You are in the wrong forum. What's Cookin is in the Off Topics section.Also, its a passable salad dressing if push comes to shove.
If cost isn't a concern I don't know why someone would choose conventional oil over synthetic. How are those 50 to 60 hours accumulated? There's a big difference on engine wear and oil condition for a tractor that's run for 8 hours a day for a week compared to one that's run for 10 minutes every day for a year.My original post is merely asking for feedback on what others here prefer (T4/T5/T6) - it's not about the cost.
50 to 60 hours annually
Yeah Yeah Yeah. WE ALL know that. But if YOU have a NEW TRACTOR….with a Warranty….WHY would you try to “outsmart” the OEM and give ANY excuse for them to deny?Plot the actual viscosity curves for 10W30 and 5W40. You might find it revealing.
Grade 5W40 covers the extremes of all of Kubota's viscosity recommendations including "all-season" 10W30 in a single oil and does it better.
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Just more FUD and the graph speaks for itself. Rotella T6 0W40 is nearly identical to Rotella T6 10w30 and a perfectly fine akternative with a bit better viscosity at the extremes. Nobody is ever going to claim it voids a warranty..Yeah Yeah Yeah. WE ALL know that. But if YOU have a NEW TRACTOR….with a Warranty….WHY would you try to “outsmart” the OEM and give ANY excuse for them to deny?
GM had a series of autos in the mid-80‘s in which the Owners Manual specified 10W30 and when clever owners substituted what THEY thought was equal-to-or-superior…. they discovered the engine damage was Denied Warranty.
Just sayin’…. if it’s YOUR machine…. YOU get to choose…. but getting on a internet forum to accept some anonymous ”username” s advice as … equal-or-better ….is foolish when the OM directly specifies something else, IMO.
I'd just like to remark that "food grade mineral oil" does exist.Also, its a passable salad dressing if push comes to shove.