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That is ok. A common practice on gas engines is to squirt oil into the cylinders to determine if low compression is caused by rings not sealing or damaged valves. It is not a good practice on diesels though. I know many people do it and get away with it but a leakdown test is safer and at least...

Once again, a warning! Don't oil cylinders on small Kubota engines, do a leakdown test instead! You risk very expensive repairs by hydrolocking these engines.

Yes, A 12 point socket works on them

They are called ferry cap screws

The starter doesn't engage in preheat.

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Pay particular attention to where the ground cable from the battery attaches to the frame. You can check this by attaching a booster cable from the Battery to a good ground on the frame and see if the problem goes away. The plate under the battery AND the frame must both have a good ground...

You can install them if your front wheels are contacting the loader frame. Otherwise no need.

Could be, Kubota definitely didn't make the carburetor! That said it shouldn't be that hard to fix a leaking float valve.

I believe Kubota built that engine themselves. At least that is what they told us and I haven't seen any examples of it on any other equipment. I actually have a few of those original carbs that I changed out.

The L39 could have a back-up buzzer, could it be that? Find whatever is buzzing and send us a picture if you can.

A manual fuel shutoff is never a bad idea, especially when the fuel tanks are higher than the carb.

It is fused by the main slow/blow fuse.

It's really good when people come back to report what fixed the issue they experienced. It helps all of us learn and reassures those of us who try to help that our efforts were appreciated and helpful.

It is not like we are trying to get down to a thou or two. 18 thou would be ok but 10 thou or less would not be. It is surprising how much a few thou changes CR and compression

Actually a length of key stock is plenty adequate.

Just because I do it a certain way doesn't make it the only way! Caliper should give a good indication.

To check it I use a straightedge across the piston and a feeler guage from it to the block surface. If you don't have about .020" protrusion a D902 will be very hard to start.

Now that you have the head off you should check the piston protrusion (amount they stick up above the block at top dead center) Should be about .020"