1640a loader float?

[Mbiggs]

Stupid question, have a new to me B1750 with 1640a loader. Assuming loader is too old to have a float mode for the bucket, or is it just operator error on my end, as I can not see a way to get loader to float

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yes it has float.
If it won't engage it probably has a detent section thats damaged.
Sadly the kit to fix it has been discontinued.

If you really need float your next option is to replace the valve with a newer model.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

How are you trying to engage it?

I ask this because I had a buddy that had a tractor for years, and he never new about it.

On my 2501, you push the stick forward and when it stops, you give it a little harder push and you can "feel it" go into the detent.

I am not sure if its the same on your machine though.

 

[Mbiggs]

Awesome. I will have to check it out. Sorry for stupid question. First Kubota. First tractor with FEL so learning curve.
so essentially, I push hydraulic control forward, then give it a little more?

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Awesome. I will have to check it out. Sorry for stupid question. First Kubota. First tractor with FEL so learning curve.
so essentially, I push hydraulic control forward, then give it a little more?

Yep. Push the loader joystick straight forward, like your lowering it, then when it feels maxed out, give it a little jolt forward and you should feel it "click " in place.

It's not a stupid question.

Everyone starts somewhere.

Let us know know if it works.

 

[Mbiggs]

Well had a chance to mess with FEL. Unfortunately it appears the detent has failed. It will go into float mode but pops back out. Any cost ideas of what it would take to get working?

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Any cost ideas of what it would take to get working?

I have no idea on cost.

But if it is actually working when you hold it in that position, that would beg the question of "Do you use it enough to actually "fix it"?

What I mean is, I use my "float mode" so very infrequently, I don't think it would be too inconvenient to just hold it there manually.

I only use it "now and again" for a few seconds.

Just a thought.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well had a chance to mess with FEL. Unfortunately it appears the detent has failed. It will go into float mode but pops back out. Any cost ideas of what it would take to get working?

My B1630 was like that from the day I bought it. I always thought it was normal.

Dan

 

[chim]

First thought is to do as Runs With Scissors suggests.

IF you are mechanically inclined, patient and lucky you could have a look at the innards. I once had a B7500 that "lost" the float mode. Although it was stored inside water must have gotten into the valve (not into the hydraulic section, but where the balls and springs live).

First thing I did was remove what looks like a cap on the bottom and have balls bounce around on the garage floor. Ever have that "Oh crap, what have I done" feeling? Well, without a WSM the repair proceeded anyway. The cause was some corrosion that was addressed with some Scotchbrite or fine sandpaper. I sort of recall a raised ring/rib on a cylindrical part that was pretty rough. Unfortunately, one of the balls that escaped went into permanent hiding. Very fortunately for me there is a great hardware store about 1/2 hour away - Paul B Hardware just outside of Ephrata. They have nearly everything and that included individual balls for bearings. Took a caliper and a ball that didn't get lost to the store and for a few cents was back in the game.

Disassembly was much easier than reassembly. Both were done with the valve still on the tractor. It was at least a three-handed job. Although there was no third hand available there probably wasn't room for it anyway. It may have been easier with the valve removed and in different orientation and in a vise. I'm sure that during reassembly it got lubed or anti-siezed. This was not long after Y2K and it was fine till it went away in favor of an L3200 in 2012.

 

[Mbiggs]

I have no idea on cost.

But if it is actually working when you hold it in that position, that would beg the question of "Do you use it enough to actually "fix it"?

What I mean is, I use my "float mode" so very infrequently, I don't think it would be too inconvenient to just hold it there manually.

I only use it "now and again" for a few seconds.

Just a thought.

That is a fair question and probably the answer. Even though it’s old, I’m abit of a perfectionist, and want everything as original as possible. Odds are, I would never use it honestly. But if it’s a reasonable fix, I would probably spend the money

 

[Runs With Scissors]

That is a fair question and probably the answer. Even though it’s old, I’m abit of a perfectionist, and want everything as original as possible. Odds are, I would never use it honestly. But if it’s a reasonable fix, I would probably spend the money

I do understand that.

If @TheOldHokie was like that from the factory, could yours just be "the way they came" from the factory back then?

I have no idea, but I suppose it's possible.

Maybe there is a factory manual somewhere that explains how to use that function. It might shed some light on if it is normal or not.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I do understand that.

