Figured they would weigh more like cow s###Maybe because the weights are green?
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
I don’t have an L, by my Mx is pretty close in size and weight no? I have loaded tires and wheel weights….i would still want to use rear ballast doing loader work. The plates weren’t cheap but it’s a noticeable difference. I don’t think they are a substitute for weight off the back though…for what you look to be doing I would be thinking somewhere between 1200 and 1800ish lbs rear ballast…just my opinion.
The more I read the more it looks like weight on the three point is the way to go. I'm still getting a feel for the L over the LX. Lots of extra lift but as always, proper ballast is the key. I appreciate your insight.
I am not sure what terrain you are navigating, but imagine what happens if you front wheel drops in a hole and not enough rear ballast? My MX is helpless without ballast…how much weight would you estimate in your totes? I would think 2/3 (of what lifting on the front) off the rear would be a good start. On the upper limit I think you could imagine a BH as incredible ballast…BH92 approx 1800lbs.
Definitely. You want the same pressure on the rear wheels as before, I believe, so compensating for the front weight (1m^3 water, 1 tonne, 2000 pounds?) you will have to add much more weight at the wheel position (blue) than on the three point hitch (green).
Also weight on the three point hitch (or anywhere behind the wheels) takes load off the front axle, whereas weight on the rear wheels does not.
Another possibility is using the 700 pound weights and bringing them further back if you can.
p.s.: I just love your trailer
I think I have to build a smaller version of that for my garden tractor ...
nice. i use one of those to fill water troughs in the turnouts
Actually another thing: since you are watering you may not want too much weight at the back either. When the water container is empty you have practically no weight at the front. Weight on the rear wheels would not matter but weight on the three point and possibly further away would reduce the front axle weight. Your loader is probably heavy enough, but wanted to point it out.
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The yard is flat. I'm hoping the tote is a temporary measure for at most another month. It's a 250 U.S. gallon tote. Probably 200-220 gallons so approximately 1850-1900lbs. The frame and bladder would be about another 135lbs.
Without the heavy hitch and extra weights I was surprised that the rear end still felt light.Definitely. You want the same pressure on the rear wheels as before, I believe, so compensating for the front weight (1m^3 water, 1 tonne, 2000 pounds?) you will have to add much more weight at the wheel position (blue) than on the three point hitch (green).
Also weight on the three point hitch (or anywhere behind the wheels) takes load off the front axle, whereas weight on the rear wheels does not.
Another possibility is using the 700 pound weights and bringing them further back if you can.
View attachment 161301
p.s.: I just love your trailer
I think I have to build a smaller version of that for my garden tractor ...
I really like the trailer. Wish it was a bit bigger for the L. I may add some brackets and side-boards sometime unless I trade up to something larger.
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Got the first real use of the excavator today digging out stumps. Once I had the stump out the excavator was pretty light when swinging the load off to the side. The lx picked it up with no trouble to take it to it's final resting spot.
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The tote is more of a test for the tractor and loader. Eventually, I will be unloading freight for my business out of tractor trailers. Max weight would probably be in the 1200-1400lb range. Heavier skids would be on my 20' tiltdeck trailer that jas a deck height of about 36". These skids would be 2525lbs. I highly doubt I can pick those up without removing a few rows of product.
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Yes, for your size tractor it could be bigger, but apart from that everything looks just right to me. The dual axle, the wheels not outside (ok, centre of gravity is a bit higher), the proportions, just beautiful. And, last but not least: the right colour
I found a picture of a 3 ton like mine and a 5 ton side by side. Quite a difference in size and price.Yes, for your size tractor it could be bigger, but apart from that everything looks just right to me. The dual axle, the wheels not outside (ok, centre of gravity is a bit higher), the proportions, just beautiful. And, last but not least: the right colour
I really like the trailer you have and the ones pictured.
are you just watering trees until they get roots to ground, or will this continue for years to come?
If planning to water for years to come, I’d politely suggest / inquire have you considered keeping current trailer and adding an actual watertank trailer/wagon?
not sure you that would be helpful or not or how long plan to water in, but that’s a pretty sweet trailer you have already.
While filled tires or wheel weights "might" help keep your rear tires on the ground ... They do nothing to actually balance the tractor, or prevent overloading the front axle, there needs to be rear ballast on the 3 point, almost as much as your wanting to lift ... Here is a recent thread that goes into much more detail, even an example using scales and different scenarios ... https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bx-owners-chime-in.76745/
In that thread I show my watering rig, which I use a ballast box and a rear hitch to pull the trailer, I need the ballast box to offset the load on the forks, as the tongue weight isn't nearly enough ...
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Somehow reminds me of a Jeff Foxworthy scenario. “If you hang your pool-in-a-box from your tractor loader at the end of the season to wash the red clay off…”
Next time ... Try securing it to the tips of the forks .. then, tip/roll the forks back until the are pointed straight up