What was that saying?….”measure 398 times, cut once…..dumbass”

[Runs With Scissors]

I have two of the S190s, and the other shown is a shop-made one of similar size.
I find them to be perfect size; if you need them taller, just throw a chunk of stock or step blocks under them.
Or, if you're a purist, making extension blocks of any height is easy.
(note aluminum extension in my 2nd pic)
Stay away from cheapies, they tend to have coarse threads with sloppy fits, making adjustment difficult. (ask me how I know)
The finer the pitch, the easier the adjustment.
The ball joint and different shaped anvils are pretty handy for varied setups.
Put an indicator on the part if you need precision, makes it easier to see if it is supported or deflected upward.

I had a beautiful pair of tiny ones, 1" tall, 10-32 thread, case hardened finish, if I remember correctly, but I never used them in 25+ years of owning them, so I sold them to a collector for $75.

Thanks Bill,

I just ordered a complete Starrett 191 set. (1 jack with all the adaptors)

Should be here in a day or so.

Just like any/most other tools I have; You may not need it today, but when you gotta have it, it’s nice to be able to walk over and just grab it.

Hopefully one day, I will have the time to make myself one as well, but for now, it’s “The Big A” to the rescue…..

 

[Yooper]

The challenge I’m having is remembering all those tools/jigs/fixtures I have accumulated through the years that you don’t use very often. I prefer keeping things in drawers for neatness but out of sight out of mind applies here. I keep saying I need to go through the drawers on some kind of schedule but I never do…

 

[torch]

So is the way I have it considered “wrong”?

If so, I had no idea. I would have “bet the farm” that I had it right.

As a matter of fact, I thought that it should be angled MORE, so that the "angled flat tip” was flat on the part.

Thanks for the “heads up” ……..I will have to reevaluate my clamping techniques.

The way you have it is not "wrong" per se, just not ideal. Your clamp strap is sloping downward towards the work piece (sloping upward would be wrong). But if you look at the engagement of the heel steps to the block, they are not fully seated -- they can't be, they are on an arc, probably only making firm contact on one undercut step. To use the strap and a single block, the strap should be shimmed between the workpiece and the strap so it's at 90° to the block.

Using two blocks will still have the strap on a slope, but the point of contact will be the corner of the upper block, which is inherently stronger than the tiny edge of a step.

 

[Lil Foot]

The technique I use when clamping is to put the clamp bolt/stud as close to the part as practical, set the clamp on the step block horizontal, then lift the tail of the clamp one notch higher.
Sometimes this requires a shim, but I keep a bunch of 1" & 2" square aluminum shims (.040 to .125 thk) handy for "padding" parts with a finish I don't want to mar with clamping pressure.

 

[lynnmor]

So is the way I have it considered “wrong”?

If so, I had no idea. I would have “bet the farm” that I had it right.

As a matter of fact, I thought that it should be angled MORE, so that the "angled flat tip” was flat on the part.

Thanks for the “heads up” ……..I will have to reevaluate my clamping techniques.

Your clamping ain't bad, clamps get a smile over time and there is no perfect height, thus the steps in the blocks. On a setup like that it is very possible to skid the part as the clamp is tightened. Personally I would have held the part in a v-block that is clamped in a vise.

 

[lynnmor]

Sometimes this requires a shim, but I keep a bunch of 1" & 2" square aluminum shims (.040 to .125 thk) handy for "padding" parts with a finish I don't want to mar with clamping pressure.

I have aluminum scraps for that, often pennies are used since they are cheap.

 

[Sidekick]

I have some stainless peelable shim sheets that are handy for critical setups. Just cut the size you need and peel away. 002 layers to get the thickness needed.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

The way you have it is not "wrong" per se, just not ideal. Your clamp strap is sloping downward towards the work piece (sloping upward would be wrong). But if you look at the engagement of the heel steps to the block, they are not fully seated -- they can't be, they are on an arc, probably only making firm contact on one undercut step. To use the strap and a single block, the strap should be shimmed between the workpiece and the strap so it's at 90° to the block.

Using two blocks will still have the strap on a slope, but the point of contact will be the corner of the upper block, which is inherently stronger than the tiny edge of a step.

The technique I use when clamping is to put the clamp bolt/stud as close to the part as practical, set the clamp on the step block horizontal, then lift the tail of the clamp one notch higher.
Sometimes this requires a shim, but I keep a bunch of 1" & 2" square aluminum shims (.040 to .125 thk) handy for "padding" parts with a finish I don't want to mar with clamping pressure.

Your clamping ain't bad, clamps get a smile over time and there is no perfect height, thus the steps in the blocks. On a setup like that it is very possible to skid the part as the clamp is tightened. Personally I would have held the part in a v-block that is clamped in a vise.

Ahhhh….OK, I see what you guys are talking about.

I will keep this in mind.

This is a fun hobby, with a lot of “mental gymnastics”

Thank you gentlemen for taking the time to help out a “noob” with the tips.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I have aluminum scraps for that, often pennies are used since they are cheap.

Excellent idea sir…..never would have thought of it.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I have some stainless peelable shim sheets that are handy for critical setups. Just cut the size you need and peel away. 002 layers to get the thickness needed.

I just looked up some.

Apparantly they sell brass ones too.

I have been using old “feeler guages” so far, but having some “shim stock” is a good idea.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

I have been using old “feeler guages” so far, but having some “shim stock” is a good idea.

You can get band material in various thicknesses as well, just cut off what you need.

I use old electronics solder paste stencils for that. Stainless steel material with 0.100 to 0.150mm (0.004" to 0.006") thickness. There is always plenty of solid material without holes in it on the edge and you can cut out what you need. For use as spacers the holes don't even matter.

I just put a few in my stainless steel recycling bin and there is more to go. If you want I can post you a few, they fit nicely in an envelope.