blew a hole in the side of the block

[joesmith123]

If you have a lot of spare time and cash burning a hole in your pocket and enjoy rebuilding antiques with hard to find parts it will be a walk in the park for you.

I'm not nostalgic so I'd be more inclined to scrap it and buy a new work machine.

Which parts exactly are going to be hard to find? There is an entire machine available for parts

Spare time: I dont have any, but the value of having the machine is so tremendous, that I literally have to figure it out

"Scrap it and buy a new one": Have you seen the cost of anything comparable?

 

[NCL4701]

As others have said, you have to figure out what knocked a hole in it and fix whatever that is. So far as fixing a hole in the block, my father bought a 8N (gas) tractor in the late 60’s with a busted block. Patched it with two part epoxy (similar to JB Weld). I remember as a teenager it started leaking so we cleaned it up and re-caulked with JB Weld. It was still running and not leaking when we sold it earlier this year.

I’m the baby in the photo shortly after the original repair.

Same tractor with same patched block in 2023 towing a mower I still haven’t gotten around to fixing.

The motor may be trashed but the mere fact there’s a hole in the block doesn’t mean it’s trashed.

 

[joesmith123]

It's not 'hard', just a LOT of steps, many of which you get to do twice.
You already KNOW it'll take a lot of time, the 'trick' is to do it in 'stages' and be organized !
First step is to pressure wash both tractors really ,really good. 100% of both of them. The goal is to be able to see CLEAN nuts, bolts,parts...
2nd step. Now while they're drip drying, clean out the entire double car garage and start collecting materials needed to 'split' the tractors. SOLID wood blocks for support,NOT hollow cinder blocks ! Clean off the workbench,better yet build a 2nd one. That'll keep the 'donor' parts separate from the 'original' ones !

I'd remove and store the loader outside,that way both tractors are the 'same' to work on.
Hopefully you've got the WSM(WorkShopManual), if not get one.As an alternative, download pages from the online parts website they'll give you an idea where stuff is and what it's called.
Take LOTS of pictures , from all sides, different angles. It'll help when reassembling ! Something as simple as a clip upside down can cause you a lot of grief and loss of hair.

Yes it is a challenge but done in small steps, you CAN do it. When you get to a 'frustrating' point, put down the tools, close the garage door and go back tomorrow. Treat the 'project' as a 'hobby', something to do.....

As for the hole in the block....others have simple had the hole 'filled and patched'. It's not under any real 'pressure'. You might get lucky and just need a new conrod.bearing and cap though it'd be a good idea to look at the rest of the engine's 'bottom end' as it's 40 years old. How 'deep' a rebuild depends on the damage, what time you have, money in the wallet,......

Maybe check for rebuilt engines or someone local that can do that for you ? In my case, engine guy wanted $5K CDN to rebuild and that was AFTER I pulled the engine. That was 10 years ago, didn't do it, so what if forklift burns a 'little' extra oil ?

There is so much good data here, I honestly hope I do not have to split the tractor, and also taking off that bucket, there are many bolts etc

But yes more detailed plan:

First try the patch idea. Fix the parts like you guys told me, fix the bottom end, and then maybe source a new head, or a rebuilt head

Then if I need to split tractor to install the replacement engine block, then yes surgery will occur

I would entertain a company that can rebuild the head, or you guys instructing me once I get the clean space with hard floor, away from elements

"D1301 engine repair kit $174/set
Including piston, ring, liner, pin bush, engine bearing set, thrust washer, valve, guide, seat and gasket kit"

This guy from china sent me this message

Maybe these are all the parts I need. But I am not ordering anything yet, just talking/thinking etc

local person to help me: Its impossible, a person accessible to me that would take on this task, would charge 200/hour

Because they would have to do the job right, be patient, order parts, suffer and not eat for many spans of hours, etc

You guys are better than any local person I have access to

 

[joesmith123]

Ok here's a video of it running for those who are saying figure out the cause

skip to 2:20 to hear it start

also pay attention: center cylinder back firing/spitting/

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

Respectfully, Please do your engine swap or rebuild and JB Weld your old block.

Post pics here and enjoy the build and some of us will too.

Arguing about buying new or rebuildimg is pointless.

Some here have bank, and can buy a new Caterpillar for 500 grand and pass it off. It's just a minor expense. Some here are counting pennies.

So, do the engine swap or rebuild and post your progress.

If it were me in your shoes, I'd donate the old K to the local college or high school and buy a new M62 TLB. If I had the money.

Or rebuild it as a hobby. If I had the money, and time, and frustration.

Find joy in everything. Life is too short.

 

[joesmith123]

As others have said, you have to figure out what knocked a hole in it and fix whatever that is. So far as fixing a hole in the block, my father bought a 8N (gas) tractor in the late 60’s with a busted block. Patched it with two part epoxy (similar to JB Weld). I remember as a teenager it started leaking so we cleaned it up and re-caulked with JB Weld. It was still running and not leaking when we sold it earlier this year. View attachment 110037
I’m the baby in the photo shortly after the original repair.
View attachment 110038
Same tractor with same patched block in 2023 towing a mower I still haven’t gotten around to fixing.

The motor may be trashed but the mere fact there’s a hole in the block doesn’t mean it’s trashed.

I tell you the truth, when it happened, my whole world stopped, and many of plans were diverted, I took a timeout and had to absorb what it means

But comments like this and others, are honestly reviving my mood, and I'm thinking it could work...

