I have a quick question I have a loader kit on my L2600DT. My question is I want to add a single remote for a mini backhoe attachment. Can I just tee in to the Pressure line and return line or do I relly need valving?
Adding a single rear remote
- Thread starter austinopa
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Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
You can NOT tee into the pressure line. The pressure would always flow to the lower pressure line and the implements would not work properly.
Run the line from the Power Beyond in a valve to the next valve. The fluid flows from one valve to the next until one valve gets activated.
You need to use valves if you want each implement to be able to work.
You can remove any implement and valve from the system if you don’t need it to work while using the other implement but that is a silly way to use it since the costs of having all implements working in very little.
Search for rear remote installation and you will find many diagrams on how to plumb in a rear remote and a backhoe. You should post information on this “mini backhoe” and then you will get better information.
Run the line from the Power Beyond in a valve to the next valve. The fluid flows from one valve to the next until one valve gets activated.
You need to use valves if you want each implement to be able to work.
You can remove any implement and valve from the system if you don’t need it to work while using the other implement but that is a silly way to use it since the costs of having all implements working in very little.
Search for rear remote installation and you will find many diagrams on how to plumb in a rear remote and a backhoe. You should post information on this “mini backhoe” and then you will get better information.
Other than the 4 lines going to the bucket for lift and curl; how many other hoses are attached to the FEL valve (I'm guessing 3 but check on that).
Do you need a rear remote and a connection for the backhoe (or do you just need power to the backhoe). Assume the backhoe has it's own valve body.
Do you need a rear remote and a connection for the backhoe (or do you just need power to the backhoe). Assume the backhoe has it's own valve body.
TheOldHokie
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Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
No tees.
- Disconnect loader power beyond from tractor and run it to rear. Put a female coupler on it - thats the backhoe supply.
- Put a male coupler on a new hose and run it forward to the port disconnected in step 1. Thats your backhoe return.
When the backhoe is not connected loop those two couplers together.
Dan
I get ahold of the attachment next week. All I really noticed on it was the two quick disconnects hoses. It's raining but I when out and got a couple of pictures. (I not turning down any kind of help. Because I really don't want to have to add a pump and a tank, and I like to learn more as well) It does have 7 hoses. Four for the curl and boom cylinders and three to the rear of tractor. Looks like two pressure lines and a drain line. Thanks for chiming in
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Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Okay I see two hoses at the block, where does the third line from the FEL valve go? It may be shown somewhere but I don’t see it.
TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Just remember to shut the engine off before connecting/disconnecting those couplers.
Dan
Everyone has been so helpful and I really appreciate all the guidance. I'll keep everyone posted next week. Y’all have a happy July 4th.
North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Are you talking a three point BH?
Make sure you get the top link reinforcing bracket.
And you'll need a BH loop not a remote.
Or are you talking a BH bucket for the loader?
If it's that then what you need is a Third function valve for the loader.
Make sure you get the top link reinforcing bracket.
And you'll need a BH loop not a remote.
Or are you talking a BH bucket for the loader?
If it's that then what you need is a Third function valve for the loader.
This is what I did several years ago and have never had any problems with it whatsoever. Very simple.
www.tractorinnovations.com
Kubota Remote Hydraulic Kits | TractorInnovations
Tractor Innovations Remote Hydraulic Kits for Kubota Tractors. Custom ready to Plug & Play. Made in USA.
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Kubota L175. 2 cylinder diesel. Raw materials for the loader assembly from a Ford 703 loader system. Hydraulic cylinders from Surpluccenter.com. I know NOTHING about the hydraulic valves of the 703. My very FIRST hydraulics project.
OK, I just read the responses about "no tee". Well, that's what I did. That can be backed out, but then how do I give power to my cobbled together end loader?
In the current setup, if I pull back on the 3 point hitch lever until the 3 point hitch stalls in up, the end loader has all the pressure it needs. If the 3 point hitch lever is in the neutral position, nothing happens. I'm guessing the 3 point hitch valve dumps everything back in the reservoir until the lever is pulled.
If I install a cutoff valve in the line to the 3 point hitch hydraulics, it would cure this, but at the cost of the hydraulic pump relief valve operating full time.
I am counting on your knowledge to help me solve this puzzle.
OK, I just read the responses about "no tee". Well, that's what I did. That can be backed out, but then how do I give power to my cobbled together end loader?
In the current setup, if I pull back on the 3 point hitch lever until the 3 point hitch stalls in up, the end loader has all the pressure it needs. If the 3 point hitch lever is in the neutral position, nothing happens. I'm guessing the 3 point hitch valve dumps everything back in the reservoir until the lever is pulled.
If I install a cutoff valve in the line to the 3 point hitch hydraulics, it would cure this, but at the cost of the hydraulic pump relief valve operating full time.
I am counting on your knowledge to help me solve this puzzle.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
No. No, No!!!
Stop experimenting and start asking questions. You will get good solid advice and its not hard to do.
Start by posting a picture of the loader valve and where you stuck that tee.
Dan
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Read the first posts in this to see how you would need to get the pressure instead of a tee.
www.orangetractortalks.com
notice the new cover added is actually like cutting a tube in two and diverting the flow to a new path and finally retuning to the other side of the cut and then on to wherever it went before.
You may or may not have that same block mount on your tractor.
B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)
Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...
www.orangetractortalks.com
notice the new cover added is actually like cutting a tube in two and diverting the flow to a new path and finally retuning to the other side of the cut and then on to wherever it went before.
You may or may not have that same block mount on your tractor.