Assuming port 5 is where OP has 370 psi, I concur. Unless something is amiss there, I think disassembly is the next step.
L4200 pto problem
- Thread starter Gjackson
- Start date
So what am I looking for if I remove the valve? Torn o rings, worn shaft??
North Idaho Wolfman
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So what am I looking for if I remove the valve? Torn o rin
Oh ok, well that's mildly promising
So what am I looking for if I remove the valve? Torn o rin
Ok so how deep is this valve? Do i have to totally drain gearbox and remove the main feed line with filter housing? All looks a bit tight but may come out. Its on the ramp so im committed now
Ok that was snug. So am I right in thinking the oil goes into valve, it turns and sends it down that tiny tube inside the gearbox? I can't see any gunk, it's very clean. Someone has been in there before though as there is rtv sealant on valve and box to axle flange too.So what am I looking for if I remove the valve? Torn o rin
Ok so how deep is this valve? Do i have to totally drain gearbox and remove the main feed line with filter housing? All looks a bit tight but may come out. Its on the ramp so im committed now
Does that pipe look right? It feels almost rubber. I haven't found anything untoward...
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Have you taken the valve apart and looked at all the internal parts and ports?
Carefully pull the feed pipe out and then you can put air to that port and you will hear the clutch close, if you hear air after the clutch is supposed to close then you have a bad hydraulic clutch or seal, and you will need to get into it all the way to repair it.
Yes that pipe has a pipe center with a soft exterior wrap to seal.
Carefully pull the feed pipe out and then you can put air to that port and you will hear the clutch close, if you hear air after the clutch is supposed to close then you have a bad hydraulic clutch or seal, and you will need to get into it all the way to repair it.
Yes that pipe has a pipe center with a soft exterior wrap to seal.
Ah ok, great advice thanks. I didn't take it apart as it was all so clean, but it's still out so I will strip it. Very dangerous game taking that pipe out as if i drop it I'm in trouble
could I not just put a tube over it and onto blow gun to listen?
North Idaho Wolfman
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You could put a blow gun to the end of the tube with a rubber tip, just be aware that it could just blow the tube out of there.Ah ok, great advice thanks. I didn't take it apart as it was all so clean, but it's still out so I will strip it. Very dangerous game taking that pipe out as if i drop it I'm in trouble
Ok so I'm assuming this is bad
not sure if this will work as it didn't like my format.Basically I blow air into pipe and it bubbles all around in the oil
Ok so I'm assuming this is bad
Basically I blow air into pipe and it bubbles all around in the oil
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North Idaho Wolfman
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that's what I thought you'd say. So let's get down to it, firstly do i need to totally remove cab or can I just lift it a foot or so, secondly do I need to split tractor at at clutch to then split it further back or can I just split it at the back? Im dreading this 
North Idaho Wolfman
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Removing the cab is a better way to go, it will make things easier not only to disassemble but to reassemble.
You can split it at the rear and work forward.
You can split it at the rear and work forward.
Right ok, thanks. So is the clutch pack rebuildable? I thought it was a set of friction plates. So can you replace seals too??
North Idaho Wolfman
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With as much air as you have bypassing, and with the fact that you get zero clutch engagement.
I would be more apt to think the clutch pack housing has damage, Like a main snap ring or drum failure (Yellow).
The friction plates and clutch disks are probably going to be the least of your worries. (blue)
If you get totally lucky it will just have a damaged piston seals or input seals. (Green)
The whole assembly new is about $2,000, used about $500.
I would be more apt to think the clutch pack housing has damage, Like a main snap ring or drum failure (Yellow).
The friction plates and clutch disks are probably going to be the least of your worries. (blue)
If you get totally lucky it will just have a damaged piston seals or input seals. (Green)
The whole assembly new is about $2,000, used about $500.