Utility trailers

[Missouribound]

I am looking to purchase a utility trailer to replace my enclosed cargo trailer.
I need something for lumber and other larger items. I also want to be able to get some gravel or dirt for projects around the home. My real concern is weight capability.
The trailers I am looking at have a 2900# GWV. That is certainly enough to haul my Kubota 2320 or my mini X or side by side. But that number....2900#. Is that realistic?
Considering how the trailer is built, the solid floor and structure, would it be unrealistic to expect it to handle 3500# for short distances?
I've considered a tandem axle trailer as well, but for my use I think that paying twice as much for one of those trailers wouldn't be a wise investment.
Anyone with a single axle trailer utilizing it for more than its "rated' capacity?
My cargo trailer was bought when I was doing a lot of handyman work and a dry place to transport and store tools was a necessity. I'm not doing as much of that and I have purchased a larger truck that can haul nearly all of what I carried in the cargo trailer. But now it sits and is used once or twice in the last 6 months.
It's time to get a trailer that I can utilize more often.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Bee-Positive]

You can buy single axle trailers rated up to 5,000 lbs.

 

[Sawburner]

I bought a single axle dump trailer rated at 5842 GVWR trailer weighs 1354# gives you over 4488# of capacity, from Cross Country Mfg. built local to me and good quality. I use the dump more then I thought it will save a lot of work if you will be hauling dirt, gravel, fire wood, horse $hit among other things.

 

[Motion]

It's nice to have multiple trailers if you have space for them. It's like going to play golf with one club.

 

[D2Cat]

It's nice to have multiple trailers if you have space for them. It's like going to play golf with one club.

I agree. From a small 5x10 tilt bed to a 16' gooseneck dump to a 20' tilt. Just like a woman buying shoes, I have 6 trailers !!

 

[GeoHorn]

Don’t “skimp” on trailer capacity.

Only takes ONE blow-out ..to ruin YOUR day…. and MAKE a lawyers’.

(Tire capacity is as important at trailer capacity…. and if you get caught on a Federal Highway using an under-rated trailer…. )

 

[jspicerreachnet]

In Ontario you must have trailer brakes over 2,950 lbs total weight, single or double axle. So if you decide bite the bullet and have brakes then no brainer to have double axle with increased load capacity

 

[JonM]

be aware that the weight of your trailer counts as part of your total. as an example, so if you have a 2900# gvwr and the trailer weighs 400# you can only put 2500# on it as cargo. dont go over weight. very bad things happen very quickly when over loaded. your gvwr is not your cargo rating.

 

[Captain13]

Hauling more than rated capacity has some risk. Here in Georgia, you can be weighed and put Out of service if you excede the GVWR. Then there is a fine. Also, exceeding capacity not only can damage your axles, but you can also brake the trailer tongue while loaded, depending on how your trailer is built. Finally, if you are involved in an accident and have exceeded your trailer’s capacity, there may be some liability there.

 

[cliffboyer]

I've got two.

5x10, single 3500lb axle, no brakes, wood floor, tilt ramp. Removable sides & fenders. Use for mulch, firewood, mower. PJ brand and well made. Guessing around 800 lbs empty. A base model 4 cylinder manual Tacoma pulls it just fine, just mind your P's & Q's when stopping (loaded or not).

The other is an 30 year old 7'x18' tandem, 7ķ lb 8-lug axles, brakes on both. Cornpro brand and very heavy duty with self storing ramps. Empty it's pushing 3000 pounds. Original wood deck periodically coated with used oil. Hauled everything I've needed it too....tractors, lumber/RR ties, vehicles, SXS, scrap metal. My 1997 3/4 ton Suburban has never felt taxed when pulling.

Buy more trailer than you need, but not more than tow platform can handle when fully loaded. Stake pockets are a must. Don't skimp on straps or chains & binders. Always carry a spare tire. Mesh decks suck.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

A lot of it just “depends” I guess……I mean if I was towing something 2500 feet to my neighbors, I would be much less concerned than if I was towing something 3 miles down the freeway…..(still a short run, just more risky)


One thing that I did this weekend was a “combat mod”….

I was picking up some lumber and as I was loading it, I realized I ain’t 21 no more…that sh1t is heavy…..so I loaded it in such a manner that I could use my forks to offload it...

Here is the before pic.





A few seconds with the “Sawz-All” and BAM!!!!!!!





Soon after I bought this trailer, I realized I hated those damn rails…..I never attach anything to them, but they are always getting in the way…

No more of that crap.

Best “mod" I have done in a long time.

 

[GeoHorn]

The only thing that “pops” into mind is…those rails provide support against “bending” moment.

Some pins to re-insert into removable rails might be an idea…

Also, I tired of rotten lumber flooring….so installed steel C-purlins instead of 2x8’s…. welded at/to the cross-supports. (No…they aren’t slippery…but if you really worry about such matters, add or spot-weld expanded metal treads or paint Line-X on ‘em. )

 

[jaxs]

I wouldn't consider anything with single axle. It's not all about carrying capacity, single axle leaves no room for error with load distribution,weave,bounce and wobble more than tandem on poorly maintained roads. It's easier and safer leaving load on tandem while unhooked from tow vehicle and a number of other considerations. Single axle with 5k gwv costs nearl the same as tandem axle with 7k gvw. A $6k tandem axle,7k gvw ,10'x5' dump checks all the boxes. A flatbed at less than half that price can do it all with some RWS engineering.
If you wind up buying something other than dump, look at THIS or one similar for unloading dirt and mulch.

 

[jaxs]

The only thing that “pops” into mind is…those rails provide support against “bending” moment.

Some pins to re-insert into removable rails might be an idea…

Also, I tired of rotten lumber flooring….so installed steel C-purlins instead of 2x8’s…. welded at/to the cross-supports. (No…they aren’t slippery…but if you really worry about such matters, add or spot-weld expanded metal treads or paint Line-X on ‘em. )

My SIL modified his trailer with removable rails and frame warped under heavy load.
So did I. And I was stumped as to why floor in a trailer bought in 1980 was soilid as day it was new (still is). If given option, I've paid extra for treated floor but they rotted anyway. I did research and found EPA had banned several treatment chemicals since 1980 (CCA being most interest to average Joes). I put feelers out for old wood decks in need of demolition and with help from grandsons, acquired a stash I'm still drawing from today. It's easy telling difference to modern treated wood. EPA approved lumber is twisted within 3 years if screwed down withing 24 hours of cutting band. Buy a load,bring it home and store until needed and it will twist in as little as a week. The "good stuff" remains flat and solid after decades.

For benefit of those with plenty money not willing to get hands dirty, new material is available for special uses, nothing residential is special. I doubt trailer bed would qualify either so the rest is up to you.