Engine Oil

[SidecarFlip]

Thanks for all the input. Amazon's price for a gallon is $44 including freight. However, I will be buying my oil from Walmart. I will probably buy Rotella T6 15W40 synthetic oil.

T6 is 5-40 synthetic, not 15-40. What I use, buy it in 55 gallon drums from my jobber.

One thing I do that most people don't do or aren't aware of is, I send a sample to Blackstone Labs every change and have them do s spectroscopic analysis. That way I can track whats going on inside my engines as well as depletion of additive packages. I do that with every engine I have except the lawnmower and tiller engines. Good insurance against impending issues.

 

[motorhead]

I'd use the 5/40 Rotella. I have it in my B3200 with the V1505 engine. Turns over well on cold starts.

 

[Shadetree03]

Throw a vote on the pile for T6 5w40 here in Colorado. That and a Kubota filter from the dealer and I'm good to go.... if I was warmer or ran my little L2501 longer and harder I might opt for the 15w40, but when I catch the 2.5 gal jugs on sale, I have some left for the motorcycles

 

[SidecarFlip]

I had an issue with the M9 early in it's life... I started out with 15-40 Rotella and during the first winter, the engine would start but not develop enough oil pressure so it would shut down. I switched right away to T6 (5-40) and it started and ran fine. Been using it since but,
found out there was a small manufacturing burr in the spool valve (shuttle valve)in the front of the engine, that spool regulates oil pressure. Had it replaced under warranty, actually, the entire front cover as the valve bore is part of that cover. No other issues though.

I use T6 in everything, my diesel farm truck included.Blackstone tells me my TBN numbers are good enough to extend the changes but I don't. Oil is not expensive to replace.

I use WIX or Fleetguard filters instead of Kubota filters.

 

[motorhead]

Throw a vote on the pile for T6 5w40 here in Colorado. That and a Kubota filter from the dealer and I'm good to go.... if I was warmer or ran my little L2501 longer and harder I might opt for the 15w40, but when I catch the 2.5 gal jugs on sale, I have some left for the motorcycles

The top number, 40 is going to be the same in 15/40 as is 5/40.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I have some left for the motorcycles

Warning: Do not use diesel oil in a gas motor, it can damage the rings!

EDIT: I've been told I was wrong enough times it's got to be 100% true!
So just disregard what i said!

 

[RCW]

Warning: Do not use diesel oil in a gas motor, it can damage the rings!

I think my Harley called for diesel-rated oil, if my memory is right. First time I'd seen it. Sold it while back now, so a little sketchy.

Don't recall the other tech specs, as I just used HD-branded 20w-50 oil/filters.

 

[motorhead]

Warning: Do not use diesel oil in a gas motor, it can damage the rings!

Never heard that. I have used diesel rated oil in any gasoline engine without a catalytic convertor and NEVER had any issues. Used it for years in Air Cooled VW's, Porsche's, all my Onan generators because it has extra additives to help flat tappet cams.
Just a question, Where did you find that info?

Some reasons to not use it in a Motorcycle because they have wet clutches. Might cause the clutch to slip. That I have read about. Four stroke Motorcycle oil will specifically say it is for use in bikes with wet clutches.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Might only have issues with some older or HP motors.
It caused the rings, which I think were moly, in one of my motors to glaze and lose their set and leaked.
Two different ring manufacturers confirmed that it was possible, never did get to the bottom of it as I sold the motor for way more than I really though it was worth.

If I'm wrong I sure would like to know it, pain in the backside to have 2 different oils hanging around!

 

[dlundblad]

Warning: Do not use diesel oil in a gas motor, it can damage the rings!

I do my best to stay out of oil related threads now, but this is wrong information.

Some diesel oils, Delvac and Delo to name a few, are gas rated. Other "gas oils" actually have diesel ratings on them as well.

 

[dlundblad]

Might only have issues with some older or HP motors.
It caused the rings, which I think were moly, in one of my motors to glaze and lose their set and leaked.
Two different ring manufacturers confirmed that it was possible, never did get to the bottom of it as I sold the motor for way more than I really though it was worth.

If I'm wrong I sure would like to know it, pain in the backside to have 2 different oils hanging around!

I'd prefer to run a "diesel oil" in an older engine. Higher zinc levels as well as being a more stout oil.

