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Yes, right at the rear end of the front drive shaft, where the shaft below the bell housing slides into. I think it’s designed to have some play at this location.

It is an aftermarket pplate. It must not have been built per OEM specs. I thought about finding spacer too. It was getting sooo frustrating, so I raised the fingers instead. Now, my output line on the hydraulic pump is leaking! Ugggghhhh!

Splitting is easy. Mine has a loader. Just did mine 3x, 🤣. First time: 17 hours, third time, 4 hours. This includes pplate, disc and TO bearing replacement. Pointers: Remove battery to make the top two bell housing bolts more accessible. Set the tractor level and keep both halves level...

Well, after splitting the tractor three times, I found why the clutch would not disengage. The WSM finger heights would not work. I had to set them 10mm higher. The pedal now travels a very short distance before the TO bearing contacts the fingers. And beyond that, it disengages the clutch...

Dry black stuff: probably dust from the clutch disk wearing. I wouldn’t be too concerned. Rubber stopper: I had to cut mine out. I plan on using good duct tape to cover the hole, and remove the drain plug so water doesn’t get trapped in the bellhousing. Front wobble: the video won’t load...

To replace the rear main seal, the motor will need pulled or the tractor split and flywheel removed. If it is motor oil, IMO it’s definitely the rear main. If it’s a slow leak, I would not mess with it, unless you have other reasons to pull motor or split the tractor. You can try diesel approved...

I think your leak at the missing bolt between the “bell housing” and engine block is the rear main seal. The bell housing is supposed to be “dry”. It has an inspection port with a removable rubber stopper and a drain bolt on the bottom. A gasket is used between the matting surfaces too. I...

I will replace the failed glow lamp. No more guessing on the fly if GP’s are working.

Hey Ken! Thanks for the comment. The fenders are painted and the rear half is replacing mine this weekend. Thx again for selling the stuff at a great price!

On my running tractor and the parts tractor, both are lamps with burned coils. It normally takes about 10-15 seconds for the plugs to heat up. I don’t think the previous owner did anything to the tractor, including change glow plugs. He used it a lot, but there’s no telling when someone...

First, I very much appreciate this forum and those who have helped me thus far. On my journey to restoring B7100D, I noticed my glow plug lamp is bypassed. It starts quickly (no winters in Florida) and the glow plugs are OEM and perhaps original. I have a secondary dash for parts with...

perfect! The two bullet connections nearest the dynamo are the two I snagged. Thank you!

I managed to snag both wires on my two-wire dynamo (B7100d) at the dynamo. Both wires are light blue. I looked at the wiring diagram, but I cannot determine which wire from the harness goes to which wire coming out of the dynamo. I image it matters. Can anyone enlighten me?

Thank you. I dug the old one out of my scrap pile…the new one is different. I now know why everyone here advises to buyOEM kubota parts. Lesson learned, after splitting the tractor 3x.

I think the new TO bearing is not the correct one.

Wolfman, Here’s the original TO and the way I first installed the new one. And a pic of perhaps the correct direction. Thank you.

Will do! Thx!

Sounds like if my finger settings are still good, it's the TO bearing. Splitting it again... fingers crossed! thank you!

Wolfman, I resurrected this thread with an update and questions for you. Bare with me, this is kinda long because I want you to have all the info. After I finished installing the new clutch, with the motor at idle, the clutch will not disengage. Pedal adjustment was per the IT shop manual...

Same thing happened to me. Turns out a pressure plate finger broke and lodged between the flywheel and the housing. Stopped it dead immediately. Would not do anything.