L275 Charge lamp

AJVL

New member

Equipment
L275
Nov 20, 2023
6
0
1
Missouri
I took a L275 in on a labor trade. Work done: Drained and replaced hydraulic oil and engine oil plus filters, new fuel filter and drained old fuel as well as bleed the fuel system at injectors, new battery. I have resealed the steering cylinder and replaced the hoses going to it from the block under the seat as they were leaking pretty bad. I have a service manual on order for it.

What I’m having trouble with: getting it started and charge light staying on. I cycle the glow plugs for about 60secs (assuming they are good, light on the dash doesn’t work), pull the decompression knob until engines spinning well then release it. It turns over slowly and usually have to repeat this process about 7-10 times to get it to fire. Once it fires it will eventually start. I have not used starting fluid and don’t plan too. What is recommended for getting it to start quicker? The charge light on the dash is staying lit after it starts, anyone have recommendations on where to start checking out why? I’m sure this isn’t correct. I do have to place the battery on a tender after the tractor has ran for any amount of time so I’m thinking there is a discharge coming from somewhere.
Thank you, AJ
 
Last edited:

GreensvilleJay

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Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
How long does the charge light stay on 5 minutes or 5 hours ?
Depending on the alternator/dynamo and battery/wires condition it can take 15 minutes or never.
How old is the tractor, # of hours ?


1) replace battery with a new, high CCA one
2) replace primary battery cables with sealed ,molded ones
3) replace ALL glow plugs and GP controller
4) replace fan belt,adjust for correct tension
 

AJVL

New member

Equipment
L275
Nov 20, 2023
6
0
1
Missouri
How long does the charge light stay on 5 minutes or 5 hours ?
Depending on the alternator/dynamo and battery/wires condition it can take 15 minutes or never.
How old is the tractor, # of hours ?


1) replace battery with a new, high CCA one
2) replace primary battery cables with sealed ,molded ones
3) replace ALL glow plugs and GP controller
4) replace fan belt,adjust for correct tension
I have only had it running for about an hour.
Between 1981-1985, unsure of exact year and 2274hrs.

The new battery is a group 24, 700cca
The positive battery cable has been replaced with a sealed/coated one. I’ll replace the woven wire one going to ground.
I will test the glow plugs before replacing. When you say GP controller, I don’t know if there is one. The glow plugs are powered from turning the key left. Not sure if/where the controller would be other than the key.
I will check fan belt for adjustment.
All good ideas! Thank you, AJ
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Jun 9, 2013
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Sandpoint, ID
Two things are a must, check compression, and check glow plug function.
If either are not right it's won't start properly.

Does the glow plug indicator glow when you pre heat?
Your right, there is no glow plug controller on that model.

Then you get into other details like fuel delivery as bad injectors will hinder it starting properly too.

Charging is insignificant to the starting issue.
1700512008326.png
 

Russell King

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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,293
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Austin, Texas
You may want to get a new starter or have the existing one rebuilt. I think you can get a newer style with the gear reduction and spin the engine faster. I was going to have my starter rebuilt but they replaced it with a similar one because of too many problems with the old one. Even that was a great improvement in starting the tractor.

Other things to check are the glow plugs as mentioned and the indicator may need replacing. It never really glows unless it’s pretty dark. All of those parts are pretty inexpensive from the dealer and are NGK branded. The wiring you described is odd. Do you have a key switch to turn the power on and then a separate starter and glow plug switch? That is what my L185 has so the heavy duty stuff is handled by that second switch.

If you look at the glow plug wiring it is a bit odd but the glow plugs are powered through the indicator (resistor) while in the glow position but the are also powered in the crank position but the indicator is bypassed. The glow plugs don’t see 12 volts in either position (if the starter is actually cranking the engine). I don’t know the exact voltage value but it is 10.5 or so at the glow plugs. If the indicator is out of the current wiring then I would be very suspicious of the glow plugs actually being good.

You may wan’t to verify the compression release cable has some slack at the engine attachment point. And make sure that the lever returns freely when the cable is released.
 

Russell King

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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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And for the charge lamp, replace the belt, tighten the belt, replace the alternator and the regulator. It should go off like normal in a few seconds if everything is good.

But check the ground cable connection on the frame and the regulator ground first. They are always suspect.
 

AJVL

New member

Equipment
L275
Nov 20, 2023
6
0
1
Missouri
Two things are a must, check compression, and check glow plug function.
If either are not right it's won't start properly.

Does the glow plug indicator glow when you pre heat?
Your right, there is no glow plug controller on that model.

Then you get into other details like fuel delivery as bad injectors will hinder it starting properly too.

