Purchased a L2500 from my granddad a couple weeks ago and was able to get it to start after assistance with a battery charger. Got it on the trailer and hauled down the road a few miles and went to take it off the trailer and could not get it to crank. Tried to recharge battery and would end up getting two cranks and clicks. Went ahead and bought a new battery and tried again to no avail. Replaced starter thinking it might be weak still no good. What am I missing?
Kubota L2500
- Thread starter Blake Schuster
- Start date
I had the same thing happen to me. It was battery terminal protectant that had wicked down between the post and the terminal causing a poor connection. Also make sure that you removed the protective cap off the battery post before installing the cable.
Most of all, make sure you didn't reverse the positive and negative. Also make sure the high and low range selector of. The left side of the fender is absolutely in neutral. And the last thing is make sure that the PTO wasn't accidentally locked over a bit when getting off the tractor. That needs to be in the off position before tractor will crank. That is located to the left of the shifter.
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Most of all, make sure you didn't reverse the positive and negative. Also make sure the high and low range selector of. The left side of the fender is absolutely in neutral. And the last thing is make sure that the PTO wasn't accidentally locked over a bit when getting off the tractor. That needs to be in the off position before tractor will crank. That is located to the left of the shifter.
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Remove terminals from battery. Clean posts. Clean inside of terminals. Check cable at terminals for corrosion. Ensure ground cable makes good electrical contact to frame. If you still have trouble ensure the starter bolts to the engine are tight and the cable on the starter is tight.
Thank you for the input. So this morning I went ahead and pulled the negative off the battery and completely changed the cable and cleaned off where it connects to the frame. Still no fire. Gets good crank but will not turn over
I think there has been some confusion in the terminology - to crank or turn over generally means the same thing - the starter is energized, engaging the flywheel and causing the engine to rotate. It sounds as if your tractor is doing that and is not starting. That is why all of the posts so far have been battery connection related. You will have to more thoroughly explain what is happening so that the more knowledgeable than I members can evaluate your starting issue - fuel - glow plugs, etc.
I may be way off base, but that is my perception of this thread.
I may be way off base, but that is my perception of this thread.
Has it sat for a long period? Did you fuel it? open the connector to one of the injectors and see if you have fuel to the injectors. If not, open all of them, advance the throttle to wide open. then crank and see if you get fuel spurting out of the injectors. If you do, close the injector fittings and try to crank. Be sure the machine is in neutral and set the brakes.
Sorry for the confusion. I will try to explain a little better. One of the previous owners has put a on/off switch in for the glow plugs and a indicator off of that which is working correctly. There is a push button which activates the starter and spins the flywheel which works correctly. I can get the starter to spin but will not run. I have loosened the injectors on the right side of the motor to make sure fuel was coming into the cylinders and there was fuel coming in. I’m wondering if there is some safety mechanism that is preventing me from getting it to run. In all my ignorance it seems like it should run (fuel,air,heat)
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Was the fuel changed be for it was started after sitting for a long time?
If the fuel filter is dirty/ clogged or there is water in it, remove drain replace.
After doing so, loosen all the injector lines at the injectors, set throttle to high and crank is short run as to not overheat the starter, when all lines put out bubble free fuel then tighten lines and it should fire if not then injectors are clogged or there is another underlying issue.
If the fuel filter is dirty/ clogged or there is water in it, remove drain replace.
After doing so, loosen all the injector lines at the injectors, set throttle to high and crank is short run as to not overheat the starter, when all lines put out bubble free fuel then tighten lines and it should fire if not then injectors are clogged or there is another underlying issue.
I have not had the chance to change the fuel or the fuel filter. I’m just curious if anyone knows of a seat safety or some other safety devices that could be the root of my problem. Another thing, when I did check the top of the injectors to verify my fuel pump was working I had fuel “misting” out. Should it be a fine mist like it was or should it be full on fuel. I did notice a valve coming from what I assume is the pump and was located after pump before injector. This valve was turned all the way counterclockwise which I assumed to be closed so I turned the other was and still could not get the darn thing to start
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
The valve is probably a bleed valve to get air out of the fuel system lines and out of the injector pump. After that then you wold vent the air out of lines between the injector pump and the actual injectors.
It sounds like you have air in the fuel system and it won’t start until the air is removed which can take more time and effort than you think.
The mist at the injector is indeed indicative of air in the system unless you are barely breaking the nut loose. Give it a good turn after you break it loose and see what happens. You should see fuel without air bubbles that runs out.
It does not make much sense that it ran before but not now unless it is out of fuel or something is clogged in the fuel system.
Do you have any clue if the fuel is gelling due to the cold? I see you are in Oklahoma and it has been “cold” for us southerners.
I suggest that since it won’t start you may as well commit to investigation into the fuel flow. Start by draining the fuel tank to see if it runs out well. Then replace the fuel filter. Then put fresh fuel into the tank at least half full. Then start seeing where you can if you have good fuel flow.
Then figure out which way that valve must be turned to bleed system and which way is the running position.
Then start to bleed the system.
You maybe able to move the tractor inside by brute force if needed. Just remember to get the trailer tongue connected to the hitch again before you start to back the tractor off. I am sure no one on this forum has ever forgotten that in their haste to get something finished.
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It sounds like you have air in the fuel system and it won’t start until the air is removed which can take more time and effort than you think.
The mist at the injector is indeed indicative of air in the system unless you are barely breaking the nut loose. Give it a good turn after you break it loose and see what happens. You should see fuel without air bubbles that runs out.
It does not make much sense that it ran before but not now unless it is out of fuel or something is clogged in the fuel system.
Do you have any clue if the fuel is gelling due to the cold? I see you are in Oklahoma and it has been “cold” for us southerners.
I suggest that since it won’t start you may as well commit to investigation into the fuel flow. Start by draining the fuel tank to see if it runs out well. Then replace the fuel filter. Then put fresh fuel into the tank at least half full. Then start seeing where you can if you have good fuel flow.
Then figure out which way that valve must be turned to bleed system and which way is the running position.
Then start to bleed the system.
You maybe able to move the tractor inside by brute force if needed. Just remember to get the trailer tongue connected to the hitch again before you start to back the tractor off. I am sure no one on this forum has ever forgotten that in their haste to get something finished.
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Lol I would love to get it off of the trailer. Would be so much easier to work on but, the bucket is down
Russell King
Well-known member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Can you get the trailer backed into position and then pull tractor off the trailer with a come-a-long?
I don’t know if what you have is geared or hydrostatic but if it is hydrostatic I am unsure how those can be moved if not running so perhaps someone will let you know about that.
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I don’t know if what you have is geared or hydrostatic but if it is hydrostatic I am unsure how those can be moved if not running so perhaps someone will let you know about that.
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North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Turn the Jet start valve (valve on the side of the injection pump) clockwise to close, crack the fuel lines and bleed till you get fuel and not foam or bubbles.
If you need to get it off the trailer, jack the loader up (move the joystick up and down to relive any back pressure, block the loader in the up position then remove the tractor.
If you need to get it off the trailer, jack the loader up (move the joystick up and down to relive any back pressure, block the loader in the up position then remove the tractor.