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One other important thing, don't overfill. Add just enough coolant to cover the fins. If filled much more than that expansion when hot will come out the overflow and lead you to believe you have a problem.

This is a scarifier I built for a neighbor to drag around behind his green tractor to scratch the ground for seed planting. Built it out of scrap stuff I had laying around. Sides were an old trailer ramp sides, drill pipe for the cross pieces and sucker rod for the tines.

Thanks, great price and free shipping, wow! I have a tooth bar similar to the one in the picture, but I only put it on when I need it.

Got a link for the neat forks?

Put one on my 640 F**d a couple of years ago, didn't know it would be as great as it is, not only on my box blade, but on my landscape rake and rear blade.

Since it seems to have good power and I'm not cash laden I think I'll either run until it really acts up or run to failure and then deal with it. Until then I'll just keep keep the whip on it and run it 200 rpm below the big white line.

I noticed a small amount of fuel around the top of the pump, cranked down on it, dried it off and put it to work. Moved several loads of caliche up a very steep driveway and it did OK, no real loss of power. I'm pulling quite a load, FEL full of wet caliche, around 600lbs of ballast weight and...

I didn't, I've been bleeding at about 750 RPM.

No smoke what so ever. Engine had been running for 15 minutes in 50 deg. weather. The rear cylinder injector (both old and new) have acted different from the front one when bled. Also I can see what looks like more fuel returned from the front injector back to the tank than the rear one.

I'm new to diesels, and have never really listened another 2 cylinder such as the one in my L175. First 15 seconds it's idling at 475 rpm's. Next 15 seconds are at 1000 rpm. Just installed new injectors and reset the valve lash, but again I don't know what it should sound like...

This is what I'm using, it really digs into caliche. Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk

Not quite understanding your question, can you be more specific? Meanwhile I'll take a shot at it. Last time I worked on it one injector wasn't working properly, so I changed it. That helped, but it still didn't act like the other one in the fact the motor didn't die when the tubing nut was...

Been wondering why while bleeding the injectors on my L-175 loosening one nut would kill the motor and the other wouldn't. Replaced the one that didn't, it helped some, but it still didn't act like the other did. Finally got back to working on it today, so I changed the fuel filter, pulled both...

Don't know what soil you have out west, but in Utopia I have unborn limestone AKA caliche. It's the only way to get it with a FEL. What I saw in Big Bend is similar to what I have.

Driveway or runway?

You have a bad O ring. Same thing I just went through with my L175. It had a chunk missing out of it. Cylinder was like brand new so nothing done there. It will now hold position even with about 500lbs of counter weight and the engine shut off. Very simple fix especially compared to what it took...

It's not malarkey, it's a well proven, time tested fact of life.

Thanks, great advice. Your description as to what happens on a good cylinder is just the opposite of what one (that being me) would think. Just ordered one earlier, will order the second right now.

I can get new from Messick's for about $62, no big deal. Question is, is the injector bad, and if so (which I'm guessing it is) is it sucking air when the tubing nut is cracked?

I've noticed my L175 acted like it was loosing a little power running up hills in 4th gear, so first thing that crossed my mind was air in the lines. Cracked the first injector, no air, just solid fuel. Cracked the second one, but as soon as the fuel dribbled out (not squirting) the motor wanted...