Just a friendly note. You do not have to get off the tractor to latch the QH. Leave the levers down and it will still latch and then be locked. By doing this, you have just cut your trips off the tractor for latching in half. ;)
I believe that the ideal length is about 20"-29" for the smaller M series models.
A 2 1/2" dia up to a 3" dia cylinder should be used.
Look at the following link, base the mid stroke of the hydraulic unit on the asked for dimension, plus or minus a fraction of an inch...
Movement in all directions is preferred. Whatever you get, be sure that the boom is long enough that you can spin the blade 360* when connected to the 3pt. The heavier, the better.
Good luck with your decision. :)
A couple of ways to look at these. Get the GS1572 and maybe have to baby it a bit. Get the GS1560 and go to work.
Another recommendation, get your rear tires filled if you have not already.
Lots of people figure bigger is better, that is not always the case.
Good luck with your decision. :)
Are your tires loaded, if not, fill them. Filling the tires makes them act more like shock absorbers instead of ballons. Run less air pressure. Drive slower.
Just a few things that will make the ride smoother and cut down on the bouncing without having to reinvent the wheel. Good luck. (y)
Well, there it is, my mistake.:oops: But then again, I thought that we were talking about a box blade for a
B series tractor. If you can show 5 foot box blade that would typically be used for a B series tractor that costs $7,000, please do. :unsure:
To start with, try using the upper holes in the lower clevises on the 2 side links.
You are at the upper limits of the tractor's hitch, so you might need to fudge the hydraulic pressure a bit.
Good luck. :)
look at the link below. This helps you to determine what you need for your hydraulic top link.
https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html
You will also need a way to control that top link, so you will need a rear remote also.
I have yet to see a hydraulic link retract on its own when there is weight pulling it out.
You would have to have a constant pressure pushing inward and a really, really poor quality control valve.
I suppose if everything was just right it could happen, but 99.9999% sure that it would not. ;)...
Yes it can be done in that fashion, but to do it clean and neat and have enough room are all different conditions for different machines. My typical answer would be that "I do not recommend it"
So far, the best solution to meet both needs that I have come up with is to have an electric...
While this is true, but when you are doing other tasks that require a constant held adjustment, then it is beneficial to have that option without having to either disconnect the coupler or switching back to the manual link.
I have customers that have leak down issues that are extreme, like 3" of...
Assuming that you are talking about your MX5100? Not your other tractors?
Look at the following link. https://www.fitritehydraulics.com/toplink.html
The asked-for dimension should be close ( plus or minus ) to what the top link is when halfway extended.
I have found that a working length of...
Maybe 90s at the couplers to get the hoses pointed down?
Then you have an issue hitting the quick hitch when tilted further forward though. :oops:
The coupler location is the issue. You might simply have them the best that they are going to be with what you have? :unsure:
The top link and side links are the same as the L4200 up to the L4802.
I'm guessing that all of the 3pt hitch parts from these models will work for you.