Zero turn to B series

JasonW

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Jan 29, 2015
108
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Mobile, AL
Well it seems everyone has went the opposite of what I inquired about.
I don’t need recommendations on different brands of zero turns, as I already have a zero turn mower.
A little more detail on needing something to move my boat. I repurposed a lean-to to the side of my shop but about 15 foot in front is a large pecan tree that I’m not cutting down. So I’m using my 4wheeler to back it out from under the lean-to and forward around it to in front of the pecan tree where I can hook it to my truck. Putting the boat in the opposite way would not work to be able to turn it around. Not sure on the total weight of the boat but just the outboard is heavier than the 4wheeler.
Regarding using a zero turn near full speed, the parts on my lawn that are smooth enough, it doesn’t give a quality cut even with new/sharp blades. I would guess I mow at 4-5 mph but will check next time I cut.
 

Lencho

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B7100hst
Jan 21, 2017
336
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Is Dad close enough you can just use the L to move the boat? If not - I agree you should swap the Z for a B. Or get both?
 

mcmxi

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Well it seems everyone has went the opposite of what I inquired about.
I don’t need recommendations on different brands of zero turns, as I already have a zero turn mower.
A little more detail on needing something to move my boat. I repurposed a lean-to to the side of my shop but about 15 foot in front is a large pecan tree that I’m not cutting down. So I’m using my 4wheeler to back it out from under the lean-to and forward around it to in front of the pecan tree where I can hook it to my truck. Putting the boat in the opposite way would not work to be able to turn it around. Not sure on the total weight of the boat but just the outboard is heavier than the 4wheeler.
Regarding using a zero turn near full speed, the parts on my lawn that are smooth enough, it doesn’t give a quality cut even with new/sharp blades. I would guess I mow at 4-5 mph but will check next time I cut.
Maybe in a perfect world you'd keep the zero turn and add a B. As it stands, if you can only have one it seems that a B with MMM is the answer, or at least one possible answer. It'll do a good job of moving the boat and do a decent job of cutting your lawn. I used to cut a few acres with a BX25D and a 54" MMM and it was brutal due to the bumps and holes but it did a good job of cutting. It also did a good job of blowing snow, digging a trench, moving dirt etc.
 
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Vigo

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B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
73
21
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San Antonio Texas
This isn't even tractor related, but consider a front hitch for your truck if you want to get the boat into trickier spots without bringing out the tractor. I know, once you have the tractor you'll be looking for any vague excuse to use it! But seriously, you can do much fancier maneuvering with a front mounted hitch than a rear mounted hitch. I move trailers with my electric golf cart from the front, and only ever hook to the back of it if i need to pull down on the rear for traction.
 

BAP

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2012 Kubota 2920, 60MMM, FEL, BH65 48" Bush Hog, 60"Backblade, B2782B Snowblower
Dec 31, 2012
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New Hampshire
Well it seems everyone has went the opposite of what I inquired about.
I don’t need recommendations on different brands of zero turns, as I already have a zero turn mower.
A little more detail on needing something to move my boat. I repurposed a lean-to to the side of my shop but about 15 foot in front is a large pecan tree that I’m not cutting down. So I’m using my 4wheeler to back it out from under the lean-to and forward around it to in front of the pecan tree where I can hook it to my truck. Putting the boat in the opposite way would not work to be able to turn it around. Not sure on the total weight of the boat but just the outboard is heavier than the 4wheeler.
Regarding using a zero turn near full speed, the parts on my lawn that are smooth enough, it doesn’t give a quality cut even with new/sharp blades. I would guess I mow at 4-5 mph but will check next time I cut.
The problem is that everyone wants to convince you that you are making the wrong decision because it is not the decision that they would make. It’s like any other tractor size question asked on here, you will get answers that you need to buy a $60,000 tractor when you only need a $15,000 tractor, because that is what they have. People tend to try to force you to change your wants to match theirs , not answer your question. I mow with my B2920 and 60” deck. I have absolutely no problems mowing around the many obstacles in the lawn. Speed is good, ride is good, cut is good. I can use the tractor for other stuff versus having a $15-20k boat anchor sitting there 350 days of the year. Good luck on your decision, just decide what works best for your needs.
 
