Bucket hooks. Would like to put a set of bucket hooks on bx23s, quick connect bucket. Looks like kens are the best, but don't know if I can stomach the $58.00 us shipping. Is there a canadian option?
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
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I have Ken's. Good stuff, easy to install. If you get them, mount them as closely in line with the knuckles of the boom and SSQA plate as you can. That will help prevent making your bucket 'smile'. I originally put the hooks on top of the bucket and D-Rings in the bottom of the bucket, but found I rarely used the D-Rings down there because the bucket edge was always in the way. So, I moved the D-Rings to be the backing plates for the hooks, and just closed the holes in the bucket with the two sets of backing plates. It sure makes lifting things with a chain a lot safer and easier.
I was doing some grading today with the tractor trying to fix a spot that keeps collecting water, it was basically turning into a pond. Filled it in and graded it the best I could, but need to let it dry for a bit and then do some more later. Eventually I'll get the run off to go where I want it too. There is drainage there plus a French drain but its such a a low spot that it gets overwhelmed so I'm hoping by grading it and filling in that low spot it will allow the water to drain better into a swale. Well that's the goal anyways.
While I was playing with the tractor, I made a friend.
While I was playing with the tractor, I made a friend.
Exactly what I said after getting mine. Why the heck didn’t I get it sooner.
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Outnumbered
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L3901, FEL, BB1260, RCF2060, FDR2572, Forks, 55" Grapple, 5' Tiller .....
It was a busy day for my Orange wheel barrow. Cut about 2 acres with the finish mower, then tilled my food plot which I will plant in a few weeks and then put the middle buster on to dig the potatoes out of my garden. Great day to be outside!
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RCW
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Not a Kubota project, but for several years had a couple kids do some of the trimming I can’t do well anymore.
Their parents were always appreciative that I would show them how to operate the brush cutters I have (using 0.105” trimmer line).
We’ve been inundated with rain lately.
Finally got the boys in for some knock-down. Stuff was really overgrown.
Hot morning, so we focused on certain areas.
Did a decent job and got a bonus in pay for their high school graduation.
Good boys with great work ethic.
Will have them back in a few weeks for cleanup.
Their parents were always appreciative that I would show them how to operate the brush cutters I have (using 0.105” trimmer line).
We’ve been inundated with rain lately.
Finally got the boys in for some knock-down. Stuff was really overgrown.
Hot morning, so we focused on certain areas.
Did a decent job and got a bonus in pay for their high school graduation.
Good boys with great work ethic.
Will have them back in a few weeks for cleanup.
Last edited:
dirtydeed
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
I have a 53" flail (with hammers) behind essentially the same tractor as yours. It handles it without issue and can easily over rev in most material.
My suggestion would be to look for something in the 60-62" range. Flails are much easier to turn than a rotary cutter.
Weather was nice today, as in not raining and no heat advisory. Got some tractor therapy in, more mowing! Hit 70+ hours on my L3902. Still have not had a regen yet. Not sure if this is normal? No issues, still love the tractor.
There's a motocross track hidden in there somewhere. Braaap!
There's a motocross track hidden in there somewhere. Braaap!
Then I turned the compost. I'm still in the beginner experimental phase. Added more greens, lawn clippings and weeds from garden. Then turned with bucket. Not sure how soon I should turn it again. Think I'll give it a week or two?
You can now see the security fence I installed in the front to keep animals out.
You can now see the security fence I installed in the front to keep animals out.
Good day.
Assuming the pile is moist, probably turn it every 3 days or so if wanting it to be hot/compost faster. (Ideally it should be aerated and kept moist).
Thanks, I appreciate all your advice! I've only turned it twice this year. I'll definitely turn it more often now.Good day.
Assuming the pile is moist, probably turn it every 3 days or so if wanting it to be hot/compost faster. (Ideally it should be aerated and kept moist).
To my knowledge there is nothing wrong with cold composting…it may take 6 months or longer.
depending on what putting in the pile, the hot method should kill seeds in the areas of the pile it gets hot enough.