If @TheOldHokie was like that from the factory, could yours just be "the way they came" from the factory back then?

I have no idea, but I suppose it's possible.

Maybe there is a factory manual somewhere that explains how to use that function. It might shed some light on if it is normal or not.

I bought my tractor used with about 350 hours on ths clock but it was in excellent shape. I have the liader parts and operators manual and will see what it says. I have plowed a lot of snow and backdragged a lot of gravel holding that lever in float....

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

I do understand that.

If @TheOldHokie was like that from the factory, could yours just be "the way they came" from the factory back then?

I have no idea, but I suppose it's possible.

Maybe there is a factory manual somewhere that explains how to use that function. It might shed some light on if it is normal or not.

The factory manual covers all variants of the B1630 and B1640. It has a full section on "operating in float" but its silent on the detent. It simply says "when operating on hard surfaces like pavement put the control in the fliat position". There is no mention of "detent" anywhere just the typical joystick directional diagram showing DOWN followed by FLOAT. There is no internal parts breakdown for the control valve itself.

Maybe its just a prejudice formed by years of running the B1630 like that but I find the hard locking detent on my LA525 less operator friendly.

Dan

 

[chim]

........................It simply says "when operating on hard surfaces like pavement put the control in the float position". .........................

..........................Maybe its just a prejudice formed by years of running the B1630 like that but I find the hard locking detent on my LA525 less operator friendly.

Dan

Since the word PUT is used in lieu of HOLD it may mean that the stick should remain in float position without assistance.

Before getting the snow blade on my tractor I used the loader and a rear blade for snow removal. When using the loader I'd float it. It was nice to have the joystick hold itself.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Since the word PUT is used in lieu of HOLD it may mean that the stick should remain in float position without assistance.

Before getting the snow blade on my tractor I used the loader and a rear blade for snow removal. When using the loader I'd float it. It was nice to have the joystick hold itself.

It cpuld mean that or it could nean move it and hold it.

What I know is from the very git-go the detent on mine wa very light - just enough to prevent accidentally shifting to float but not heavy enough to hold it there. Now we have a second one behaving like that.

Which prompts me to ask how the detent between the fast extend and full power dump positions on Kubota's 4 position valves works. I would definitly not want that to hold. I would want spring return to center from both positions as soon as I released the lever.

Dan

 

[D2Cat]

First thought is to do as Runs With Scissors suggests.

IF you are mechanically inclined, patient and lucky you could have a look at the innards. I once had a B7500 that "lost" the float mode. Although it was stored inside water must have gotten into the valve (not into the hydraulic section, but where the balls and springs live).

First thing I did was remove what looks like a cap on the bottom and have balls bounce around on the garage floor. Ever have that "Oh crap, what have I done" feeling? Well, without a WSM the repair proceeded anyway. The cause was some corrosion that was addressed with some Scotchbrite or fine sandpaper. I sort of recall a raised ring/rib on a cylindrical part that was pretty rough. Unfortunately, one of the balls that escaped went into permanent hiding. Very fortunately for me there is a great hardware store about 1/2 hour away - Paul B Hardware just outside of Ephrata. They have nearly everything and that included individual balls for bearings. Took a caliper and a ball that didn't get lost to the store and for a few cents was back in the game.

Disassembly was much easier than reassembly. Both were done with the valve still on the tractor. It was at least a three-handed job. Although there was no third hand available there probably wasn't room for it anyway. It may have been easier with the valve removed and in different orientation and in a vise. I'm sure that during reassembly it got lubed or anti-siezed. This was not long after Y2K and it was fine till it went away in favor of an L3200 in 2012.

I've had a very similar experience. I believe what happens is moisture gets in that end of the valve and eventually some dirt/dust and rust begins forming. I remember finding all the components (just good fortune) after beginning and got it all reassembled. The mucky crud was cleaned and applied some lithium grease. The grease actually helped in getting the balls back in place (there were 3 or 4), I do think the spring was rusted bad enough it was no good. I found a replacement at the hardware store. It worked fine after that.

To repair you only remove the cap on the far end of the spools where the lever is attached. (Not the lever end. The opposite end). There are two caps and the float parts are under the longer cap, held on by a couple of screws. Proceed at your own risk!!