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JasonW

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Jan 29, 2015
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Mobile, AL
The problem is that everyone wants to convince you that you are making the wrong decision because it is not the decision that they would make. It’s like any other tractor size question asked on here, you will get answers that you need to buy a $60,000 tractor when you only need a $15,000 tractor, because that is what they have. People tend to try to force you to change your wants to match theirs , not answer your question. I mow with my B2920 and 60” deck. I have absolutely no problems mowing around the many obstacles in the lawn. Speed is good, ride is good, cut is good. I can use the tractor for other stuff versus having a $15-20k boat anchor sitting there 350 days of the year. Good luck on your decision, just decide what works best for your needs.
I’ve been around forums enough most just regurgitate what they have read before. I’ve found enough information before I even asked this question to see if I was missing anything or if there was something new.
I asked about a B series that will run around 6k-8k total and the value of my zero turn is about 4k, so as I said before I could swap for a few thousand dollars. Yet people are recommending full commercial zero turns to cut grass at 15mph.
For reference also I used to cut 4 acres with a L3650 gear drive and a 60” RFM for over a decade.
 
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fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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Eastham, Ma
Sold my old B and ended up with a zt and never looked back. Couldn't believe I went without one that long! I'm actually looking to get a deck for my BX for back up but not necessarily looking forward to the ride. Love my Gravely Pro! Same with the old B7510 but just not as nimble!
You are a young buck?
I have had a Gravely Pro 12 (with steering brake) for 35 years, and it is a great machine, but way too hard on this now 81 year old body.
My 55 year old son wants me to keep it,....... so it will be his!
I am currently using a SCAG Liberty Z for mowing, but it beats me to death on my bumpy yard.
Just bought an after market seat suspension mod for the Z , but have not installed it yet.
 
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Dieseldonato

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B7510 hydro, yanmar ym146, cub cadet 1450, 582,782
Mar 15, 2022
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I’ve been around forums enough most just regurgitate what they have read before. I’ve found enough information before I even asked this question to see if I was missing anything or if there was something new.
I asked about a B series that will run around 6k-8k total and the value of my zero turn is about 4k, so as I said before I could swap for a few thousand dollars. Yet people are recommending full commercial zero turns to cut grass at 15mph.
For reference also I used to cut 4 acres with a L3650 gear drive and a 60” RFM for over a decade.
Then why even bother asking anyone's opinion? You had made your mind up before asking. Go buy a B series they are fantastic tractors and will do everything you need it to, they mow grass and do other stuff. If your serious about mowing grass (your not) you'll keep the zero turn.
 

BAP

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Dec 31, 2012
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Then why even bother asking anyone's opinion? You had made your mind up before asking. Go buy a B series they are fantastic tractors and will do everything you need it to, they mow grass and do other stuff. If your serious about mowing grass (your not) you'll keep the zero turn.
Kind of harsh answer. You don’t need a zero turn to be serious about mowing grass. A good used ride lawn mower will do the same thing for $300. It’s just a mentality thing nowadays to spend $20,000 on a mower, to spend 1 hour per week 12-20 times a year. Both work, both can do a great job, one will make your pocketbook much lighter. In the end, which is the correct choice? The one that makes the person using it happy, not the other person on the internet.
 

GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S
Apr 2, 2019
4,657
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Greensville,Ontario,Canada
Hmm, late to the post but.....
I'd trade the ZT in for a tractor

yes, most ZTs are faster to cut grass but you NEED a 'mule' to tow the boat. Don't think the boat is 4000+ pounds, probably closer to 2500-3000 (max). As reference, SA 5 bolt trailers use 3500# axles. I hauled lots of trailers with a ball on the front of my BX23S,so a 'B' will easily do it.

Grass cutting will take longer,nature of the beast....
Be SURE to get some form of front bumper /brush guard ! It's funny how trees will run out in front of you....
 

dirtydeed

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Dec 8, 2017
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as others posted above, get the loader with the tractor. then pick up one of these... I had one for a long time and used it just like you intend. Moved my 4,500 lb boat/trailer anywhere I needed to with a BX tractor.