 

[joesmith123]

Honestly, I would leave the block in and pull the head and pan. Check the crank for scoring. if the crank is just dinged, file the burr off, grab a new rod, pull the head and just replace the piston and all the rod/crank bearings. Then, get the piece of metal that cracked off, stitch it back on, goop the rest of the crack with silicon and let her eat.

yes I am listening, I will keep rereading until I can imagine the entire process

OK I'm gonna pull everything off the top, then get everything off the bottom. Ok, I'm thinking have it raised up to make room down there

That way, I can do these other tasks that you are instructing

I hope that bucket doesn't have to come off, long as I lift the machine high enough to work under it comfortably, then maybe I can do those tasks

 

[joesmith123]

I think any older Kubota is worth rebuilding if the time, frustration and expense of rebuilding it makes you happy and makes you money in the long run.

Otherwise, buy a new machine if you don't want the hassle and can afford it. It will be easier to use. As for the metal grade used in new equipment, that may be true because they overbuilt equipment sometimes. Sometimes not.

Back in the 1980's I worked a few years in a warehouse while going to college. We had old american made forklifts. The company bought some new Japanese forklifts and everybody loved them. They were faster, lifted faster, steered faster. BUT..... they didn't last. The steel was thinner, the hydralics blew out more often. They went away after a couple years. The american slow monster forklifts kept on going.

Ya gotta make a choice.

from what I am understanding:

New machines are faster and easier to use, but they break more and dont last as long

My machine is gonna be hard to get going, but it will last once its going...

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Pull both motors and get them on the bench.
Get a full rebuild kit.
Take all the good parts and rebuild one good motor.
You'll be into it for far less than any other option.
Follow the WSM completely on the rebuild!

 

[BAP]

Pull both motors and get them on the bench.
Get a full rebuild kit.
Take all the good parts and rebuild one good motor.
You'll be into it for far less than any other option.
Follow the WSM completely on the rebuild!

Follow North Idaho Wolfman’s advice and you will have a good reliable engine that should last you a long time. If you like your tractor and it does what you want it to do for you, then don’t listen to all the naysayers. Sometimes, you need to ignore the cost of repairs versus the end value of the machine if sold. Machines are worth more to the individual for their use than the value of selling them on the market.

 

[fried1765]

From my understanding, in this quote you are saying:

"history tells us that the prices of functional backhoes will rise"

But you are also telling me to part it out and purchase a whole different machine

Dont these two statements conflict?

Meaning, why would I "part this out" and get nothing for it, and then spend 20K on a functional backhoe that will need another 5K in maintenance?

You are correct.
I do see that my my statements conflict.
You are actually keeping yourself stuck in a long term (circular- wishful thinking) spot!

 

[D2Cat]

You are correct.
I do see that my my statements conflict.
You are actually keeping yourself stuck in a long term (circular- wishful thinking) spot!

The part of the "sell and buy new" equation you're missing is all the used parts you will need to purchase will be impacted by the same economy, cost more!!!!

 

[fried1765]

The part of the "sell and buy new" equation you're missing is all the used parts you will need to purchase will be impacted by the same economy, cost more!!!!

Not ME.......the OP has this delima!

 

[GreensvilleJay]

re: maybe source a new head, or a rebuilt head

Not clear as to why head is needed ? From the original picture, the con rod/cap broke,so a bottom end repair....head 'should' be fine ????

As for 'parts', you might get lucky and find another parts tractor,maybe in local scrap yard ??
A lot depends on what part of the world you're in...

This will be an interesting 'adventure' !!

 

[D2Cat]

Not ME.......the OP has this delima!

Sorry about that. I intended it to be to the OP.

 

[Russell King]

From above
“I hope that bucket doesn't have to come off, long as I lift the machine high enough to work under it comfortably, then maybe I can do those tasks”

I would never try to do what you need to accomplish with the loader on the machine.

I believe that you should decide what your plan is.

Are you going to replace the block on the existing tractor, or try to repair the leakage on the running tractor and move lo and back hoe to that tractor, or try to patch the hole in the block.

I think all three options will require the removal of the loader and it is not safe to work underneath the weight of the loader that can fall down and crush you.

The engine block is used as the frame of the tractor and to remove the block you will have to remove the front axle and then the block from the rear part of the tractor.

The cheapest is to just move to the running tractor. The best is to get both engines out and rebuild the engine. I would not attempt to plu the hole since I would worry about continued stress and damage to the block, but the loader subframe might support it enough that it would last longer than you need.

please post back with your definitive path forward and you will get lots of information. Definitely get the work shop manual and take videos and pictures as you go. This could be a long journey but there is always an end.

 

[fried1765]

W

Factory rebuild cost: probably 6-8 thousand. The cost of shipping anything is doubled

Split the tractor: Yes, from what i understand, Put stuff on blocks, while have other heavy stuff on wheels, and then they separate

At this moment, I dont have any hard ground to have stuff roll. I'll level some land with the smaller tractor, and do a dry pour concrete job

That would give me that area to work on her in a less dirty environment

Just thinking about how many posts we may eventually have on this thread.
Possibly like... "pallets in the field".... over on TBN?

 

[joesmith123]

Pull both motors and get them on the bench.
Get a full rebuild kit.
Take all the good parts and rebuild one good motor.
You'll be into it for far less than any other option.
Follow the WSM completely on the rebuild!

This is definitely the best option and the best cost, but the machine will be down for a long time

 

[joesmith123]

Sometimes, you need to ignore the cost of repairs versus the end value of the machine if sold. Machines are worth more to the individual for their use than the value of selling them on the market.

Right? One of the most accurate statements regarding these old machines

 

[joesmith123]

You are actually keeping yourself stuck in a long term (circular- wishful thinking) spot!

Ok now I gotta here this explanation. How am I keeping myself stuck in a "long term circular wishful thinking spot"?