Wheel Studs vs Chains

[mikester]

I just got my Marrkey M6x20 wheel studs from Amazon, $50 for 100 studs.

Why did I go with studs instead of chains?
a. I have chains but I hate them. I use double ladders on my fronts only when it gets icy and I loose steering traction. They make a rough ride and tend to walk a little and I'm paranoid about damaging my steering linkage accidentally.
b. This winter has been unusually warm so far with little snow. When it did snow the ground was still unfrozen so I have a nice ice layer between the ground and the snow cover.
c. My R4's are 7 years old now and starting to get worn. No more sharp edges to bite into the snow/ice. Easy to slip in these conditions.
d. I wanted to try some low profile studs to gain a little extra traction on bare ice.

Why did I get these instead of the MS1911?
a. Price. On Amazon I got 100 for $50, the MS1911 are $140 for 100 pieces
b. I intend to leave these studs in permanently, I don't want large studs sticking out in the off season nor do I want a bunch of holes in my tires. Low profile studs should do less damage to my concrete floors and paving stones.

How many did I need?
1. I used 90 studs total, one in each lug

Are they hard to install?
1. No. I used my cordless drill and a little dish soap on the threads and they screwed in nicely. The screws wobble badly in the provided bit, so I had to hold the screws firmly to get them started and to feed in perpendicular to the tread.
2. The heads are supposed to be flush with the tire tread with only the carbide tip standing proud of the tire.
3. Getting the depth right was probably the trickiest part.

Why did I install them the way I did?
A. I only had 100 screws, the center line seemed to be the most sensible place. If I decide to add more studs I will get the MS1911 and screw them into the outer edges.
A. I only put them on the fronts because I am trying to improve my steering on ice.
A. I want to leave space on the tread for future tire grooving. I figured grooving my tires would work well until the edges got worn and I'd be back to square one.

It doesn't feel right to drive screws into my tires!

How well do they work?
A. I don't know yet! Supposed to get some snow this week, I will post an update later on what I think.

My installation photos below

 

[woodsy]

Looks good. Probably do the same at some point.
Could you post a link to those specific studs on Amazon.
Can't seem to find those particular ones

edit: never mind, found em.

 

[jimh406]

Be sure to post how much you like taking them out, and how well you like them once you use them.

I used chains on all 4 wheels this last week for the first time. I don't like putting them on, but they were worth the work. I have ladder chains as well.

 

[Deleted member 47704]

The LX2610 SU with the big tires chains are out of the question. Put spacers on and the tires stick out past the bucket, the big tires are 57" across.
So studs are probably the best option. I decided to wait and see, so far this thing doesn't even spin.

 

[jimh406]

Fwiw, I have the OEM spacers on my L2501. They are 1 inch from what I understand, and 1 inch was enough to clear the telescopic arms on the lower 3 pt hitch.

 

[mikester]

The studs I went with are:

Amazon.ca

unfortunately the price has gone up $10 now to $59.99

I've had a chance to use the studs in (A) 3-4" of medium pack snow with an ice layer at ground level.

Today I just cleared (B) 8" of fresh powder snow on top of the medium pack and ice. I did a hard scrape with the snowblower right down to the ice.

These low profile studs with only a single stud in each lug did surprisingly well for traction! Initially I didn't have a lot of confidence with a single row of low profile studs in deep snow.

How do I know they are working? I have no problem steering and my rear end is sliding on the ice around like I'm in 2WD.

Here's my comparison between these newly installed studs vs my 6 year old double ladder chains:

Driving only in deep snow (B) in the field
Chains 9/10, studs 8/10
* chains win for brute force traction, doubles my lug depth. Deep snow cushions the rid

Driving in (A) in the field
Chains 8/10, studs 8/10
* Studs win - smoother ride

Driving on paved road covered with ice and hard pack
Chains 5/10, studs 9/10
* Studs win - smooth quiet ride, surprising amount of traction on hills

Snow blowing (B) on gravel driveway
Chains 1/10, studs 10/10
* Studs win - smoother ride, better control, I don't really know the studs are there. Chains are a rough ride, they walk, are hard to put on, need adjustment, and I'm constantly paranoid they might take out my steering one day.

Snow blowing (B) backing up a steep incline on pavers
Chains 7/10, studs 8/10
* For some reason the studs just let me drive up the incline with little tire spin. I will have to wait until spring to compare the damage done to the concrete pavers by the studs compared to the chains.

Operating comfort
Chains 1/10, Studs 10/10
* Studs are the hands down winner. Quiet. Good traction. No worries.

Cost
Chains 1/10, Studs 9/10
* I can do a single row of studs front and back tires for $100. My front chains cost $300. I have no idea how long the studs will last though so the long term cost isn't clear. I can put my chains on a different tractor, I can't do that with these studs.