Charging is insignificant to the starting issue.
View attachment 116516
I will pull the glow plugs and check their operation. The glow plug indicator does not glow. I do agree the charging is insignificant to the starting issue I’m just trying to bring up what I’m having issues with and go from there. Thank you, AJ
 

AJVL

New member

Equipment
L275
Nov 20, 2023
6
0
1
Missouri
You may want to get a new starter or have the existing one rebuilt. I think you can get a newer style with the gear reduction and spin the engine faster. I was going to have my starter rebuilt but they replaced it with a similar one because of too many problems with the old one. Even that was a great improvement in starting the tractor.

Other things to check are the glow plugs as mentioned and the indicator may need replacing. It never really glows unless it’s pretty dark. All of those parts are pretty inexpensive from the dealer and are NGK branded. The wiring you described is odd. Do you have a key switch to turn the power on and then a separate starter and glow plug switch? That is what my L185 has so the heavy duty stuff is handled by that second switch.

If you look at the glow plug wiring it is a bit odd but the glow plugs are powered through the indicator (resistor) while in the glow position but the are also powered in the crank position but the indicator is bypassed. The glow plugs don’t see 12 volts in either position (if the starter is actually cranking the engine). I don’t know the exact voltage value but it is 10.5 or so at the glow plugs. If the indicator is out of the current wiring then I would be very suspicious of the glow plugs actually being good.

You may wan’t to verify the compression release cable has some slack at the engine attachment point. And make sure that the lever returns freely when the cable is released.
I was thinking about having the starter rebuilt or replaced with new. I only have one switch to operate both the glow plugs and start circuit. I understand what you’re saying about the glow plugs and the indicator. Where the GP may be working when turning the engine over but not when trying to “pre-heat” due to faulty indicator. The compression release moves freely, seems okay. If I can remember correctly the lever/knob does not return by itself, I have to push it in once I feel the engine has sufficient rpm to try and start. Thank you, AJ
 

AJVL

New member

Equipment
L275
Nov 20, 2023
6
0
1
Missouri
And for the charge lamp, replace the belt, tighten the belt, replace the alternator and the regulator. It should go off like normal in a few seconds if everything is good.

But check the ground cable connection on the frame and the regulator ground first. They are always suspect.
Just as GreensvilleJay recommended, I will check the belt and adjust/replace if necessary. I am going to bench test the regulator first and see if it’s shot then move to the alternator. Thank you, AJ
 

AJVL

New member

Equipment
L275
Nov 20, 2023
6
0
1
Missouri
Following up on this, as I’ve had time to do the following.
  1. I took the cover off the regulator and tested it. Contact arms inside were free and tested using a test procedure from the local Kubota dealer. Checked out good
  2. Replaced original negative battery cable with new sealed coating one going to a spot on the frame that I sanded down to get a better ground.
  3. Removed dash panel to check into Glow plug indicator. Found one nut loose on the back side, so more than likely the glow plugs were not working 100%. Now whenever I cycle the key ignition to the glow plug position the indicator heats up and glows red. Glow plugs are now measuring 10VDC.
  4. Fan belt was indeed loose. Tightened belt.​
After doing all of this the engine doesn’t seem to turn over any faster so I’m thinking to have the starter rebuild or replace it. It does start easier than before with the glow plugs working again, hopefully it stays that way. The charging light on the dash only stayed lit for about 30 seconds after the tractor was started. I think the fan belt being loose was the problem for the charge light staying lit. The battery with the engine running at idle was at 12.8VDC. At half throttle 13.1VDC. At full throttle 13.4VDC.

Looking for recommendations on fan belt brand and part numbers for a L275. Current belt number are worn off and belt has some good cracks in it, it’s time to replace.

Also looking for some pictures of how the ROPS is secured to a L275. Person I got the tractor from had removed it but kept it. Whenever I got it he gave me what he had but I think some parts are missing.

Thank you again for everyone’s help and suggestions!! -AJ
 

Russell King

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
5,293
1,349
113
Austin, Texas
See this thread for the installation instructions


There is a link in that thread that I posted to another thread about how the installation went on my L185F
 

evantwheeler

Member

Equipment
L305dt, L345dt x2
Apr 19, 2023
37
26
18
Menifee, CA
Following up on this, as I’ve had time to do the following.
  1. I took the cover off the regulator and tested it. Contact arms inside were free and tested using a test procedure from the local Kubota dealer. Checked out good

Thank you again for everyone’s help and suggestions!! -AJ
Can you share this procedure? Sounds like you are on your way to having a nice "free" tractor!