Hi everybody, my 2250 wont start....will crank but nothing (No white or black smoke) but if I spray w-40 or starting fluid(no good!!!I know but I need to work)in manifold, will star ok and runs fine. Any idea? bad injector? starter no working propely? I removed plugs and they are working, removed fuel line to injectors and have fuel running, clean fuel pump.....any suggestion will be welcome!!Thanks, daniel
2250 wont start
- Thread starter ddiaz396@aol.com
- Start date
When you have it running for awhile and then shut it off will it re-start again without the use of the starter fluid?
If you have cleaned or replaced the filters than my guess is that it's a failing fuel pump. It apparently will supply enough fuel pressure at running rpm but will not at starter cranking rpm.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Let me see if we can break this down.
Have you tested the glow plugs and circuit when it's all installed, do they get hot?
Does it crank at a normal speed?
Since it does not smoke while cranking sounds fuel related.
After you changed the filters did you bled out the air in the system?
Have you checked the fuel for contamination (like gasoline or water) in the fuel?
Have you tested the glow plugs and circuit when it's all installed, do they get hot?
Does it crank at a normal speed?
Since it does not smoke while cranking sounds fuel related.
After you changed the filters did you bled out the air in the system?
Have you checked the fuel for contamination (like gasoline or water) in the fuel?
yes, removed each plug and they got red hot. Replace fuel filter, drain old diesel from the tank and replaced with new fuel....no wateror oil(fuel looks normal)run the starter and loose individual fuel lines to the injectors for 1- to be sure that a got fuel at the end 2-just en case that was air in the line when a replace the filter and fuel....low engine compression?
The lines you had loose, were they loose at the top of the injectors? Did you have the throttle set on wide open?
If you have a clean air filter, good fuel to the injectors without air, the battery is turning the engine over fast enough that it would normally start...
seems kind of odd. An engine doesn't loose compression so bad it suddenly won't start.
If you have a clean air filter, good fuel to the injectors without air, the battery is turning the engine over fast enough that it would normally start...
seems kind of odd. An engine doesn't loose compression so bad it suddenly won't start.
From Kubotabooks.com
A tractor with series wired GP's...... what could be wrong?
Please post photos of your glow plugs and the associated wiring on the engine.
It is common for these plugs to be wired incorrectly and your test of applying power directly to the glow plug is dangerous and damaging.
Do you have a multimeter?
Do you know where your engine stop solenoid is?
Perhaps it is sticking and it is a vibrating engine that moves it to a run position with the WD-40.
Dave
A tractor with series wired GP's...... what could be wrong?
Please post photos of your glow plugs and the associated wiring on the engine.
It is common for these plugs to be wired incorrectly and your test of applying power directly to the glow plug is dangerous and damaging.
Do you have a multimeter?
Do you know where your engine stop solenoid is?
Perhaps it is sticking and it is a vibrating engine that moves it to a run position with the WD-40.
Dave
I'm thinking along the line of these two gentlemen.
Engine will start and continue to run if additional fuel is supplied into intake manifold.
So there is NO fuel, or very little fuel available when cranking to allow the engine to fire, but there is fuel available to keep it running once it has been started using additional fuel.
So if it has a mechanical stop lever, perhaps the rack isn't opening back up after being closed and with vibration of engine running from external fuel it opens, or be due to a sticking or worn electrical stop/run solenoid if it has one, or one without the pull-in coil functioning.
Do you have an electrical circuit for this tractor?
Does it have any safety switches on the clutch pedal, neutral selector, pto lever?
Also may be due to an inefficient fuel/injector pump, certainly fuel related as previously noted I expect. Does it perform under load properly once running?
OP says engine will not start (but cranks ok)
Engine will start and continue to run if additional fuel is supplied into intake manifold.
So there is NO fuel, or very little fuel available when cranking to allow the engine to fire, but there is fuel available to keep it running once it has been started using additional fuel.
So if it has a mechanical stop lever, perhaps the rack isn't opening back up after being closed and with vibration of engine running from external fuel it opens, or be due to a sticking or worn electrical stop/run solenoid if it has one, or one without the pull-in coil functioning.
Do you have an electrical circuit for this tractor?
Does it have any safety switches on the clutch pedal, neutral selector, pto lever?
Also may be due to an inefficient fuel/injector pump, certainly fuel related as previously noted I expect. Does it perform under load properly once running?
100....
I had looked on Kubota Books and found a WSM for this and related models.
It is for 2250, 2550, 2850 and 3250.
There is a wiring diagram but it is complicated because of the size it was scanned at. The "Engine Stop" solenoid only has one coil in it.
There is a "Timer Relay" nearby in the wiring diagram. I thought it was likely the type you had described previously which held the engine stop solenoid for a few seconds after the key was turned off.
The actual solenoid is on the side of the injection pump so I figured spring to push on and timer power to stop.
I have an eye infection and cannot follow the wiring diagram lines.
I cannot even find the WSM to send you a link to it but here is the cover page.
Dave