So far I'm sold on the studs. I think I will order another set of the shorter 6x18mm studs as they are only $39.

Amazon.ca

6x15mm studs are $35, I'm not sure which would be better for my R4's.

My plan is to stud my rears this year like I did the fronts.

I won't remove them in the spring. If the studs wear down too much by next winter I will add a second row of studs on the outer edge of each lug.

For me these studs seem to do what I need. If I was planning to do a lot of logging in mud and deep snow I would go with euro style chains with carbide V-bars.

I think the MS1911 studs would give better traction in the deeper snow.

I don't know how long the studs will last, only time will tell. For the short term my tire chains are going to stay hanging on the wall.

 

[woodsy]

Thanks for the detailed report.
Agree about chains although I did run chains full time
before I bought the Kubota.
Let the chains go down the road with
the old tractor when sold.
No pavement here and dirt floor shed so looking at the
MS1911 studs for front and back . Have AG tires so might get by
with a 100 pack.

 

[JimmyJazz]

I spent a couple of hours clearing snow today for the first time ever with my loader equipped B2601 . We had 10 inches of snow and I hardly slipped at all. I have turf tires with the rears filled with beet juice. It was my first time putting the loader float position to work. Quite a storm last night here in Western Pennsylvania. The Kubota preformed heroically. Fun times.

 

[jimh406]

I don't think the studs would give better traction deep snow than chains mainly because they are a lot smaller.

Glad to hear your report, but you are a couple of weeks off. If you had been sooner, I would have have considered studs for my Polaris Ranger. This is the first year, I've considered chains for plowing on the Ranger.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I don't think the studs would give better traction deep snow than chains mainly because they are a lot smaller.

Glad to hear your report, but you are a couple of weeks off. If you had been sooner, I would have have considered studs for my Polaris Ranger. This is the first year, I've considered chains for plowing on the Ranger.

This thread brings back some painful memories. Late December 1970 I was preparing my 1962 Ford Falcon for a New Years Day trip and had purchased two new studdable snow tires and a DIY stud kit. The studs had mushroom heads which you pushed into the holes in the tires using a hollow tube on the end of a wooden handle. Blisters galore by the time I was donr but the tires performed like champs in the 3' of snow we got that day. Charleston WV to Washington DC was a bit over 300 miles and I made it in roughly 15 hours.....

Dan

 

[top gnome]

thank you for the idea and review. I would have never thought of studs for the front tires but I will now really consider it. Chains in rear and studs in front. great thank you

 

[mikester]

Little update here. I added shorter M6x18 studs in the rears, went with them because they were cheaper at $39.99/100. These shorter ones seem more wobbly to insert but they went in ok. One stud per lug on the center line of the tire, photo attached.

I've had a chance to use these low profile studs now in various snow conditions from deep wet packing snow, slush, powder snow, on and off road.

Overall I am very pleased with how well they are working, even in deep snow off road. Studding all four tires is definitely the way to go for best traction and steering. I am really surprised by how well these low profile studs have performed, much better than anticipated.

My tire chains will remain on the wall. I prefer these studs over my ladder chains 100 to 1, I think these low profile studs on all four tires are performing better than the ladder chains on my fronts only. If I was planning to drive through 2 feet of snow in the fields regularly I would probably want a set of euro chains with cleats, however, after using these low profile studs I think the deep profile MS1911's might do the trick.

For now these low profile ones are exceeding my expectations for the first season using them. At this point I give them a 10/10 overall for cost and performance.

Only time will tell how long they last and if I lose any in the driveway. I will try and remember to update this thread at the end of next season.

 

[Jchonline]

Little update here. I added shorter M6x18 studs in the rears, went with them because they were cheaper at $39.99/100. These shorter ones seem more wobbly to insert but they went in ok. One stud per lug on the center line of the tire, photo attached.

I've had a chance to use these low profile studs now in various snow conditions from deep wet packing snow, slush, powder snow, on and off road.

Overall I am very pleased with how well they are working, even in deep snow off road. Studding all four tires is definitely the way to go for best traction and steering. I am really surprised by how well these low profile studs have performed, much better than anticipated.

My tire chains will remain on the wall. I prefer these studs over my ladder chains 100 to 1, I think these low profile studs on all four tires are performing better than the ladder chains on my fronts only. If I was planning to drive through 2 feet of snow in the fields regularly I would probably want a set of euro chains with cleats, however, after using these low profile studs I think the deep profile MS1911's might do the trick.

For now these low profile ones are exceeding my expectations for the first season using them. At this point I give them a 10/10 overall for cost and performance.

Only time will tell how long they last and if I lose any in the driveway. I will try and remember to update this thread at the end of next season.