 

[Shadetree03]

Lots of different opinions which is what keeps the oil threads going Shell added the JASO MA2 rating specs to cover the T6 use on wet clutches as well as suitable for engines with CAT converters. Lots of Hondas and now CanAms running Rotella T6....I do like that I am down to two main oils to stock for now

 

[Fido Farms]

As we all now most engine wear is at start up. So why not run a 5/40. People try the old when it***8217;s hot out it***8217;s to light. Well at engine operating temp the oil is just as hot at 0c as it is at 20c so you might as well cut the cold start wear down to a minimun and embrace the technology.

 

[Gillie Dog]

Lots of Hondas and now CanAms running Rotella T6....I do like that I am down to two main oils to stock for now

Meets specifications for BMW boxer engine motorcycles also (last few years they now have wet clutches also). I run it and know a guy who runs it and is at over 100K miles on it with that bike. Right price from Wally World also.

GD

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I do my best to stay out of oil related threads now, but this is wrong information.

Some diesel oils, Delvac and Delo to name a few, are gas rated. Other "gas oils" actually have diesel ratings on them as well.

I have already said that my information might be dated or flawed!
But No problem, I went back and edited my post to note that I was wrong and you all told me so!

 

[motorhead]

Might only have issues with some older or HP motors.
It caused the rings, which I think were moly, in one of my motors to glaze and lose their set and leaked.
Two different ring manufacturers confirmed that it was possible, never did get to the bottom of it as I sold the motor for way more than I really though it was worth.

If I'm wrong I sure would like to know it, pain in the backside to have 2 different oils hanging around!

I think we all know that in the world of "Murphy's Law" anything could be possible. I do not discount your personal results. I totally watch out for "Murphy"!
Could you be relating to the FULL Synthetic oil? I have read that unless the engine is already broken in that you should use conventional or break-in oil for the prescribed break-in duration, then you can switch to full synthetic.
Of course, I think there are exceptions to THAT rule as some NEW cars come from the factory with full synthetic as factory fill. Go figure!!!

 

[SidecarFlip]

When it comes to oil threads, everybody has 2 things, an opinion and a ****hole. Some opinions are similar to ****holes. They stink....

 

[85Hokie]

"I have read that unless the engine is already broken in that you should use conventional or break-in oil for the prescribed break-in duration, then you can switch to full synthetic."

this too is an old wives tale....period. There is no factual proof of this statement.

As you mentioned - most "expensive" cars come with synthetic in them from the get go.

Synthetics still allow wear, it is not bullet proof - it DOES not cause leaks in seals or joints......all this crap is something someone made up and the rest repeated! Now ...IF you have a worn seal - or a potential leak somewhere, a synthetic oil will show you the leak faster than conventional oil - why ??? The molecular size is smaller.......

Anyone that argues that synthetics are over rated .....well just hang around, much like the incandescent light bulb - it too was a bright idea for 100 years, but I'll go with technology and use the LED's and .....I Stopped using conventional oil....O about 25 years ago.


But there is always an opinion ....and we know that opinions are like _ _ _ holes, everyone has one! But I like to stick the facts, just the facts!

And FACTs TRUMP Opinions......hell, just ask whats his face......Ol' Donald he'll tell you his opinion, rather than the facts!

 

[Big Gee Tn]

Just a quick question;with warranties the way they are now ,does anyone see a conflict if you had a claim and you told them that 5w40 was in the crankcase.The op manual with my 2501 list sae30,10w30,and 15w40 for it.The info is clearly outdated because it instructs to use CI rated oil which is a very old rating (up to CK now).I plan to use rotella t5 10w30 in mine at oil change ,I use my tractor as a wheelbarrow a lot and just like the quicker flow better in winter. For oil related questions I highly recommend-Bob is the oil guy forum ,volumes of oil related information on there.

 

[Fido Farms]

Kubota recommends the oil but only specifies that it meets the minimun spec CJ for example for warranty. I don***8217;t know of or heard of an engine failure due to an oil issue. If you had an engine issue following the minimun oil change routine I would say it was a Kubota/any manufacturer isssue. Pretty sure they ain***8217;t goona check your oil and see if u were using shell or amsoil. Otherwise warranty would be he says/Kubota says and they have more lawyers. Pretty much comes down to ur due diligence. I***8217;m pretty sure as far as warranty goes in general nobody does what the book says for servicing. I don***8217;t mean the easy cheap stuff like oil changes. I mean the set the valves, replace this or that at 500hrs. At the dealer.. technically if you don***8217;t follow the manual I***8217;m sure warranty can be null and void in the fine print.. Treat it like u own it and normally it will last a long time.