Russell King
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
What did you do to or on your Kubota today?
- Thread starter gurn
- Start date
The MX6000 now has some M6060 DNA in it! I'll get to that in a bit.
This afternoon I made another change to the support bracket that holds the 3X multiplier on the MX (can you see it?). An aesthetic change with no loss of function and I like it. I spent a lot of time this morning looking for a 7/8-14 bolt, die or thread rod so that I could make an adapter for the Scorpion control grip, but no luck. I went to ACE Hardware, looked at Lowes, Home Depot, a local farm strore, Autozone, O'Reilly's and then finally had the thought to call NAPA and see if they had a drain plug with 7/8-14 threads, and they did!
First up was to remove the rearmost remote lever in the cab by disconnecting it from the valve body under the tractor. It was a bit of a pain getting it out. I modified the drain plug by welding it to the short stub that I cut off the M6060 rear remote control lever (hence the DNA comment). I also rounded the corners to turn the hex head into a more attractive circular profile. I drilled some holes through the lever and the stub, and tapped 1/4-28 threads into the M6060 stub and got everything installed. I'll say this without any hesitation. The Scorpion control grip on the rearmost remote control lever is an absolute game changer. It's up there with top-n-tilt and adding a real door handle to the right side door. That lever has always been awkward to use given its location, but now with the control grip it's in such a good spot being easy to reach and to operate.
I also removed the factory cigarette lighter, opened up the hole a bit and installed another dual USB outlet which is an upgrade that I should have done 3-1/2 years ago. But it's done now, and tomorrow I'll complete the wiring in the cab to connect the control grip to the multiplier, and wire the USB port and run +12V and ground from the USB to supply power to the solenoids. It's a 15A circuit so no worries there. I ordered and received some Molex connectors and a kit to do a nice job of crimping on the pins. I can now complete the M6060 Summit Hydraulics install as well as the MX. The MX is the priority since I want to get the flail on ASAP.
I should have the multiplier connected to the flail tomorrow afternoon. For the first time I'll be able to run top-n-tilt off the rear remotes #1 and #2 (float), and then run the flail off the multiplier and control grip using rear remote #3 to supply oil to the cylinders on the flail at the push of a button and by moving the control lever in the appropriate direction. The control grip has a trigger as well i.e. I can control the three pairs of rear remotes on the multiplier. I have 5 pairs of remotes now but I won't need the 5th ciruit to run the flail, I just need four.
Here are some photos from today's progress.
This afternoon I made another change to the support bracket that holds the 3X multiplier on the MX (can you see it?). An aesthetic change with no loss of function and I like it. I spent a lot of time this morning looking for a 7/8-14 bolt, die or thread rod so that I could make an adapter for the Scorpion control grip, but no luck. I went to ACE Hardware, looked at Lowes, Home Depot, a local farm strore, Autozone, O'Reilly's and then finally had the thought to call NAPA and see if they had a drain plug with 7/8-14 threads, and they did!
First up was to remove the rearmost remote lever in the cab by disconnecting it from the valve body under the tractor. It was a bit of a pain getting it out. I modified the drain plug by welding it to the short stub that I cut off the M6060 rear remote control lever (hence the DNA comment). I also rounded the corners to turn the hex head into a more attractive circular profile. I drilled some holes through the lever and the stub, and tapped 1/4-28 threads into the M6060 stub and got everything installed. I'll say this without any hesitation. The Scorpion control grip on the rearmost remote control lever is an absolute game changer. It's up there with top-n-tilt and adding a real door handle to the right side door. That lever has always been awkward to use given its location, but now with the control grip it's in such a good spot being easy to reach and to operate.
I also removed the factory cigarette lighter, opened up the hole a bit and installed another dual USB outlet which is an upgrade that I should have done 3-1/2 years ago. But it's done now, and tomorrow I'll complete the wiring in the cab to connect the control grip to the multiplier, and wire the USB port and run +12V and ground from the USB to supply power to the solenoids. It's a 15A circuit so no worries there. I ordered and received some Molex connectors and a kit to do a nice job of crimping on the pins. I can now complete the M6060 Summit Hydraulics install as well as the MX. The MX is the priority since I want to get the flail on ASAP.
I should have the multiplier connected to the flail tomorrow afternoon. For the first time I'll be able to run top-n-tilt off the rear remotes #1 and #2 (float), and then run the flail off the multiplier and control grip using rear remote #3 to supply oil to the cylinders on the flail at the push of a button and by moving the control lever in the appropriate direction. The control grip has a trigger as well i.e. I can control the three pairs of rear remotes on the multiplier. I have 5 pairs of remotes now but I won't need the 5th ciruit to run the flail, I just need four.
Here are some photos from today's progress.
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The reservoir comes with two pumps for front and rear wipers, which adds to the cost. It's a stupid mistake and a waste of $250, but I won't do it again, and at the end of the day I'll only be happy if I get a new Kubota one. The order has already been placed along with an order for the M6060 trailer outlet bracket that I'll install on the MX.
I always enjoy your photos, and have to remind myself that you're on the Eastern side of Canada and not somewhere around Vancouver, BC. So how long does it take you to cut 10 acres? It must be really enjoyable running down and back on that piece of property. Talk about instant gratification.
An air-conditioned cab, music playing, a cup of coffee, sunglasses on and away we go.