The best part is that with the boat/trailer in front of you, you can put it anywhere you want with ease.

bucket hitch.JPG
 
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GreensvilleJay

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BX23-S
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I agree,IF you can afford it, add the SSQA loader system and small bucket, then you'll also need the pallet forks. If you're cutting 2+ acres of grass ,you'l find LOTS of uses for bucket and forks.
No matter how old we get, we ain't getting younger !
 

Vigo

Member

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B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
73
21
8
San Antonio Texas
Don't do what the previous owner of my b6100 did and weld (not even drill a hole and just bolt/nut) a hitch ball to the top of the loader bucket! Unless you leave all your trailer tongues 2ft off the ground at minimum it makes curling the bucket under the trailer tongue to hook it a bit of a pain. I like the clamp-on thing (but not necessarily what they sell for) because you can pick where you want it side to side. Most likely that aluminum boat has very little tongue weight and it would even be reasonably safe to put it all the way to one side of the bucket. That may come in handy depending on the specifics of where you're trying to put it, etc.


image_16621.jpg

$11 build-a-hitch
If you decide to either add a hitch to the front of your tractor, or permanently mount something to your bucket, i highly recommend the ATV hitch adapter from Harbor Freight. It is seriously the best-priced hitch-related item there is at $11. Considering even the cheapest tow ball costs $7-8 and some places will charge you $5+ for a hitch pin and the dinky sheetmetal things they sell to put a towball on a riding mower are way more than this, this heavy piece of metal with a serious metal hoop on it for $11 is a fantastic deal for adding a receiver to basically anything, as long as you've got a welder that will touch it (anything on 120v is.. iffy). You can just bolt it, but i wouldn't if you're moving anything of real weight because the momentum/inertia of the towed object will make this thing like 'pushing a rope' and tend to skew it off to the side unless something else is securing it. I believe the thick bottom plate is over 3/8" thick. Technically if you want to take a cutoff wheel to it you could cut the 2" box part off the bottom plate and a 120v welder would weld that no problem.
 

rc51stierhoff

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Equipment
B2650, MX6000
Sep 13, 2021
549
385
63
Ohio
I'm also considering replacing my current zero turn and have thought about a B or BX too. My mowing conditions are much like the OP's. He doesn't mention any slopes.
I have a few slopes to mow. Anyone have with experience on both machines that can compare their stability mowing side slopes.
My Z has a very low center of gravity and feels stable. I have no experience with small tractors.
I had a BX, then sold and got a B (now I have a B + MX). I have a very steep property. My neighbor rolled his zt. I flipped a mid engine forest gump style toro(it a story for another day) anyway it’s steep. Both the B and BX are great for mowing. The BX was more stable in my opinion I think due to a little lower center of gravity…but not by much. If you have to worry about slopes plan your approach and exit better than risking sidehilling IMO. I think the main difference between the two is the ground clearance…however I think the B can do a little more with the loader. I have filler tires and mow with a ballast box (both BX and b) If only for mowing I think the BX would be better but if you want just a little more tractor then it’s the B. I went to the B for just that reason but have since added an MX as the B was not enough tractor for my uses. Looking back I should have stayed with the BX and gotten an Mx. I was under a delusion that if I had a little more tractor then I would need just one. Both are great. The ground clearance is helpful for me in the woods and where I have some stream crossings. B is a lot more comfortable for me. I find myself using the B a lot more as it lifts more, so it is more useful to me that way but the BX was just fine for woods work and firewood too. I need a mmm at my home for tight quarters…if I am being honest though my MX with brush cutter mows nicer than both the B and BX…way more forgiving to the terrain over the 7x10’ BH than a small mmm. Anyway if I could get by with a rear mower at the house then I would have a bigger tractor and maybe just the MX (I use it at second property/forest/orchard/hobby farm). I am not sure any of that helps.
 