Very, very helpful Mike. I need to get something for the L6060 and always dread dealing with chains on larger tires. Chains on the RTV are about all I want to mess with every year. I am going to start with studs and see how it goes.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

My experience is that studs work excellent, I use Concreate screws as I have foam filled tires in the front so depth of crew was not an issue.

My observations:
I loose about 20 studs in a year, But I have a lot more studs than you used.
I get about 2 years on them, I also don't pull them out in the spring.
Yes steering and all other front traction is a HUGE improvement, and comfort and ride are excellent.
One thing I don't do, is drive them on hard surfaces, they will scratch and grove up a hard surface really fast!

 

[Tughill Tom]

Little update here. I added shorter M6x18 studs in the rears, went with them because they were cheaper at $39.99/100. These shorter ones seem more wobbly to insert but they went in ok. One stud per lug on the center line of the tire, photo attached.

I've had a chance to use these low profile studs now in various snow conditions from deep wet packing snow, slush, powder snow, on and off road.

Overall I am very pleased with how well they are working, even in deep snow off road. Studding all four tires is definitely the way to go for best traction and steering. I am really surprised by how well these low profile studs have performed, much better than anticipated.

My tire chains will remain on the wall. I prefer these studs over my ladder chains 100 to 1, I think these low profile studs on all four tires are performing better than the ladder chains on my fronts only. If I was planning to drive through 2 feet of snow in the fields regularly I would probably want a set of euro chains with cleats, however, after using these low profile studs I think the deep profile MS1911's might do the trick.

For now these low profile ones are exceeding my expectations for the first season using them. At this point I give them a 10/10 overall for cost and performance.

Only time will tell how long they last and if I lose any in the driveway. I will try and remember to update this thread at the end of next season.

I run two in each lug front and rear. In the past 9 years I've replaced mybe 30 and I run them all year running the roads to get to the upper property, the only part that fails is the carbide tip to date.

 

[Henro]

My experience is that studs work excellent, I use Concreate screws as I have foam filled tires in the front so depth of crew was not an issue.

My observations:
I loose about 20 studs in a year, But I have a lot more studs than you used.
I get about 2 years on them, I also don't pull them out in the spring.
Yes steering and all other front traction is a HUGE improvement, and comfort and ride are excellent.
One thing I don't do, is drive them on hard surfaces, they will scratch and grove up a hard surface really fast!

Curious, what do you do to replace a lost stud? Put it in a different place on the same lug? If so would this not eventually cause the lug to become weaker?

I think I am a chain guy in my mind...just wondering though....

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Little update here. I added shorter M6x18 studs in the rears, went with them because they were cheaper at $39.99/100. These shorter ones seem more wobbly to insert but they went in ok. One stud per lug on the center line of the tire, photo attached.

I've had a chance to use these low profile studs now in various snow conditions from deep wet packing snow, slush, powder snow, on and off road.

Overall I am very pleased with how well they are working, even in deep snow off road. Studding all four tires is definitely the way to go for best traction and steering. I am really surprised by how well these low profile studs have performed, much better than anticipated.

My tire chains will remain on the wall. I prefer these studs over my ladder chains 100 to 1, I think these low profile studs on all four tires are performing better than the ladder chains on my fronts only. If I was planning to drive through 2 feet of snow in the fields regularly I would probably want a set of euro chains with cleats, however, after using these low profile studs I think the deep profile MS1911's might do the trick.

For now these low profile ones are exceeding my expectations for the first season using them. At this point I give them a 10/10 overall for cost and performance.

Only time will tell how long they last and if I lose any in the driveway. I will try and remember to update this thread at the end of next season.

Do you think there is any harm in trying them? I have a concrete drive and really don’t want it it all scratched up or my floor for that matter. I normally handle snow removal with arc but sometimes it can’t very deep stuff and need the tractor to clean up piles. If not getting to happy with the throttle are you marking up the concrete at all? I have no experience with studs, but seem to think it is a fairly cheap option for very occasional use and no need to try to set the loaded wheels out, correct? Please advise. Thanks.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Curious, what do you do to replace a lost stud? Put it in a different place on the same lug? If so would this not eventually cause the lug to become weaker?

I think I am a chain guy in my mind...just wondering though....

If you were using regular studs I would say yes move them a bit.
My "studs are 1 1/2" long concrete screws, so installing them back in the same place is no issue.

 

[Jchonline]

If you were using regular studs I would say yes move them a bit.
My "studs are 1 1/2" long concrete screws, so installing them back in the same place is no issue.

What type of head do the have on them? Curious I may use the same.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

What type of head do the have on them? Curious I may use the same.

A very tall 5/16 hex head.
Remember I said my tires are solid Foam ( no air) so too long of a screw was no issue.
If you have air tires, look at shorter commercial made studs.