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I'd switch them to normal. Their directionality is to make them self-cleaning; running backwards will just pack mud into the cleats and gives almost no tread for grip. A bit like the tread on vehicle "rain tires" with the tread spread out forward, to let the water flow out and leave the rubber...

Did you disconnect the glow-plug jumpers and check each one individually? The B7200 had 1 bad glow plug and after replacing it it started like a new tractor. It also had the glow-indicator start working "normally." Pull the battery and take somewhere that will check its' cranking amps. Clean...

The bearing is sealed, the carrier is what get the lube. Now see that you have a front-loader on it, the cover could be hidden behind the F-L arm, but it is a dual stage clutch and needs internal adjustment in addition to the adjustment at the pedal.

Throw-out bearings aren't that terribly fragile, but if freeplay has never been adjusted and greasing never been performed all bets are off. Think of all those manual transmissions sitting in rush hour traffic, stop-n-go, standing on the clutch for hours a day... Been using an L305 with...

On the upper frame, right hand side, slightly behind and below the motion-arm.

OK, now with all the trying your battery is probably low. Clean all 4 end of the 2 battery cables and make sure all 4 ends are bright and tight and have spotless connections. Buy a battery terminal brush if you don't have one. If you see any bulge in the sheath near the battery end there could...

Yes, maybe at the expense of an uglier problem. I'd try greasing something first. Drop the clutch inspection plate (most models right side of clutch housing) and lube the throw-out bearing carrier. Inspect that there is nothing wonky with the clutch release fingers. Is the noise the same under...

Make sure the decompress lever is returning fully from its' spring tension. See if the fuel filter bowl has water or other poop in it. Loosen the nut on a fuel line at an injector about 1/2-3/4 turn and see if fuel is pumping out while starting.

Clearly a pressure switch and that is the GST valve body it is screwed into. Probably should fix it up. You know that is broken, if it doesn't cure the problem totally; it isn't wasted money.

Eyup, keeps up like this and we might get some weather.

Perhaps this is the application for an articulating top-link. It looks like the articulating link rotates the tiller outward as it raises. Maybe someone that uses one will come along and say.

You don't say how far apart this is other than split and the bearing carrier removed. Do you have the pressure plate removed and the clutch disc out? This failure: "New clutch, pedal won't move far, clutch won't disengage"; sounds unfortunately too familiar to me. Had a clutch replaced (because...

5 inches of free-play is too much. Like mentioned it should be 1 to 1-1/2 inch. If it is like my 7200 turn the adjuster shackle longer, this should eliminate the free-play. That it came out so far from correct makes me wonder, you have the clutch rod and the return spring in the right holes huh...

Get under there and push the pedal, see if the rod pushes or pulls. Normally as a clutch wears, the more clearance you need to put back into the linkage; the fingers on the pressure plate move toward the throw-out bearing as the disc wears, so you need to push them less. Normal clutch free-play...

Parts page shows it inside the power-steering oil tank. Appears you remove the cap with the dipstick and loose the nut and lift the cartridge out.

If it happened suddenly I wonder if a governor counter-spring has broken?

With some of the new plastics, there's pretty much nothing that will bond/weld them. Ran into this problem when I could have gotten a Coleman canoe for cheap; it had a gouge through it from dragging on a rock. The repair kit cost $45 and would patch an 8 inch crack, the crack was 12 inches so I...

Maybe try West Kentucky Tractor Parts. http://wkytpstore.com/

That really depends on the crankshaft position when you observed the gap. Adjusting valves is done when the piston associated with the valves you are adjusting is at the top dead center of its' stroke. Marked on the flywheel and observed through an inspection port in the bell housing. When...

Follow the heavy power lead to the glow plugs back to the first "black box" it connects to. That would be the relay, pull off one of the smaller wires and if the glow plugs de-energize then the controller is bad, if they stay on then the relay is stuck "on."