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PaulL

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Equipment
B2601
Jul 17, 2017
1,273
487
83
NZ
My B2601 mows well. It also pulls the boat fine - a Malibu ski boat, probably around 4000 lbs on a tandem trailer. I pull it on the flat, but also put it in the ramp and pull it out. I use a trailer mover on the 3ph. Everyone says not to, but it works fine for me, and lets me lift one set of trailer tires off the ground so I don't scrub the grass or the driveway. I put the boat in the back corner of the garage with it too - sure, it'd be nice to have a loader mounted trailer hitch, but a tractor is so much more manoeuvrable than a car you're a mile ahead even with a 3ph towball.

I moved up from a BX, and the B mows quite a bit faster. Larger wheels make it more comfortable than a BX, and 3 speed gearbox gives it more top end. I mow some larger flat areas, and I can do them full speed, bumps around a bit but not so bad. The BX I could also do at full speed in the same areas, but full speed was about 30% slower......

I've never had a zero turn, so can't comment on the relativity. But I know I can only have one machine (no more storage space), and a zero turn won't pull my boat.

If your lawn is really rough, I've always figured you can put on a big rear finish mower, but mow slow. You can put on a much larger mower than it's spec'd for if you're going slow. You'll get the same number of acres per hour mowed, but you'll do fewer but slower passes. I think there's a YouTube from one of the big channels where he puts a big finish mower on a small tractor, and it works pretty well. My theory here is that a given amount of horsepower can mow a certain amount of grass per unit time. It can mow a really wide strip slowly, or a really narrow strip fast - but same total amount of grass. But a narrow strip fast beats you up, a wide strip slow is comfortable.....
 

notforhire

Member

Equipment
Kubota L47
Dec 5, 2019
67
18
8
Meadows of Dan VA.
I had a BX, then sold and got a B (now I have a B + MX). I have a very steep property. My neighbor rolled his zt. I flipped a mid engine forest gump style toro(it a story for another day) anyway it’s steep. Both the B and BX are great for mowing. The BX was more stable in my opinion I think due to a little lower center of gravity…but not by much. If you have to worry about slopes plan your approach and exit better than risking sidehilling IMO. I think the main difference between the two is the ground clearance…however I think the B can do a little more with the loader. I have filler tires and mow with a ballast box (both BX and b) If only for mowing I think the BX would be better but if you want just a little more tractor then it’s the B. I went to the B for just that reason but have since added an MX as the B was not enough tractor for my uses. Looking back I should have stayed with the BX and gotten an Mx. I was under a delusion that if I had a little more tractor then I would need just one. Both are great. The ground clearance is helpful for me in the woods and where I have some stream crossings. B is a lot more comfortable for me. I find myself using the B a lot more as it lifts more, so it is more useful to me that way but the BX was just fine for woods work and firewood too. I need a mmm at my home for tight quarters…if I am being honest though my MX with brush cutter mows nicer than both the B and BX…way more forgiving to the terrain over the 7x10’ BH than a small mmm. Anyway if I could get by with a rear mower at the house then I would have a bigger tractor and maybe just the MX (I use it at second property/forest/orchard/hobby farm). I am not sure any of that helps.
Yes, your comments are helpful.
Unlike the OP my trailer moving chores etc can be done with my L47.
Like the OP my yard is rough former pasture. I feel your pain OP.

I'm studying options right now.
I now mow with a 2004 61 inch Ferris 1000Z . It's an older pre suspension model which works great but rides like a stone.
I'm looking into a better suspension seat right now, but putting a $1,700 seat on a $3,000 18 yo machine just feels wrong. I'll keep looking for a cheaper alternative.
I could regrade the entire yard with my box blade and improve the ride that way. (I don't want to replant 2+ acres of grass if I can help it.)
I looked at a BX and a B at my dealer's lot yesterday. I think the larger tires of the B would go a long way in improving the ride. The BX tires are close in size to my Z turn. I have a friend with a BX. I think I'll test mow his before I make any judgement.
There are mostly long straight runs on my property so maneuverability isn't super important. Since the rough ride limits my ground speed, there is not much mowing time difference between the two styles.
I looked at a commercial style Ferris with full suspension, cost was about $12,000. A BX2380 @$14,850 while more money, seems a better value.
Either way it's a lot of money just to cut grass.:cry: