains and solid lift rod.
http://www.kubota.com/part/partsList.aspx is the site I used to check part numbers
Next question I don't have the spacers for the bottom pin for the links wondering how important these are?
Any other questions I'll be more than happy to answer the best I can

 

[Stubbyie]

If I'm understanding correctly, the spacers being discussed are going to be important in preventing side-to-side yaw of the lift links. The setup described may be useable but not stable--not able to hold the implement in a straight line behind the machine which may also put a lot of side-to-side play in the top link mount.

Not to scare, but my local handyman tractor repair shop has seen at least two 'other brands' over the years where the top link overstressed its mounting bracket and tore a hole in the rear of the transmission case up behind the driver. I had a White years ago that used an odd-length toplink and I heard this story while searching junkyards.

With the extraordinary good deal you got on the rest of gear you might want to spring for spacers from Kubota in order to get your entire system 'right' and not worry about it going forward.

Otherwise, good job on researching and finding interchangeable parts.

 

[Stubbyie]

My apologies: hit the 'send' button too quickly. Don't mean to hog the discussion.

Continuing concerning spacers...

I forgot to mention that on one of mine unless the 3-point lift arms, stabiliizers, check chains, and all are cinched down pretty tight the outermost components can in some instances just barely rub the inside of the rear tires.

Things can run so close together that when in mud the tires can pick up enough junk that the lower lift arms tend to shave the now-larger tires; if you get a small branch lodged in mud riding the tire it'll get thrown or break or sometimes be lodged in such way it might just might puncture a tire.

Besides tire wear, the 3-point tends to want to ride up on the lugs for a second or two then drop suddenly. And the momentary thump-thump-thump can be disconcerting.

Without the spacers described you may experience something similar.

 

[Lil Foot]

I saw a Yanmar recently that had a stack of standard flat washers (3/4" i.d. I think) for spacers on the bar that holds the lower arms. Not factory, but it seemed to work fine.

 

[hodge]

I think that shaft is 1", making it difficult to buy generic pipe and making spacers. Your best bet would be to buy some from Kubota- they may not be that bad. They are important.

 

[Stokes]

ill just make some spacers out of 4130 tubeing i have laying around if the pin is 1'' then i can use 1.5" .250 wall or 1.25" .120 wall. Ill be shure to get some spacers in thiere befor i get to work.