Stuck in the sand: Front end loader submerged on North Shore beach
Crews eventually towed the machine from the water when the tide went out.
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What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
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Probably not, but I like having options, and that feature was awesome when I emptied the 70-gallon fuel tank in the boat. There are other ways to empty a fuel tank of course such as a 12V pump, but this was such an easy way to do it. I connected the EWK to the fuel line that ran to the original engine, opened the valve to allow compressed air to flow, and it took less than a minute to fill up the 10 liter container. It took a lot more time pouring the case into 5 gallon containers so that I could use it in the Jeep.
Changed out the factory step for a two step from Specialtyrepairscustommods.com I have used their products on three different tractors. Much easier on my hip and heel getting in and out of the tractor.
I think you have the chicken math solution backward my friend.
Read the above and said that sounds familiar--started with 6, max 34, now 28. I thought chicken math is what we men do with a slide rule and a tractor to estimate how many chickens she will eventually get/want and try to stay ahead of that estimate with proper coop/fence/yard/storage size to outpace her chicken rusings in the future...
The FEL sure works better than a wheelbarrow for coop cleaning, carrying to burn pile or spreading out in the woods.
She: Money can't buy happiness, but money can buy chickens, and chickens make her happy.
Us: Money can't buy happiness, but money can buy a tractor and more tractor stuff, and using said tractor for her chicken stuff makes her happy, and THAT makes us happy.
For those who plow with their tractors during winter with a snow plow....
I have a Land Pride STB1072, it worked great last winter. But it sucked having to get on and off the tractor to change the angle of the plow. I plan on adding a 3rd function and I'd like to add a cylinder with a cushion valve to the plow. However, I know the land pride plow has an option for two cylinders. So my question is, what would be the benefit of having dual - dual action cylinders version one?
I tried researching it but couldn't find much that explains it. Yes two is often better than one, but WHAT are the benefits. I can only imagine that dual cylinders would be much more robust as one pulls and the other pushes. Also I would think the dual cylinders would keep the plow from tilting a little when angled to keep the plow parallel to the surface. I had that issue with the one cylinder on the plow I had for the side by side. But I have seen a lot of tractor plows with just one cylinder and people were happy with it.
I have a Land Pride STB1072, it worked great last winter. But it sucked having to get on and off the tractor to change the angle of the plow. I plan on adding a 3rd function and I'd like to add a cylinder with a cushion valve to the plow. However, I know the land pride plow has an option for two cylinders. So my question is, what would be the benefit of having dual - dual action cylinders version one?
I tried researching it but couldn't find much that explains it. Yes two is often better than one, but WHAT are the benefits. I can only imagine that dual cylinders would be much more robust as one pulls and the other pushes. Also I would think the dual cylinders would keep the plow from tilting a little when angled to keep the plow parallel to the surface. I had that issue with the one cylinder on the plow I had for the side by side. But I have seen a lot of tractor plows with just one cylinder and people were happy with it.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Look at the way the two cylinders are plumbed together. They will work in unison with just two hoses from the tractor hydraulics. I assume it is done that way because the cylinders will be “stronger” and move less (or not at all) in that configuration. And it is easy to control with that configuration.
RCW
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Mowed the lawn for the last time this year.
Mower will come off and we’ll start to head towards winter ops with the snowblower and chains.
Put the winter work lights back on. They don’t look like much but put out a lot of light. A couple 6” angle brackets I had on hand years ago.
Mower will come off and we’ll start to head towards winter ops with the snowblower and chains.
Put the winter work lights back on. They don’t look like much but put out a lot of light. A couple 6” angle brackets I had on hand years ago.
The bigger the blade the greater the load on it, both from what's in front of it and what's behind it. I'm typically angling the blade while I'm moving and when there's a significant load on the blade. There is no downside to dual angle cylinders other than cost, but many upsides. Take a look at HLA who are one of the premier manufacturers of snow equipment. Their smaller hydraulic angle snowblades (Series 1000 & 2000) have one angle cylinder, but all of their heavier models (Series 3000, 4000, 5000 and 6000) have two. HLA knows a thing or two about snow removal.
My STB1596 has two angle cylinders which makes for a well-balanced, fast acting and robust set up.
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Changed the hydraulic fluid in the BX (400 hr). Came out pretty clear and the filter screen was clear as well. I hit it with brake cleaner just be safe. Pressure washed and greased the mower deck since it was off and put it all back together. Now to get to the front axle. Will use 80-90 gear oil for that.
Last week I started to punch a hole in my rock infested, bedrock infested, Martian-like landscape using the Land Pride HD25 PHD, Land Pride 6" rock auger and the MX6000. Progress was slow but it was working ... kind of.
Earlier this week I got the PHD on the M6060 and it's a much better experience. There's a learning curve for sure, and figuring out how much down force to use with loader, how fast to rotate the auger, when to reverse rotation etc., is all part of the process. I found that running the engine at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm is more than enough when cutting through rock. Slow and steady seems to be the way with no idea to be done in a hurry.
The size and weight of the M6060 in addition to it not heating up the hydraulic oil the way the MX does is a much better option, and the proof of concept test this morning resulted in a nice hole through rock and dirt to a depth of about 42". The auger measures approximately 36" from the tip of the cutting head to the end of the flight nearest to the head. With the shield just about touching the dirt the hole is around 42" deep. Next step is to drop in a 20ft section of 6" pipe and see how it sits.
If all is good, and not knowing if this hole is the hardest to drill, or easiest or somewhere in between, I'll continue making holes for the first pole/barn shed. It occurred to me that the tractor and PHD won't care if the ground is frozen or not, so if the work continues on through the winter then so be it. I did add some water to the hole to get the "dirt" to bind together so that it would come out on the flight, and that worked, but probably not a good plan when it's -20°F out.
Earlier this week I got the PHD on the M6060 and it's a much better experience. There's a learning curve for sure, and figuring out how much down force to use with loader, how fast to rotate the auger, when to reverse rotation etc., is all part of the process. I found that running the engine at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm is more than enough when cutting through rock. Slow and steady seems to be the way with no idea to be done in a hurry.
The size and weight of the M6060 in addition to it not heating up the hydraulic oil the way the MX does is a much better option, and the proof of concept test this morning resulted in a nice hole through rock and dirt to a depth of about 42". The auger measures approximately 36" from the tip of the cutting head to the end of the flight nearest to the head. With the shield just about touching the dirt the hole is around 42" deep. Next step is to drop in a 20ft section of 6" pipe and see how it sits.
If all is good, and not knowing if this hole is the hardest to drill, or easiest or somewhere in between, I'll continue making holes for the first pole/barn shed. It occurred to me that the tractor and PHD won't care if the ground is frozen or not, so if the work continues on through the winter then so be it. I did add some water to the hole to get the "dirt" to bind together so that it would come out on the flight, and that worked, but probably not a good plan when it's -20°F out.
I noticed some people leave their tractors running while refueling. Some of them shut the tractor off while refueling. I know diesel has a low flash point but I think the main concern is to limit stating and shutting off the tractor a number of times but then again it's modern tractor should be able to handle it.
So what do you guys do when refueling? Do you leave it running especially when it's cold out while it's warming up or do you shut off, refuel and the turn it back on?
So what do you guys do when refueling? Do you leave it running especially when it's cold out while it's warming up or do you shut off, refuel and the turn it back on?
I shut everything down while fueling. If it's a small gas engine I'll let it cool down first.
I fill my tractor fuel tank before I start for the day, so the engine hasn't been started yet.