I have a similar bin set up with pallets…I’ve found my forks to work really well to aerate the pile. (If not careful or too happy with the throttle, forks best pallets every time
) Just before rain is a great time to loosen it up so when it rains it can filter in a little easier. Give it 3 or so days and aerate again…assume you have both browns and greens in there it will heat up and compost a bit quicker…if you want it faster.
If by "easier to turn" you mean more maneuverable, yeah, that's a no brainer. A 5' rotary cutter is gonna stick out behind the tractor nearly 8 feet adding in the rear support wheel and whatever offset there is in the 3 point hitch. Not a good combination in an area with lots of large trees. I was thinking 60" as well, but watched a video of a 60" behind the very same tractor I have. Mind you, it was very thick and heavy grass they were cutting which would certainly put a lot more drag on the drum than more sparse viney stuff and shaded grass, but mostly knee high poison ivy in the spring. I'm more interested in the mulching capabilities of the flail on all the deadfall from the trees. Picking up the sticks and deadfall before mowing has always been the worst part of the chore. Then, I have to put the chipper on the tractor to chew them up, or drag the little one out if I don't have anything big enough to warrant the work to put the WC68 on the tractor. It just makes a lot more work to be able to cut back there with what I have (24" Swisher Raptor). Hitting the sticks with the Swisher most generally causes some bone jarring vibration, or one gets under a wheel and body slams you into the nearest tree. There's also stump holes from many years of dead pines rotting out, or big mounds from blown over trees that make the Swisher Drag-Behind (they call it a walk-behind) a bit much for an old guy. I was in my 40's when I got it and could handle it a lot better before I destroyed my rotator cuffs and all the cartilage in my back dried up. I'm pretty much crippled for the next two days after using that beast.
I'm learning that Flails don't sell well enough in this area for anyone to keep them in stock. I've even called some places that sell nothing but tractor implements (no tractors) and used equipment places. Something tells me that anyone who buys a flail hangs on to it. Looks like I'm going to order one and have it delivered. Hopefully it doesn't get beat up by freight monkeys before I see it.
I had a bunch of cinder blocks from a building that my son-in-law tore down at work, so I built two pits with that. Just stacked them two courses high and interleaved them to keep it from falling over. I knock one over once in a while if I use the bucket to stir the heap. We put all our garden/kitchen waste in there that we can't/won't give to the chickens.To my knowledge there is nothing wrong with cold composting…it may take 6 months or longer.
depending on what putting in the pile, the hot method should kill seeds in the areas of the pile it gets hot enough.
I have a similar bin set up with pallets…I’ve found my forks to work really well to aerate the pile. (If not careful or too happy with the throttle, forks best pallets every time
We also put the chicken poop in there to help speed up the decay with ammonia and provide tons of nitrogen. I built a tray under the roosts to catch about 50% of their poop, and we line that with barn lime (not agricultural lime). Makes it easy to clean the tray and helps keep the odor down both in the coop and the compost heaps, as well as adds a little bit of grit to help keep it from being packy/sticky.
I turn mine about once a month. Most of the time it's because things growing in it tell me it's time to turn it. If I leave it more than a few weeks, I see volunteer tomato plants or pumpkins/squash growing in the heap that we haven't put anything in for at least 6 months. As for killing the seeds, uprooting or burying them when I turn the heap seems to do a pretty good job of that. I typically use the grapple to break it up and loosen it. Got a pit that needs to be stockpiled now and start it over with a layer of wood chips in the bottom. I rotate them when they get full by stockpiling the 'finished' compost and switching which pit we dump the scraps in. I don't put grass clipping in our pit because it would fill up entirely too fast. I would need a MUCH larger pair of pits. They're about 10 x 10 now. I've been doing this for several years now and using the end product to improve the soil in our flower beds and veggie garden. It takes a little less fertilizer by using compost, but doesn't completely eliminate it.
Old Machinist
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
I used regular old forged hooks, cut the back leg off and welded them on my JD. No issues with strength.
Old Machinist
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX3310 cab, JD 4310, NH 575E cab backhoe, JD F725, Swisher 60", etc.
Mowing is a constant. I figured out a cheap way to stay cool and cut a 10 foot path.
