I am not convinced your diagnosis is correct.
I guess i don't see how relay 9 would have any impact on this. you could take it out and the mower would start fine. it could fail to operate and the mower would start even if the PTO were on and the brake were disengaged. to me it looks like all it does is disable relay 5 if you try to start with the PTO engaged or brake disengaged.CDMA.... I believe you have overlooked Item 9, “Starter Relay” ...and I had a similar situation I wrote about only yesterday. The “click” is heard... but the starter-mounted solenoid does not activate. The “click” being heard was my starter relay.
The Genuine Kubota replacement relay costs between $82 and $110 plus freight... but I solved it with a $2 part. Here’s a link to my solution (See Response #6):
My M4700 is a pretty simple tractor...or so I thought... Only one safety switch activated by the range-lever (the forward-Reverse-Low-High selection lever) on this DT (manual transmission.). The neutral start safety switch is kind of troublesome to get to... and that was my suspicion because...www.orangetractortalks.com
You know what..??.... I may have misread the schematic. I see there are Two relays labelled “starter relay” and I agree with you now that I’ve studied it more. It does indeed seem to be PTO-related in the start sequence.I guess i don't see how relay 9 would have any impact on this. you could take it out and the mower would start fine. it could fail to operate and the mower would start even if the PTO were on and the brake were disengaged. to me it looks like all it does is disable relay 5 if you try to start with the PTO engaged or brake disengaged.
thanks for the link to the alternate realys, I may just replace one or both for the heck of it.
If you want to rule out the diode for your piece of mind, wire one in parallel externally using alligator clips.thanks for the replies. Yes I have jumped the starter with a wrench and the mower strarts and runs fine. I've tested the solenoid it works fine when battery voltage applied directly to the coil. I also put a new solenoid in and still get click no crank. both solenoids test fine on a bench.
I then measured the voltage at the + solenoid coil terminal and get +12V during start attempt. I then measured DC current coming from the +12V solenoid coil terminal --- there I only get 0.5-0.8A, I would expect about 3A to fully engage that solenoid. thus I suspect resistance inline with the solenoid coil + wire.
Relay (5) is closing or the solenoid wouldn't click and the mower wouldn't run when starter jumped. Since relay (5) is closing I conclude the brake switch, motion lever switches, and PTO switch are all fine since they control realy (5).
That leaves the seat switch, diode, and key swtich. I tested the key switch and it works fine, and ohms fine. I have not yet ohmed the seat switch or diode, and those are the only 2 things left other than bad wires.
not sure if I'm missing anything else.