Exhaust modification

[Paul Allwood]

The original muffler had to go as it was in the way of the support frame for the front loader I'm making. I made a new square flange and welded on the exhaust tube.

The thread on the old exhaust mount studs were pretty rusted. Two came out on but the other two broke off so I drilled them out. Drilled out all for threads to replace studs with bolts.

It sounds a little noisier with the new exhaust, but ok.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yea glass packs on a diesel don't work worth a hoot.
Your loader tower supports should have come down in line with the front frame not over top of it.

 

[Paul Allwood]

Yea glass packs on a diesel don't work worth a hoot.
Your loader tower supports should have come down in line with the front frame not over top of it.

Do you mean the bit in the red circle ? I put the supports where they are to make sure they are clear of the front tyres. I don't remember which way it was, but on full lock and maximum articulation the tyres get close. The support brackets do go right down the back of the front bar as well as across the top - I don't think it will be a problem.

 

[Paul Allwood]

Do you mean the bit in the red circle ? I put the supports where they are to make sure they are clear of the front tyres. I don't remember which way it was, but on full lock and maximum articulation the tyres get close. The support brackets do go right down the back of the front bar as well as across the top - I don't think it will be a problem.

Here's some shots of the brackets that support the lower end of the tower supports - just tacked in place to the front bar at the moment, ready to be fully welded.

 

[GeoHorn]

I would suggest you install a cross-over between the tops of the towers to prevent them from spreading when you use the FEL to shove material around. The crossover can be bolted instead of welded so it can be removed to avoid interference with the hood.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Here's some shots of the brackets that support the lower end of the tower supports - just tacked in place to the front bar at the moment, ready to be fully welded.

That part looks good you, should be fine!

Are you making a subframe and axle bars for the rear?

 

[Paul Allwood]

Thanks. Yes, here's some early pics of the sub-frame back to the diff housing. None of the parts are painted yet so it's a bit hard to get a good photo.

 

[Paul Allwood]

I would suggest you install a cross-over between the tops of the towers to prevent them from spreading when you use the FEL to shove material around. The crossover can be bolted instead of welded so it can be removed to avoid interference with the hood.

Thanks. That's the plan.

 

[barts]

The loader on our B5100 is actually one (B219) for a B7200; I built a new subframe to fit the B5100. Tying the towers together would definitely make things a bit sturdier; I re-used the towers from the B219 which were not tied together. I definitely need more clearance at full wheel articulation w/ the front supports; when I finish my shop I'll spend some quality time w/ a grinder. I might be able to snake a support between the towers with enough clearance to be able to open the hood w/o removing the cross brace.

 

[Paul Allwood]

The loader on our B5100 is actually one (B219) for a B7200; I built a new subframe to fit the B5100. Tying the towers together would definitely make things a bit sturdier; I re-used the towers from the B219 which were not tied together. I definitely need more clearance at full wheel articulation w/ the front supports; when I finish my shop I'll spend some quality time w/ a grinder. I might be able to snake a support between the towers with enough clearance to be able to open the hood w/o removing the cross brace.


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I like your sub-frame design. Nicely done. I made mine in several pieces that bolt together - I think yours looks better.

 

[GeoHorn]

That’s very pretty work!

A “bolt-together” would be better from a commercial production standpoint…so it can be shipped …and can be assembled by an ordinary owner. But the welded structure is likely stronger and lighter.

 

[Paul Allwood]

That’s very pretty work!

A “bolt-together” would be better from a commercial production standpoint…so it can be shipped …and can be assembled by an ordinary owner. But the welded structure is likely stronger and lighter.

You're probably right about the bolt together being easier for shipping, but with the number, size and class of bolts I've used I don't think I'll have a problem with strength. Part of the reason I made it bolt together was so that I could fit and remove it without removing the mower deck - now that it's done, I don't really think this was necessary. It just seemed like a good idea at the time.

Yours would definitely be lighter - I'll just call my extra weight ballast.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks. Yes, here's some early pics of the sub-frame back to the diff housing. None of the parts are painted yet so it's a bit hard to get a good photo.

Looks excellent!

 

[Paul Allwood]

Looks excellent!

Thanks

 

[torch]

The original muffler had to go as it was in the way of the support frame for the front loader I'm making. I made a new square flange and welded on the exhaust tube.

Boy that tall exhaust looks like a lot of leverage on that small cast flange.

 

[Paul Allwood]

Boy that tall exhaust looks like a lot of leverage on that small cast flange.

You might be right, time will tell.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Lots of talented people on this board.

I like both subframes for different reasons.

I like the welded one for it's "sleek'ness", and I like the bolted one for "future accessibility".

I have no idea which one would be "stronger" though. Not too many things are welded on an aircraft, and they take lots of weird stress's.

Either way, great job! (both of you).


How are/did y'all cut out the parts?

 

[Paul Allwood]

Lots of talented people on this board.

I like both subframes for different reasons.

I like the welded one for it's "sleek'ness", and I like the bolted one for "future accessibility".

I have no idea which one would be "stronger" though. Not too many things are welded on an aircraft, and they take lots of weird stress's.

Either way, great job! (both of you).


How are/did y'all cut out the parts?

Thanks. I cut mine with a 9" angle grinder.

 

[chim]

Thanks. I cut mine with a 9" angle grinder.

Very nice work and congrats on using what you have available to accomplish it.

 

[barts]

Lots of talented people on this board.

I like both subframes for different reasons.

I like the welded one for it's "sleek'ness", and I like the bolted one for "future accessibility".

I have no idea which one would be "stronger" though. Not too many things are welded on an aircraft, and they take lots of weird stress's.

Either way, great job! (both of you).


How are/did y'all cut out the parts?

thanks!.... I used a 4"x6" generic metal cutting band saw.