I say about two hours on this part. It should of been done a week ago but it was a wet week. Low range was needed in this section. I was never a fan of mowing grass but now I find it relaxing because im not dealing with people and I don't have to think.I always enjoy your photos, and have to remind myself that you're on the Eastern side of Canada and not somewhere around Vancouver, BC. So how long does it take you to cut 10 acres? It must be really enjoyable running down and back on that piece of property. Talk about instant gratification.
I'd be tempted to add auto steer with mapping if I had that property. Just another way to play at being a farmer.
johnjk
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B3200 w/loader, Woods RC5 brush hog, 4' box blade, tooth bar, B1700 MMM,
Sunday morning swamping. Attempted to get the perimeter trails opened. Was around 40% successful
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First mow of the year. We need some rain for sure. Better than pushing snow 
Attachments
stay away from anything vevor. their chains and binders are peanut butter. from what i understanf they are facing 2 lawsuits for wrongful death from chains breaking
Peerless chain. Order it from Zoro. Create an account first and wait 5 minutes you will receive a discount code. USA made chain is not cheap. It's a buy once, cry once thing. I would recommend grade 100 then you can use it for anything. The difference between 80 and 100 is really small.
dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
I finished up the Summit Hydraulics install on the MX yesterday and got the flail on and tested before it was dark. I'll definitely be ordering some flow restrictors from @Kennyd4110 to slow down the boom and head rotation functions on the flail. I'll have to figure out what I have in terms of fittings, and what I need, but plan to install four restrictors, with one for both sides of the two cylinders that are on the flail. I need to get another set of hoses made up for the MX, but for testing purposes I used the hoses from the M6060 installation. I think I'll get the MX hoses made up about 6" longer than the pair shown below.
Speaking of the flail, I'm going to modify the flail a little more and cut off the hose retainers on the 3-point frame and weld on much improved retainers. I'm motivated now since the hoses are a little "short" but that'll change after the upgrades.
This project was fairly involved and made more complex by the addition of the Scorpion control grip, but well worth it. From this point forward I won't have to give up either of the hydaulic top-n-tilt functions on either tractor in order to control adjustments on the flail, snow blower or rear blade. The control grip will really be nice when running the snow blower with chute rotation and deflector angle controlled by the same lever via one of two buttons. I also really like the trigger on the control grip. It's a very different motor control movement so useful if delineating between very different functions, particularly if there's a chance that incorrect operation of an implement might be an issue.
Speaking of the flail, I'm going to modify the flail a little more and cut off the hose retainers on the 3-point frame and weld on much improved retainers. I'm motivated now since the hoses are a little "short" but that'll change after the upgrades.
This project was fairly involved and made more complex by the addition of the Scorpion control grip, but well worth it. From this point forward I won't have to give up either of the hydaulic top-n-tilt functions on either tractor in order to control adjustments on the flail, snow blower or rear blade. The control grip will really be nice when running the snow blower with chute rotation and deflector angle controlled by the same lever via one of two buttons. I also really like the trigger on the control grip. It's a very different motor control movement so useful if delineating between very different functions, particularly if there's a chance that incorrect operation of an implement might be an issue.
By the way, I found out that blue Loctite and cheap Chinese USB ports don't play well together. This gave me the excuse I needed to order a pair of Blue Sea Systems USB ports. I've bought a lot of stuff from them and they make excellent products.
In case you're wondering, I put some Loctite on the threads of the housing to prevent the plastic lock screw from loosening. I'm fairly sure that I've done that in the past without any issues, but I won't be doing it again. I should have used RTV or similar, or nothing at all.
This gave me the excuse I needed to order a pair of Blue Sea Systems USB ports. I've bought a lot of stuff from them and they make excellent products.In case you're wondering, I put some Loctite on the threads of the housing to prevent the plastic lock screw from loosening. I'm fairly sure that I've done that in the past without any issues, but I won't be doing it again. I should have used RTV or similar, or nothing at all.
dirtydeed
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
I'll throw one more source out there that I use for most of my chains/binders etc. I've been using them for years.
just finished installing hydraulic thumb on my bh92. getting that foot pedal installed correctly was the hardest part.
but when i extended out the cylinder there us an errant oring i need to consult the kubota dealer about.
but when i extended out the cylinder there us an errant oring i need to consult the kubota dealer about.
Bmyers
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
If I remember correctly, that is on there as part of the paint process. I'm sure one of the gentleman with way more knowledge than me will be able to let us both know if I'm remembering correctly.
Yep! You nailed it.
The o-ring prevents paint from getting on the dust seal.
@Kennyd4110, it looks like my Del Morino flail uses 1/4"-18 NPSM fittings but I'm not seeing that option for flow restrictors on your website. The hoses are 1/4" too.
I'll take a look at the fittings on the cylinders, but does the 1/2" ORB/SAE restrictor thread into the Summit Hydraulics multiplier? If it does, I could add four or even six of those between the Summit Hydraulics multiplier and the AGP12F-08S 1/2" couplers.
I'll take a look at the fittings on the cylinders, but does the 1/2" ORB/SAE restrictor thread into the Summit Hydraulics multiplier? If it does, I could add four or even six of those between the Summit Hydraulics multiplier and the AGP12F-08S 1/2" couplers.
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