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I believe it should only have 1" of free play. I would tighten up the linkage but you are probably due to haveing a new clutch installed. That is why you don't loan your equipment out. :)

Wherever you place them, make sure they do not stick out into the bucket area and are set back. Personally I would want two near the outside edges and a center hook. I put a center hook on that stuck out past the top bucket lip. Went to unload a large crate (pto generator) and the hook pierced...

Mine had 1" to much free play and would grind. I took the free play out (except 1") and the grinding stopped. Hope yours is as easy to fix as mine was.

As in engineer with 30+ years experience...you are exactly correct.

No offence but when I am laying down some large change on anything I buy I get educated on it and what it is worth. Buy the time I pull the trigger I know what I paid and if it was a good bargain. I will also walk away if I don't feel it is a good price. I would not rely or trust anybody elses...

I used to move snow for a living when I was in construction. Often times a 16 hour+ event running a loader, road grader, or pickup plow. I still cringe every time it snows and don't believe I will be ever happy to see the white stuff.

Could it be a safety switch not making contact? The one I have the biggest issue with the neutral lever.

A box blade is the easiest to use and one doesn't have to be overly experienced to get good results. A back blade can do a better job at shaping and pulling gravel back from the edges but requires a little more experience to get excellent results. Both work...I prefer a back blade.

You sir are a master fabricator...very nice.

I have never given more than $1 for a stripper...multiple times of $1 but $1 none the less. She really must be something for $500. :D

#1 Diesel is essentially kerosene.

It is not Chicago electric but is made in China...along with almost every other generator and thing made. Putting an American label on it doesn't change that fact.

I have a straight tranny so not sure but I have read numerous posts about hydrostatic trannys whining. Most put in a synthetic fluid when performing maintenance to eliminate or reduce the noise. Since yours is new...I would think it has synthetic or partial synthetic already. Skid steers whine...

I would think if it was an injector it would run rough 100% of the time. If it were mine, I would get it to a diesel mechanic ASAP before some major event took place. Hopefully it is nothing major but I wouldn't take any chances.

I bought a 15kw one from Rural King for $1100 that runs off the pto. Harbor Freight sells the same one for around $1500. Rural King stopped selling the 15kw I believe but do have larger pto powered units. Seems to work real well and has excellent ratings on HF.

No damage whatsoever. Furthermore, when checking retract all cylinders and I drop the 3ph. You could be gallons short of fluid without oing any damage...most that would happen is it wouldn't move or loader wouldn't go all the way up.

A PTO generator requires 2 hp (pto) for every 1000kw of generating capacity. Although with not enough hp you will just lose capacity and can still be used.

I assume the cruise control is different from the throttle lever located on the instrument panel?

My Kubota Owners Manual states using an engine oil that meets: API Service Classification CD, CE, or CF For temps above 25 C (77 F): SAE 30W, SAE 10W-30 or 10W - 40 Temps 0 to 25 C (32 F to 77F): SAE 20W, SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40 Temps Below 0C: SAE 10W, SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40.

Any premium oil designed for diesel engines or a synthetic designed for diesels in my opinion. I believe in changing the oil according to manufacturers recommendations is probably more important than oil brand.