On a hydraulic note, I agree that the Faster brand of hydraulic couplers are crap! What the hell is wrong with good old Pioneer couplers they have worked for years, hell I think they are even specified in the Bible! I constructed a catch can for my M5-091, that way I can pour it out periodically on areas where I want to control dust, that really pisses off the Libs!For a bit more detail, when I bought the Buhler/Farm King blade a couple of years ago, the holes for the pins to connect to the lift arms were worn out. They were between a CAT 2 and CAT 3 in size, so I decided to buy a couple of CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins, plasma and file out the undersized holes to fit the CAT 3 O.D. and weld them in. My thinking was that I could/would eventually buy a QH20 and would pick up the Buhler blade using the captive CAT 3 part of pin. But, I could also pick up the blade as I've been doing using the lift arms directly and the CAT 2 pin interface.
Had I used lock pins/clips to prevent the lift arms from separating from the welded pins I'm not sure what would have happened. I don't see any damage to the tractor and put that down to enough play of the lift arms (left to right) and a soft enough pin that bent under the load.
My plan today is to pick up the blade with pallet forks and chains and move it out of the way until I decide what to do. I'm leaning towards biting the bullet and buying a QH20 so that I can easily pick up and remove the Buhler beast. I would cut off the CAT 2 pins that protrude, leaving the welds in place and call it good.
I want to get the QH15 and EA box blade on the M6060 today, but before doing that I want to address the constant oil leaks from the piece of junk Faster hydraulic couplers. I'll be switching them out for something that doesn't leak all day, every day. The MX rear end is as dry as as bone after four years of hard use, but the M rear end is like a cow's arse. Faster is shit stuff in my opinion. They have a terrible system of seals and such that will piss oil all over the place. I will NEVER buy any FASTER products again.
Here are some photos of the CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins that I welded in.
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View attachment 169488
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What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
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+1000%. Nothing wrong with Pioneer at all. The Faster couplers have nice dust caps but that's about it. I'd much rather have the same Pioneer couplers that are on my MX since they don't piss oil all over the back end of the tractor and work just fine. I'm sick of the mess on the rear end of the M and sick of losing hydraulic fluid all over the driveway or in the grass.
My plan today is to remove and scrap the Faster junk couplers, borrow some couplers from the Summit Hydraulics multiplier to replace the Faster, and cap off the multiplier with the SH supplied plugs until I can order replacements. That's the plan until I find some mismatch of threads or the like. Oh, I need to pick up some engine de-greaser too to clean off the back end of the M6060 since it's a mess.
Hopefully you caught it in time and no damage to the top link. Was there any damage to top link?For a bit more detail, when I bought the Buhler/Farm King blade a couple of years ago, the holes for the pins to connect to the lift arms were worn out. They were between a CAT 2 and CAT 3 in size, so I decided to buy a couple of CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins, plasma and file out the undersized holes to fit the CAT 3 O.D. and weld them in. My thinking was that I could/would eventually buy a QH20 and would pick up the Buhler blade using the captive CAT 3 part of pin. But, I could also pick up the blade as I've been doing using the lift arms directly and the CAT 2 pin interface.
Had I used lock pins/clips to prevent the lift arms from separating from the welded pins I'm not sure what would have happened. I don't see any damage to the tractor and put that down to enough play of the lift arms (left to right) and a soft enough pin that bent under the load.
My plan today is to pick up the blade with pallet forks and chains and move it out of the way until I decide what to do. I'm leaning towards biting the bullet and buying a QH20 so that I can easily pick up and remove the Buhler beast. I would cut off the CAT 2 pins that protrude, leaving the welds in place and call it good.
I want to get the QH15 and EA box blade on the M6060 today, but before doing that I want to address the constant oil leaks from the piece of junk Faster hydraulic couplers. I'll be switching them out for something that doesn't leak all day, every day. The MX rear end is as dry as as bone after four years of hard use, but the M rear end is like a cow's arse. Faster is shit stuff in my opinion. They have a terrible system of seals and such that will piss oil all over the place. I will NEVER buy any FASTER products again.
Here are some photos of the CAT 3 to CAT 2 pins that I welded in.
View attachment 169487
View attachment 169488
View attachment 169489
None that I can see. It was only a momentary thing. Another lesson learned ... I think.
johnjk
Well-known member
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Equipment
B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
Couple inches of snow and strong winds made it time for some bucket work with the B3200
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Well shoot, I'm in the process of switching over my Pioneer quick-connectors to Flat-Face Faster. Hope I'm not next to be disappointed.....Faster is shit stuff in my opinion. They have a terrible system of seals and such that will piss oil all over the place. I will NEVER buy any FASTER products again.
I have no experience with flat face couplers from any manufacturer so perhaps they'll work for you.Well shoot, I'm in the process of switching over my Pioneer quick-connectors to Flat-Face Faster. Hope I'm not next to be disappointed.
View attachment 169497
More than two years ago I mentioned the leaking Faster couplers to a friend who runs the local Kubota dealership. They sell a lot of equipment to farmers and mining companies and his response was it was just how things are and oil all over the back end is normal, particularly for farmers running the bigger stuff which typically have Faster couplers.
I've had Pioneer couplers on both MX tractors with 3rd functions on both and three sets of rear remotes on both, also had some on the BX too and zero issues and nice and clean/dry rear ends. The loaders connect via Pioneer couplers too, but it's only the Faster couplers that are the problem. I frickin' hate them and have finally had enough of their crap.
