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When oil was sold like that.... the corner-mechanic also stocked COMPLETE ENGINES ready to be bolted in as they wore out. Back then, replacing an engine was commonplace occurrence. (just look at the oil they had to work with)

For the G3200, G4200, G5200 and G6200... the electrical diagram is in the owners-manual which is available online below. https://www.manua.ls/kubota/g5200/manual

A 'trick' which works for me is to use a leaf-blower. Open BOTH drains (or pull lower radiator hose) then use blower into the open radiator-cap. Not only does this expell over a quart more of fluid, also some sediment comes out too.

The windshiled-washer I always use in all vehicles is good for -25F. WallyMart carries it. https://www.rainx.com/product/rain-x-2-in-1-windshield-washer-fluid/

Yes, there is electric "lift pump" behind the right-rear wheel. Infact, this pump is known to go bad after about 20 years. Engine will run with FULL tank... but stall-out as level in tank gets low. It may not be wise to 'glow' with warm engine. ------------ The glow indicator may not come on...

Is 'slobber' another term for "Wet Stacking"?

This is a much-debated subject which is unlikely to be resolved here. There are a lot of variables which come into play. Lets not forget that CONSUMING FUEL is not a big concern.... a diesel engine is VERY frugal while idling. Hence, our concerns may be more about the machine itself. (carbon...

This needs to be corrected. Kubota engines often refuse to start at all without glowing. Using 'ether' or other starting-sprays on Kubota engine is known to cause damage (cracked pistons, broken head...etc) The troubleshooting process for the glowplugs is pretty trivial and can be done with...

I am pretty sure the "spell checking" feature is part of the BROWSER you are using to access FaceBook on your 'puter. HENCE: Look through the options/settings within your browser BTW: To start with, WHICH browser are you using? (Firefox, Opera, AVG, Avast, Edge, Chrome, Safari.....etc) For...

Be aware!!! The belts on my Kubota are METRIC..... sure there are sorta/kinda equivalent length/width in inch-size... and I have tried them cuz they are cheep. In some cases the inch-size belts work. For me NOPE If I did not use METRIC belts (a matched pair) they would shred within two mowings.

Yup --- use a dedicated log-choker chain. (or skidding-tongs) Do not forget a proper 'headache screen' and GRADED chain to protect yourself from flying chains 😮 (do not use Chieezium chain) Years ago, I was helping a buddy in his sugarbush. (maple-syrup boiling) I used small bulldozer to drag...

Are you really asking "At what RPM should I work the engine to minimize fuel usage?" (Max power while using least fuel is an AGE-OLD question when talking about diesel equipment) For the Kubota V2403CR-T turbocharged diesel engine, The following are documented: Max power==> 2700 RPM Max...

Taking your idea a step further.... there are RENTAL shops all over the nation where you can get a stump-grinder for the limited time you need it. You get a purpose-designed stump-removal tool which does a good job and you do not have to store the thing for 90% of its lifetime..... hence...

NOPE!.... perhaps it is easier to think of FLOW -vs- PRESSURE to be similar to TORQUE -vs- RPM. In general, LESS flow means more pressure. (stronger hydraulics) Some folks have a NEED for more hydraulic flow because they wish to run attachments with hydraulic motors. (such as mower, baler...

This is worth repeating because it is true for all ICE engines. (lawnmowers, motorcycles, equipment...etc) Keeping the heat WITHIN the exhaust-system has several benefits: Cooler underhood temperatures Less heat from exhaust gets into nearby components. More engine-power as exhaust gas...

That appears to be one of the el-cheepo mowers available from big-box stores. They get the job done but are designed to wear out after several summers. Everything from the engine (aluminum cylinder), to the pressed-steel mowdeck, and goofy pully drive-system which emulates HST is destined to fail.

I like the idea of keeping machines clean. Wax helps the dirt fall off for years. A clean machine makes it easier to identify new leaks before they become a problem. Just a couple caveats... Pay attention where you spray water. Stay away from electrical connections, switches, vent-tubes...

All cars have "redundant" systems to reduce 'single point of failure'. The MAF sensor is one of those. Infact, the electrical plug to the MAF can be TOTALLY DISCONNECTED and the engine will start and run (in limp mode) so vehicle can be driven. A dirty MAF can be cleaned and put back into...

I know I have watched a uTube video regarding this problem and how to fix it. Step-by-step how to take front end apart and replace those leaking plugs

FIRST - double-check all the safety-switches. This is most-likely the problem. If necessarry -- Easy to troubleshoot with a voltmeter. Clip black meter-lead to BATTERY(-) POST Red meter-lead on LARGE connector on starter Expect this to ALWAYS be battery-voltage Try to crank engine and record...