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Having the belts too tight will not strain the tractor. Having the belts loose would make everything work harder because the mower would not be running up to speed under load.

I am betting your radiator is plugged on the inside. When it is running hot and is revved up is the fan blowing lots of air? Is the air hot? is the bottom radiator hose hot, warm, or cool? If your rad is plugged on the inside your bottom hose will be luke warm or even cool. If you are getting...

No worries mate. I'm like you, very cautious about dumping $$$$ into a pile of junk. You can spend more on repairs than the unit is worth. I've spent lots of time and money on repairing beat machines and regretted most of them. Very few turn out to be bargains.

I would drain the transmission/hydraulic oil see how bad it is. If it is clean then there is a real good chance the rest of the tractor is fine.

The run in procedure for a new or rebuilt JD engine is to run at elevated idle till up to operating temp. Ramp up to rated pto rpm and gradually increase load till at max hp. Run at max for an hour and then out the door. This is all done on a dyno of course but I think it is obvious that other...

I am a bit confused by your description. First I don't know why the tractor would stop moving because of the front drive shaft. It should still operate normally without the front shaft. Second the pin I think you are referring to holds the shaft including the universal joint to the output shaft...

It could be as simple as the delivery valve is stuck or dirty but it may be better to take out the injection pump and have it checked/rebuilt.

Check the thermostat and make sure your radiator core is not plugged.

I hate to disagree with you but bio-diesel is more hygroscopic than diesel. Not to say diesel does not absorb water but biofuel is worse.

Your fuel cap is likely vented and water will wick in through the cap, also condensation is a big deal especially with the biodiesel garbage that is mandated now.Biodiesel will absorb moisture out of the air let alone what condenses in the tank. Throw a tarp over it as a minimum.

This machine uses the charge pump for the hydrostat for hydraulic pressure hence it does not have a lot of jam. It does have a relief which controls the hydraulic pressure to the pto and the deck lift. If your deck lift is getting weak then you can assume that either the relief is weak or...

Since it is your pto that stops and not the engine eliminates any electrical possibility. The pto lever runs a valve that allows oil to the pto clutch. My guess is your clutch pack is worn or has an internal leak or your hydraulics are weak.

You have an airlock. Try loosening the filter till you get oil dripping from the gasket. Re-tighten and try again.

Except for being easy for the first hour or so run it like you normally would. Being gentle for hours and hours is an old myth that will not die.

I'd change all the filters top up the oil and run till 200hrs and replace oil and filters.

When you say checked the switches, how? You need to bypass each switch to remove it from the system to really know if it is the problem.

I ran a 150hp tractor for years with exhaust pressuring the coolant system to the point where there was a blast of air coming out the rad overflow. Finally fixed it but never did any harm. With yours though you are getting temp spikes at startup which means you have a leak likely right at the...

Did you replace the battery in your tractor or just jumper it with another? A really bad battery will kill even a good one so you must eliminate completely the bad one.

Is smoke more white than grey. If it is be suspicious of antifreeze. Bad injectors usually take more than a minute to clear up and usually will notice a slight miss if bad enough.

Doubt a small hole will accomplish anything. Some thermostats come with a hole to aid in letting trapped air out. If your doesn't have one it sure won't hurt. It is possible you have air trapped but you might have a bad head gasket or crack and exhaust is being pushed into the cooling system.