Best implement to level soft ground

[fendley]

I live in southeast Georgia, about midway between Brunswick GA and Jacksonville FL. I have 5 acres that are wooded (pines, oaks) and the ground is borderline wetlands, and has many roots. Many times, the tractor operation leaves ruts 8-10 inches deep, and when you dig a hole you typically hit ground water 4-5 feet down.

What implement would be best to try and level the ground? My property was previously planted with pines that were to be harvested for the paper mill, so I have furrows every 3 feet, with the pines planted on the peaks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Spike Harrow and a land plane are my two leveling choices.

If the ground has a lot of vegetation, and because of the roots, it might take a disk to break it up enough to level it out.

 

[D2Cat]

Fendley, if this is the case, "Many times, the tractor operation leaves ruts 8-10 inches deep..." you need a machine with grouser pads!

 

[bxray]

You may want to start with a box blade for the big stuff.
Then the harrow and/or land plane.

 

[Missouribound]

When you said "tractor operation" what did you mean? Does driving over the land create ruts? If so a tractor probably won't be able to do too much if using it requires repairing the ground you use it on. What is your end goal here?
Perhaps consider some fill to give you a better base.

 

[fendley]

Not all areas are soft enough to rut up. My plan is to remove some trees and level the area as best I can, and the bring in the fill.

Appreciate the bulldozer suggestion, but I have a tractor but no dozer. Perhaps renting one for a couple of days makes sense. It's only about 1.5 acres.

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[skeets]

Just a question ,,if its that soft in places is there any way you might be able to drain or semi drain the land? Or maybe redirect the water?

 

[fendley]

That is a good question. About 15% of my property is considered wetlands. I'm talking about other areas outside that, but as you can imagine - there is no sharp boundary where the ground magically dries up. And even the areas that are outside the wetlands you can hit water simply digging down 5 feet or so.

I have seen where construction areas will have a series of well points surrounding the working area, and they have a pump running 24 hrs/day to keep the ground dry until construction is complete. Additionally, those of us with pools know that you cannot drain your concrete pool - the ground water will push the concrete shape out of the ground.

Maybe I will remove the trees, bring in the fill without first trying to level the ground, compact everything and then work on leveling the area where the garage will be erected.

 

[hiho silver]

That is a good question. About 15% of my property is considered wetlands. I'm talking about other areas outside that, but as you can imagine - there is no sharp boundary where the ground magically dries up. And even the areas that are outside the wetlands you can hit water simply digging down 5 feet or so.

I have seen where construction areas will have a series of well points surrounding the working area, and they have a pump running 24 hrs/day to keep the ground dry until construction is complete. Additionally, those of us with pools know that you cannot drain your concrete pool - the ground water will push the concrete shape out of the ground.

Maybe I will remove the trees, bring in the fill without first trying to level the ground, compact everything and then work on leveling the area where the garage will be erected.

Just a word of caution-if your ground is officially considered to be wetlands by the NRCS you really want to have a serious chat with them about legalities before trying to drain or fill.

 

[fendley]

You are correct, and I have those areas flagged in order to avoid encroachment.

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