North Idaho Wolfman
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Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
All off my eqipment is flat face couplers and I have Zero mess.Well shoot, I'm in the process of switching over my Pioneer quick-connectors to Flat-Face Faster. Hope I'm not next to be disappointed.
View attachment 169497
They are quicker and easier to connect in my exxperiance.
I learned that (and where to get 'em affordably) from you guys.
(I just f'n hope they work because I'm in for a buttload.)
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I would consider switching all of my stuff to flat faced but I have two tractors and lots of implements with hydraulics so it would be a lot of cost for an unknown gain. I don't have a problem with the Pioneer style couplers, just the leaking Faster variants. I can't stand all the oil over the rear end of the M6060 or the need to add oil to the transmission.
eventually you will.Well shoot, I'm in the process of switching over my Pioneer quick-connectors to Flat-Face Faster. Hope I'm not next to be disappointed.
View attachment 169497
i use parker connectors. most parker dealers will happily help and make hoses as needed on the spot. sometimes while you wait.
i use flat face on my fel 3rd function pioneer everywhere else
North Idaho Wolfman
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Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Oh for the oil mess Zep citris cleaner works great!
The purple cleaner does an even better job, but it's hard on aluminum and paint.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
The diesel transfer tank my brother gave me recently is an old Vevor 58 gallon without the optional filter. Not as nice as the John Dow I had ordered but the price difference, $1068.00 v $0.00, made the Vevor more attractive. Stopped by Northern Tool a couple days ago and picked up a Groz spin on filter. Got that plumbed up today and found a permanent home for it.
Navigating all the stuff in the way of accessing the L’s battery to routinely power the pump is impractical, IMO. It can be done, but definitely not something I would care to do routinely. Pump is rated at 22 amps at 12 volts. I had a battery maintainer/charger gathering dust on a shelf, so I hooked it up to a small lawnmower battery which I set on the shelf near the transfer tank. Now all I have to do is pull the L into its normal bay, unhook the battery maintainer, hook up the pump, and start pumping.
The 55 gallons in the tank and 30 gallons in cans have now been treated with both anti-gel/cetane boost and a maintenance dose of biocide. That should last a pretty good while unless something odd happens to put more than usual hours on the tractor.
Navigating all the stuff in the way of accessing the L’s battery to routinely power the pump is impractical, IMO. It can be done, but definitely not something I would care to do routinely. Pump is rated at 22 amps at 12 volts. I had a battery maintainer/charger gathering dust on a shelf, so I hooked it up to a small lawnmower battery which I set on the shelf near the transfer tank. Now all I have to do is pull the L into its normal bay, unhook the battery maintainer, hook up the pump, and start pumping.
The 55 gallons in the tank and 30 gallons in cans have now been treated with both anti-gel/cetane boost and a maintenance dose of biocide. That should last a pretty good while unless something odd happens to put more than usual hours on the tractor.
Thanks for the tip re cleaners.
As expected, swapping out the Faster couplers for another style is proving to be a PITA. The Summit Hydraulics couplers on the multiplier are a 3/4"-16 ORB thread whereas the Faster couplers from Kubota are a 3/8" BSPP. Oh joy! I'm hoping I can find an adapter that would allow me to use SH couplers or a coupler like the SH but with 3/8" BSPP threads.
I think I have the M6060 rear remote coupler swap figured out. It's going to cost around $200 for the swap but worth it to me if it keeps the rear end of the tractor from getting covered in hydraulic oil. The Summit Hydraulic multipliers on both tractors use the same kind of Pioneer style (agricultural) couplers and I like them. The adapters cost more than the couplers, and I could select the poppet style instead of the ball valve style couplers. Most of my implements have poppet style male couplers but ball and poppet are interchangeable.
The one thing I need to confirm is the NPTF and NPT interface between the adapter and the coupler. The threads are different in the way they seal, but NPTF is intended for hydraulic/fuel applications with the F standing for Fuel.
6 adapters > 3/8" BSPP (male) to 1/2" NPTF (male)
6 couplers > Summit Hydraulics 1/2″ Ag Couplers, Ball Valve, 1/2″ NPT Thread
The one thing I need to confirm is the NPTF and NPT interface between the adapter and the coupler. The threads are different in the way they seal, but NPTF is intended for hydraulic/fuel applications with the F standing for Fuel.
6 adapters > 3/8" BSPP (male) to 1/2" NPTF (male)
6 couplers > Summit Hydraulics 1/2″ Ag Couplers, Ball Valve, 1/2″ NPT Thread
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Why in the hell do we even have British threads in this country! Judas Priest, we beat those bastards in a war! They can't even speak english correctly! Don't get me started!
Oh my…what’s in the coffee this morning?
That’s interesting though…where do you suppose that Metal Band came from?
That’s interesting though…where do you suppose that Metal Band came from?
Oh, I am like this all the time! My sense of humor isn't for everyone, it's best that I live in the country away from people. I don't like change and I don't like stupid.Oh my…what’s in the coffee this morning?
That’s interesting though…where do you suppose that Metal Band came from?
In this case you should embrace BSP.
It was there long before NPT.
And besides that, any measuring system not based on the Arabic decimal system is for the bin anyway. Way too cumbersome for practical use.